Before I go ahead and do this, I just thought I would ask one last time....there is definitely no connector that unsnaps to remove the horn....right?

UPDATE:
This thread has been around a while. I was not understanding the replies I got ..I guess they were saying 'NO need to cut, pull the contacts apart." Yep they are tight but they will come off if all you want is to take off the horn.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/15/2013 @ 10:20 AM *

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there is only the 2 spade connectors that connect directly to the horn

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There are two connectors attached to the horn. Who said that? Then, you guide that harness up to the intake snorkel, you have a hot wire for accessories. As long as you don't use the other (-) horn wire, you press the button, the hot will short to ground in other words. Other than that, use common plug connectors as you connect the males into the horn's female connectors.

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Thanks fellas. Thought so but you what they say: "measure twice, cut once."

Then, you guide that harness up to the intake snorkel, you have a hot wire for accessories.

That was my long term plan. That wire will be for my NOS switch some day...hopefully before the end of this season.

I could cut the wire close to the horn and have most of the length I need to reach the solenoid. It is such an ugly crumpled up wire though. I like my wires to be smooth and sleek. Nasal cannula works great and looks very clean. ...as long as the wires will fit the inside of the tube. If not, 1/8" water hose would work just fine.

Other than that, use common plug connectors as you connect the males into the horn's female connectors.

Yeah, i'll pick up some connectors at Radio Shack and solder them up so that the horn can be reconnected or so that the wire stubs can be used for a NOS switch. For now, I'll just tape the ends up so they don't contact by accident.

Here goes.....

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that didn't hurt a bit.

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It seems strange that the horn button is located on the left pod but the horn lead to the horn speaker runs to a bundle of wires on the right hand side.

We have horn button on the left with wire bringing power in to the switch (I suppose).

Why do they run the wire going OUT to the horn speaker all the way over to the other side? Seems unnecessarily complicated to me.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/24/2013 @ 4:53 PM *

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Rook, instead of cutting would T Tap connectors have worked?

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Yes, for nitrous system I don't see why not....only problem, you would be on the horn the whole time you were on the spray!! LOL

My immediate concern was weight reduction and there is no way that horn would come off except to cut the wire. I suppose I may have been able to dremmel the rivets off the contacts but I don't need that gnarly old OEM wire hanging there. I'll just hook in a nice clean one.

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Weird. On the Australian model, the spade lugs just pull off the horn, no rivets.
They were tight (careful you don't dent the radiator fins) but pulled straight off

Agree the loom is a bit long and strange to cross sides....

* Last updated by: oz14 on 5/14/2013 @ 11:14 PM *

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fokme if you're not right oz. damn. already cut! I see a couple others indicated that there were spade connectors. I di not understand that that meant they were pull apart contacts. I saw the rivets and ASSumed. ah well. I don't want that damn wire hanging there anyway. The bike is 6 years old. Time to stop worrying about restoring it to OEM.

I will go back to my original post and edit in the info before anyone else cuts. Thanks oz.

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