A quick question for anyone who has had the tank off a 14R. Does the main fuel line connector have a check valve that stops the fuel draining from the tank when disconnected or is it open? The FSM isn't that clear, just says drain as much as poss before disconnecting and have some rag ready.

Cheers.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 1/8/2016 @ 12:54 PM *

Howdy. The fuel pump acts as a shutoff. You will get a little fuel spillout from whatever is in the fuel line from the pump.No problem.

Mad

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I filled my tank full for winter storage. I'm doing the valve clearence inspection at the moment (probalby get the cams out tonight). I didn't drain a drop from the tank. Yes, a few drips of gas will spill out so be careful and put a towel under. Be careful if you do this (support the outlet line) but you can plug it to keep any drips.

The throttle bodies were worse. All the gas in them drained out as I moved them around. So be careful there too.

Also, be certain you have somewhere to put your tank ready. I used a 5 gallon bucket to support the top, and a couple 2x4s stacked for the bottom to sit on. If someone has a better suggestion I'm open, but I couldn't think of anything else to do.

Vic unless you absolutely certain that tank is stable,remove the tank completely.If for some reason it falls,your eyes will shed tears and your lips profanities.I did my valve adjustment on the 07 without having to remove throttle bodies,I have to do the 2012 and am not looking forward to it.Keep us informed how it goes.sorry not clear did you completely remove tank from the bike or support it on bike?

* Last updated by: darryle on 1/8/2016 @ 4:48 PM *

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Thanks Guys. I'm just about to start stripping mine for the first valve check at just over 24k miles. I'm collecting appropriately sized cardboard boxes and allocating storage space for all the parts removed, especially tank and bodywork to avoid damage. I'll probably drain most of the fuel from the tank just to make it lighter and easier to handle. Removal of the TB's does look the trickiest bit. I'll be taking photos of the bike with the bodywork off for routing of control cables/wiring/hoses etc. Should keep head scratching to a minimum on re-assembly.

Are you guys saying that a pre 2012 doesn't need the fuel tank or throttle bodies removed to set the valves but a 2012 and newer does? If so, please explain why...

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Vic unless you absolutely certain that tank is stable,remove the tank completely.If for some reason it falls,your eyes will shed tears and your lips profanities.

I removed the tank, not sure what you're thinking. Kaw's specification to drain the tank isn't necessary although it's the SAFEST and from a liability standpoint. If someone has the pump their talking about, and a 100% clean/sealed container to put gas in I'm ok with that. 100% I recommend removing the tank. Set it out of the way, in a location in which it will not be disturbed by foot traffic, children, pets, vehicles. It'll get fucked up, and you'll have a gnarly dent and scratches too look at forever. Like I say though, you better have whatever you're going to put it on setup or shits going to fuck up real fast.

I do recommend capping the outlet though just in case something would happen and it would start to leak or smething. however, caution and care must be used doing so. Support the outline line as your capping it. I used a piece of fuel hose that was sealed on one end.

I did my valve adjustment on the 07 without having to remove throttle bodies,I have to do the 2012 and am not looking forward to it.Keep us informed how it goes.sorry not clear did you completely remove tank from the bike or support it on bike?

I'm doing it right now. Just got the cams out. Need go buy a container to put all the shims and buckets in. And yes, it's a bit of a pain but I enjoy wrenching. Like you say, I don't see getting around bypassing the step of removing the throttle bodies in this case. It might be possible, but damn it's tight in there with all that shit out the way and I don't have big hands.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 1/8/2016 @ 7:14 PM *

I'll probably drain most of the fuel from the tank just to make it lighter and easier to handle.

Don't worry about this for weight. Draining half the tank doesn't do shit. It probably weights 45 lbs full is my guess. Unless you're a pussy, and I don't mean wimpy, I mean a pussy that's just like lips and a clit with pubes for arms and legs, you'll be fine.

Here's some photos of the tear down. She's on life support.

Are you guys saying that a pre 2012 doesn't need the fuel tank or throttle bodies removed to set the valves but a 2012 and newer does? If so, please explain why...

Both Gens have little space between the engine top and under the air box. The Gen2 is worse. Take your fairings off and have a look. You'll see.

You don't need to but I think it is probably going to help. First, the valve cover is a little hard to get out smoothly even with the Tbodies removed. I removed the valve cover with Tbodies in last time and couldn't get the cover out without getting a small scrape in the paint on the cover and I was very careful. The valve cover paint scratches easy so tape it all up if you leave the Tbodies in. You could always put the cover back on and remove the Tbodies later if necessary....just don't let any dirt drop in the top of the engine. Put the cover on, stuff spark plug wells and bolt it loosely, then remove Tbodies. Second, there's not much room under there like Vic said. Get 1 is not as bad but still cramped. I did the valve check ONLY last time so the cam shafts did not have to come out. You can leave the Tbodies in but it's probably not a short cut I'd highly recommend the first time and maybe never if you have a Gen2. Never worked on the Gen2 but heard it's even more cramped than the Gen1.

If you remove the T-bodies, you need to remove the gas tank so you can get in the access doors under the tank.

I would drain as much gas as you can out of the tank before removing it. Hooking unhooking the leads at the back is such a pain and that tank is just plain heavy so lighten it up AMAP.

GEN1 VALVE LASH CLEARANCE CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/8/2016 @ 9:26 PM *

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I jacked up the tank with 2x4s to disconnect the fuel line. If you're holding it by hand or something and trying to disconnect the fuel line definitely I can see it being lighter helping.

Myself I wanted to avoid draining the fuel mainly because I would never fill my bike with gas out of a garage can unless I absolutely had to. Also, I don't have any of the equipment (electric pump for example) to do so properly although I'm sure siphoning would work. IMO if you have risk of spilling gasoline you're better off keeping it in the tank. If you must remove fuel be sure there's no ignition sources around, space heaters, work lights, power tools, cigarettes, etc.

I have the bike on a Skylift so I'll rise it to full height and the fuel will syphon pretty quick. Whenever I fill the tank from a jerry can (rarely) I borrow the tank sock I have in the dirt bike tank filler neck just to be safe but if you keep your jerry cans clean the risk is minimal. Think I'll be removing the TB's rather than trying to work round them. I changed the plugs recently and it was a long knuckle grazing nightmare as my hands are not small.
I'll probably do the same as you Victhing by raising the tank on blocks of some kind to disconnect the line before removing it.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 1/9/2016 @ 6:54 AM *

If you have a plan pegscraper, great. if not, I put the 2x4s under the mounts. This worked really well and was very stable. If you wanted to be additinally secure, you could always throw a couple screws through the tank mount holes into the 2x4s. I nearly did this, but it was stable. At the same time, reassembly I'll have to reposition them and all that and the screws would save a step.

Just my thoughts. If you come up with something else please post about it. This worked good, but like anything could be improved.

The only reason I left the T-bodies in last time was because i was fairly certain I would not need to adjust the valve clearance.

I'll probably do the same as you Victhing by raising the tank on blocks of some kind to disconnect the line before removing it.

The fuel line is not too hard to disconnect if you know how the catch unlocks. You'll be doing that by feel. There's pics of the catch in my tutorial. I don't know if you could safely prop it up high enough to get your arm in there under the tank. You'l have to lift the back of the tank at least 10-12 inches to disconnect the fuel line. Maybe you could suspend it from ropes tied to the ceiling or something. I find the best way is to lift the back of the tank up with one hand and reach under to the catch with he other hand. The top of the tank rests on its mounts while I lift the rear. The two wire connectors at the back are the main challenge. I lift the rear of the tank a few inches and stuff a blanket under the tank to hold it up while I take the connectors apart. A 2x4 would work great for that.

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Use 2x4s probably 2-3' in length. It should fit over the frame rails (at the rear of the tank). All you do is shift the tank to the right a couple inches, with the elevation of the 2x4 and that space, plenty of space to disconnect the fuel line.

Remove tank bolts. Lift the front of the tank. Insert the 2x4 standing up, not laying down. The 2x4 should now be covering the frame hole locations. Lower the front of the tank down, the mounts should not be resting on the 2x4. If you had long enough bolts, and drilled holes in the 2x4, you'd actually be able to bolt the tank down.

Next gently lift the rear, insert the 2x4 standing up under the ount. Again, lower the tank carefully.

It's stable enough that unless your 90 lb lab comes running up and jumps on your bike it's not going anywhere.

Carefully shift the tank over a bit, like I said, 1-2 inches, honestly you could probably do more. It'll be fine. Disconnect the line.

Setup where ever your going to put the tank. In my photo the belly of the tank is resting on the 2x4, keeping the outlet line off the floor. Pull the tank off, set it on whatever you got setup. What I got setup, my tanks not going anywhere unless someone knocks it over.

I usually just set mine carefully on the floor. It rests on the rubber bumpers at the bottom of the tank and the front mounting bracket. Sometimes I roll a blanket up and prop up the front a few inches so the tank is a bit more upright. If there is much gas in the tank or if it's on a downslope surface, gas might leak out of the gas cap so be aware of that.

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Rook, thanks for the reply. I asked because I had no problem setting the valves on my 07 without removing the throttle bodies or the gas tank and frankly, couldn't imagine why it's necessary on the 2012. I may find out if I get bored...

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If there is much gas in the tank or if it's on a downslope surface, gas might leak out of the gas cap so be aware of that.

Bingo! My tank's topped off to the cap (best practice for storage). Which is another reason I didn't want to drain it! Given what I've seen happen to tanks, I'd rather keep it off floor level too. I've had friends that have fucked their tanks up doing stupid shit (working on the bike).

Got all the shims measured. Every Kaw shim was dead nuts on. For anyone's interest, every shim was placed stamp side up too.

7 of the 8 exhaust were all 2.25s. No pattern on the intake, 4 different sizes used. It's kind of concerning though, most of the shims are fairly slim now. 2.25s were the thickest. RH of Intake 3 and 4 are already 2.175 shims a they were down to .152 and .14.

I suppose at some point they settle I hope. I'd hate to think I'd have to rebuild the damn head at 75k miles.

I am pretty certain some of my factory installed shims were stamp side down. Facing the stamp up prevents the number from wearing off and that alone is enough reason to put them in that way.

It's kind of concerning though, most of the shims are fairly slim now. 2.25s were the thickest.

The clearance might have tightened up .3mm or so but I doubt it will ever change nearly that much again in 15,000 miles. I don't have my numbers in front of me but I'd guess the wear is very VERY gradual from here on in. I don't see you doing another adjustment until a hundred thousand miles is my guess.

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For you anal retentive guys like me, Hot cams offers shims .001" different than the factory shims.
It takes more effort but you can get the clearance you want rather than just within spec.
Does it make a difference? Dunno, I just feel better...:)

Previously posted dimension as mm but corrected to inches...

* Last updated by: HanksZX on 1/10/2016 @ 6:59 AM *

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I appreciate the input. Think I'm going to target .2375 for exhaust and .1675 for the intakes. This should still give the valves a little room to move but hopefully not be under by next interval. I always preferred to run my old bike a little looser than tighter (not excessively loose). Seemed to rev more freely at higher rpms.

I pull the TBs to get them out of the way and also to give them a good cleaning and inspection. They tend to accumulate crud on the outside and there's always some varnish inside.

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Danno, I'll take a look at my TB's and intakes when/if I get bored.
I'm very curious about the varnish deposits you mentioned as I only use "Top Tier" gas. Top Tier gasolines have stronger detergent packages to prevent varnish and carbon deposits with premium having the most.
http://www.toptiergas.com/

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I also didn't notice any varnishing. I did notice, and it seems odd to me, the the the outside intake valves (#1 LHS and #4 RHS) have some carbon deposits on them. All the other's are clean. Just kind of weird IMO...

TBs need to be balanced, flow to 1 and 4 is different than 2 and 3.

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