Hi Guys,

I recently had a new front tire mounted and balanced(Avon Storm 2 Ultra). Now, a week later, I noticed that the handle bars are not on center when I'm going in a straight line. I also have a shake if I take one hand off while going anywhere between 40-60. I'm guessing the shake is from a bad balance, but could this also cause the off center condition? Any thoughts or suggestions?

I remember this little nub being aligned to the rib in the casting when going straight.
I have 3 weights on the front. The one circled in blue is large and sits off the side of the bead it clips to. The other two straddle the bead.

* Last updated by: redtrace on 6/20/2010 @ 12:07 PM *

Well that's not okay!WTF's goin on?How could the wheel be in there crooked?

Did the bike fall off the stand while you were putting on the tire! Just kidding, your triple clamps are loose and your forks came out of alignment during the tire install, are you a mechanic If not take it some where and have it fixed.

The decel wobble may be the tire itself. When I do tires and have that problem I recheck the balance 1st. If that is not the problem I keep a test tire that I know is good and try it to see if the problem goes away. I know this sounds funny but some bike just don't like certain types of tires.
ZZR board had that problem with a few bikes. They could take the front tire off and put it on my ZRX and I had no problem then my test tire goes on a ZZR and they have no problem. Like I say it sounds funny but it happens.

Let us know what fixes it just in case one of us have that problem.

Thanks for that post Red....I really never thought about the frontend "being offcenter"...so that's a good tip to know.Hope you'll get er sorted real quick...surely couldn't be something TOO serious I hope?Sounds like someone moved the triple tree some way...maybe when they "removed" the calipers to replace the front tire?IDK.Balance shouldn't case an alignment situation.??????????????They shouldn't be touching the triple tree bolts at all.Perhaps you could reach under there and see if they've been tightened down(the lower ones)...I would.Or see if there's any dust marks where they"may" have been sitting before this?Weird...not cool at all.Are you SURE the angle that you're looking at the ignition/nib alignment is the same position?To me it looks off "to the side" but straight(almost) with the meter bracket post.There's no way that it could get "off to the side"...being in the bearing head and all.What happened when you took your hands off the bars,did it go straight,even with the wiggle?And where was the nib then?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/21/2010 @ 2:02 PM *

Unfortunately, I don't have a lift to remove the front wheel so I rely on a mechanic to do my tire changes. The bike does track straight, even with the wooble. Just that center nub is clearly off to the side. I will get up there and check for triple tree tightness and check torque on all tire change related bolts. I'll post my findings if i get it solved.

Seems as though you ought to be able to measure the height each fork protrudes above the top of the triple tree -- you know, where the top of the forks are looking right up at you on your clipons. If they are not the same height, perhaps one is loose and got pushed a bit higher under the weight. Yikes. Better check torque on those fork clamps. Lemme know if you need specs. Hope it's not a bent fork. That would be my other guess. You may be able to have your steering tuned to compensate for that.

I will get up there and check for triple tree tightness and check torque on all tire change related bolts. I'll post my findings if i get it solved.

Pinch bolts and axle nut for wheel. Four bolts for axle clamps. You should be able to check all without lifting the front but obviously you would not want to loosen the fork clamps without all weight taken off the front. Depending on the angle the flats of the bolts happen to be at, you may need to remove the top fairing (with headlights) to get a wrench on the top 2 fork clamp bolts.

I found my fork clamps were undertorqued from factory. I checked them because I started to get a wheelie now and then.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/21/2010 @ 4:26 PM *

Thanks for the info Rook.

I checked the upper clamp bolts and I was surprised that I could easily put another 3/4 turn on them. The bike has not been down and I don't intentionally wheelie...other than those 3-4" skimmers you get from high rev shifting. Looks like I'll have to pull the plastics and start taking measurements. I do have an anchor point on a 2x8 that runs across my garage. I can support the frontend weight with straps when I make my adjustments.

If you haven't done so in the past, I would highly recommend checking the torque of the clamp bolts.

If you haven't done so in the past, I would highly recommend checking the torque of the clamp bolts.

+1 My lower clamp bolts were way loose.

I do have an anchor point on a 2x8 that runs across my garage. I can support the frontend weight with straps when I make my adjustments.

I used a single nylon strap (think it was rated for 600 lbs) slung under the air box to check steering play. The air box is a part of the frame and it is a strong, safe place to hang the front of the bike while the back is supported on a rear stand.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/21/2010 @ 9:46 PM *

The weight on the wheel seems a lot. But then again, we do not have that lightweight tire that came with the bike. That tire took less weight to balance, remember. And yes, that tire is out of balance, you have a wobble on a new tire. Maybe spin the tire 180 or 90° to remove some excess lead weight.

Front end not lining up is caused by that tire change. It did not work out well for that mechanic. That's a 'comeback' with the front all out of alignment.

I'm ignorant about alignment deals...but just HOW does a front wheel get cocked away from center by removing the wheel?It just decides it's going to move on it's own?Never heard of such a thing.I mean,you remove the calipers,loosen the pinch bolts,remove the axle nut....pull wheel straight down and out...yes?This wheel being angled off "straight on" thing is quite interesting. Did the mechanic turn the bars all the way to the stops and then slam the front wheel a tad further...to get it to do.....what?It can't move if the fork clamps are secure,right?Sorry...I'm just not getting this one.The picture to me looks like they're straight(the only thing I'm seein is the picture angle is not dead center over the ignition /key area)(which would make it appear "off" dead center(which is not possible))But the two "lines"...the one in the bracket,and the nib...they look parallel/straight(to me).

This is gonna be a really dumb question...okay,so bear with me.Just fer shits and giggles Red....HOW do you know you're looking at the "alignment" at the right angle(straight down above the ignition /key) everytime you look at it.If you slightly move right or left,it's gonna appear "offcenter"...but that's not what you're talking about,right?.The nib looks lined up TO ME as far as "straightness" with the casting is concerned.Turn yer key there to the "on" position.Then check the two "lines"I'm thinkin they're gonna be perfectly aligned...the key itself and the casting line...IF you're looking exactly straight down on em.And the nib will be aligned with the key as well.It's an optical illusion.Nothing wrong with yer forks that I see.Camera angle...that's what yer seeing.IT CAN'T BE OFFCENTER.Yer not straight above the three points.

HOW does removing the wheel cause the reinstall to be "turned" off to one side?'Splain this to me anyone?It could only get "tweaked" if something MADE it go that way.Something pretty forceful I'd say(with my limited knowledge).

I'm only sayin....listen,I dumped my baby at 50 MPH and by God,the frontend smacked the ground several times(to the stops right and left) before it highsided.No "readjustments" of the forks needed.The front wheel position remained straight with the rear wheel(after it was all said and done).So I'm a tad skeptical about this "wheel removal" causing a wheel to go "off straight".Not sayin it can't....just not seein it,that's all.The only way I COULD see the wheel turning off right or left is if the triple tree,lower fork bolts were loosened,and the forks forced off the axis.Did your mechanic do that?(and WHY would he?)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2010 @ 1:15 AM *

My guess is the bolts were never checked at the first service. He needs to get it set back up using the manual and have the wheel check balanced again, something don't look right with the weights on that wheel. I would say that the people that did the work for him should not touch his bike again!

watch this vid it will show you how to align your suspension back up(start vid at 3:40 min into it)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFV7ZJrORWw

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 6/22/2010 @ 7:50 AM *

get rid of the wheel weights buy you some dnyna-beads, best cheap mod you can do. with the weights id still have a slight shimmy at high speeds the beads eliminated that

HOW do you know you're looking at the "alignment" at the right angle(straight down above the ignition /key) everytime you look at it.If you slightly move right or left,it's gonna appear "offcenter"

I just noticed but it does appear that you have the camera situated to the left just a bit. That could be the reason I see a bit more of the speedo on the left than I do the tach in the right. HAve another look at that rib and that nub to make sure they are really off center. (How the heck are you going to do that while the bike is rolling to compare the orientation of the front wheel tracking to the nub and rib alignment???) If the wheel tracking is so seriously crooked that you are able to notice while observing the nub and rib simultaneously, i would say there must definitely be a wheel alignment problem.

Maybe all is well with the alignment and the shake in the steering is making you chase red herrings?? Maybe take a close look again at your nub/rib/tracking to determine if it is really possible to even compare all of those with the bike moving. I'm curious. I Use the nub and rib all the time to straighten the front when I roll my bike up on the stand. That's just a few inches though--never noticed a problem with alignment there. lol

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/22/2010 @ 8:47 AM *

Say you keep the one fork pinched at the lower tree, you leave the other 3 areas loose. That means you again, push down on the forks. Spin the loose fork. Push the loose fork down to match the one pinched fork;

1. Tighten the upper top tree, that is the L formation at the upper forks, the same upside down [opposite] L tightening sequence is at the lower fork with axle. But this is the upper right crown pinch bolt, that is the first to be tightened is the lower right fork that is torqued at the bottom tree.

2. To make sure the front end is back in alignment, you should be able to push the loose fork up and down, spin it around kind of slides right up both lower tree, and upper crown. This is next is pinch the left lower tree, then the left upper crown pinch bolts in this sequence.

3. Way to many combination setups you can approach with the front end. I just picked one off the top of the head is now push down on the front end, shake the wheel and shit, pushing up and down a few times, you made the axle move with the collars.

4. You did this to spread the collars through the fork ends so the legs [sit] static straight down, not pinched with your diaper in a wad >>> by the collars winding up inside; you screwing the axle in. Say this is work being done with the wheel loaded on the ground. Do you see, I do not need a front end stand. I just need the bike's own side stand for the work here. Hey, I'm in a pinch on the side of the road say.

5. Pinch the [lower] left axle collar first. Pinch the axle side or right fork, last. The more you push and twist the forks, the more things line up heading down the the last pinch sequence. Pinch and move are just more overboard moves, we can play this front end game 'any which way but loose.'

6. YOu do know; you had the calipers all floating loose on their bolts like you have to remove them to remove the wheel. So, here you are with the side stand loaded with the back wheel loaded and your arms are loaded with the front end off the ground on the grips. Now you go under the back of the wheel, kick the front tire backwards to spin, hit the brakes, stop the wheel, let go of the bars, let the front wheel settle where it lays on the bounce.

7. Torque the calipers down, squeeze the pads so the barrels line up in that position now and now you are done. Did you...>>> Have that front wheel checked on the static balance with just your axle? Push the pads away from the disc. Front wheel back off the ground. Move the 3 weights to 12:00 o'clock. Move the 3 weights in [those] 4 clock positions. Not one... Not one spoke should move; once you remove your hand from said position(s).

8. If all went well, you should be able to pull the bars back up, on the side stand, kick the whee so it spins free. It should keep rolling until you hit the lever or stops on it's own.

You can't get the wheel in "crooked"...the design won't allow that to happen.Now IF a "spacer" was not installed,then yeah,the wheel would be off center...BUT THE FORKS WOULD NOT BE AFFECTED...so it in actuality it couldn't be done with our frontends.
RED...when you say "offcenter"...what exactly are you referring to?Bars straight,wheel "turned slightly" right or left?I could see that happening if the forks weren't straight.Please clarify....One scenario could happen,the other....NOT POSSIBLE.If I assume the picture is "accurate".....then the mechanic REMOVED both upper and lower steering head bearings and the races.There's your 1/16th move to the side like the pic shows.We KNOW THAT didn't happen.

Red's forks are perfect.

There's no getting around it.....the steering head CANNOT be OFFCENTER(like the pic is "showing").No manipulation of the wheel install would cause the steering head to be as it appears.

Well...I'm glad at least ONE person(ROOK)is actually seeing what's going on here.There is no "fix" for this one.Nothing's wrong!

Get yer wheel balanced again RED...and ride er proudly!!!!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2010 @ 12:54 PM *

I went out and tried mine. It actually is quit possible to view the nub and the rib while tracking straight down the road. When I'm 0 degrees straight ahead full, the nub and the rib are all lined up like you might expect.

BTW.... RED...had em going for a minute there!!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2010 @ 2:18 PM *

With index and middle finger, place pencil in between said fingers.

Fingers represent forks. Pencil reps the front wheel.

See with an ever so slight move of the forks, the front wheel moves off center? Stick that in your sharpener and grind me a pound, pee N cell poop pee wanger.

"I had them going dare for a second!"

Thanks for the vid scott! Big help in resetting the forks.

Blue, the spacers were the first place I looked. Both are there and both are the same according to the parts diagram. The video link from scott explains what I am seeing.

So, here's my guess...With the loose tree clamp bolts, the mech was probably pulling to loosen something tire change related and had the front wheel in a chock of some kind. This would give him the leverage to rotate both forks while he was say pulling the handlebars for extra force. The rotation of the forks would be minimal and still allow the axle to be reinstalled. But it would leave you with the off center condition. Wheel and fork are no longer in time with triple tree. Wheel and fork go down the road straight and the handle bars are ever so slightly turned.

This is a weekend project for sure.

I've got the same problem but I blamed it on a broken collar bone.I figure if I break the other collar bone it will be OK.The bike doesnt have any handling issues but when I'm going down a straight road I can see the slight offset,I think I'll just follow this thread instead of breaking the other collar bone.Hey if I land on my head I may learn to speak Hubanese

Here is where the energy and the hinge has as much chance coming away straight as a bull in a china shop. Once you drop the hinge, we are talking run-out on the tweak-tweak:

Ring-Ring: sTTraightArrowHingeeHongeeHow can I hell up me?
High... This is DarryleDonKeyHoD, the head me at hello too many times, hinge can I help me, sure.
TTHH: WOT seems to be the problem?
DDD: Well, I followed that gray old fart, bg, into a turn and hot shoe'did I slide out.
TTHH: You don't mean?
DDD: What I mean is now I can haul like no tomorrow one way. The other way, the bike speaks hub ban knees is rubber band the hinge for me please.
TTHH: You mean, band-aid fix the front end is slam the front wheel the opposite bend is I ride down the block with a few tools, tell you I'll be right back on a testicle right, cough left, Ride?
DDD: Right? So, you have time for that?
TTHH: TheThe HellHe yeah, I have time for that, bring it. My tools only turn for "cash" [is clay in my hand, here comes the cheap seats]. Click!

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to give an update. I got my steering back on center! I did just like in the video that scott sent the link to. I supported the front of the bike with straps hung from the ceiling and wrapped around the top clamp. When the front wheel would just start to spin, I stopped lifting. Loosened all 6 of the clamp bolts(lower tree has 4) and put a tape wrapped bar through the front axle. I pulled the handlebar and pushed the leverage bar in opposite directions and heard the same crack sound as in the video. (Note: I marked the fork tubes where they met the lower tree so I could see where I was and or went.)

After that, everything was tightened back to spec. Took it out for a test drive and all is right back where it should be. Came back to the garage and rechecked the torque on the clamp bolts..all good there, time to go tear up some mountain roads!

* Last updated by: redtrace on 6/26/2010 @ 1:01 PM *