I’m still using a factory cam chain tensioner, I sometimes get a rattle on start up, do they cause top end ticking noises as well especially on a warm engine? (Is it the chain I’m hearing or valve clearances)My valve clearances were adjusted by a Kawasaki dealer 800 miles ago
Cheers Dave

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 4/15/2021 @ 11:59 AM *

If it's first gen tensoner I have the trick fix on a vid. If you can tell the top end was never touched [I can], top end tick are tight shims/tight adjustable type rocker arms both make the same tick... Ask me how my leaf feeler blades look like today as from learning the trade.

Now, say you look at your receipt. How many shims were changed? Hot, tick is even worse.

The only CCT noise I heard was rattle at start up. I replaced it with an APE tensioner and it's been quiet for ten years now without ever needing to adjust it.

Hi
They definitely had the cover and camshafts out as they invited me into workshop as they were awaiting a couple of shims, they also logged the clearances on the dealership computer for future reference, so I am 99 percent sure they have done them correctly, this was done as additional work as they had cover off to replace leaking gasket.

The motor as a slight ticking noise with 24,000 on the clock, I know when I set my roller rockers on my chevy v8 they tick a bit, I know slightly loose is better than tight.
Ive built quite few small block chevy engines for my drag car, I really should do my own on work on my zx14 but find confined spaces frustrate me.
Dave

Since you're mechanically inclined, Dave, this should be no problem. Here I sort of repeat myself a few times, but the point is not to kink the ratchet locking spring. And if the set ring that holds the ratchet shaft in place can lock the shaft, leave that spring alone.

What I didn't explain was how to get past 2nd gear. Stabbing it in 1st should not be a problem. You can first shift the bike in 2nd and stop the engine, then it shifts to 6th so the wheel is easier to move. I mean it won't take much but to pop it backwards on the wheel rotation. That chain slap pushes the shaft in and out it pops.

The reason why you just want to float it off the mount hole is to make sure you are not farther out or you made the shaft click one gap too far to have the tensioner sent home. By letting it have a business card gap, you see how narrow the gap is on the push sent home.

Because, you want to see if no noise on startup... says the tensioner is not part of any tick when hot. Still have the tick when tensioner noise is gone, then you can go back to a tight shim/rocker so that clears that variable. Now, if goes away, then it was the tensioner making the tick.

Thanks Hub for presenting that information for me, it's really interesting how people can work around issues, and even Improve original designs, I really need to jump in and start taking my bike apart and learning,apart from a few differences between car and bike engines it all comes down to mechanical engineering really,I think because I've really only worked on old school American v8s, twin cam jap small capacity 4 cylinder engines seem a bit daunting, and of course limited space! once again cheers Dave

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 4/16/2021 @ 6:02 PM *