Throttle Cables Clean and Lube

Cleaning and lubricating of throttle cables should be done periodically to ensure that the cables move freely and do not stick during operation. When I removed the lower end of my throttle cables, water spilled out of the steel tubes. Lubrication of the throttle cables will also help displace moisture that collects in the cable housings.

The cable cleaner/lube tool seems to be fairly universal in design.. I don’t know that one brand would be any better than another. They may all be made by the same manufacturer. The only difference that I saw among the many cleaner/lube tools online was that some had one screw and others had two. I chose the 2 screw Cable Life cleaner/lube tool (available from Denis Kirk) and I think that was probably the best choice. However, I have never tried the 1 screw cleaner tool. The Cable Life lube/cleaner tool is the brand of tool that is sold with Cable Life cable lube (also available from Dennis Kirk). I bought the 2 screw Cable Life cleaner under the assumption that the seal created by a 2 screw cleaner would be superior to the seal of a 1 screw cleaner. Along with the clean/lube tool, I purchased a couple refill cans of Cable Life spray lube.

I am satisfied with the cleaning and lubricating properties of Cable Life lube but I see no reason why any other reputable brand of cable lube would not work as good or perhaps a be bit more to certain individuals’ taste. Any aerosol can of lube that can be sprayed through a small straw attached to the valve could be used with the cleaner/lube tool. Personally, I would not use anything that was not well known and designed to lube motorcycle cables. I noticed a popular brand of chain wax also claims to be an excellent lube for cables. That is a good chain lube but I would absolutely NOT use that or any type of wax lube for cables.

I sprayed about one third of a can of lube through my throttle cables to clean and lube them thoroughly. The job should be done outdoors over a drip pan. The lube will squirt or mist out of the cleaner/lube tool and it will drip out of the cable ends.

Do first:
Remove Throttle Cables (THROTTLE CABLE REMOVAL, steps 1-9) <<click

Inspect cables. Pull each cable as far as it will go out of the plastic tube and look for rust or broken cable strands. Replace a worn or damaged cable.

Tools:
Cable lubing tool
Aerosol Cable lube with straw

1. Pull a couple of inches of lower throttle cable from the steel tube. Position the cable end so that it protrudes from the end of the rubber seal of the cable lube tool.

2. Place the flange of the steel tube in the rubber seal of the cable lube tool.

3. Tighten the screw(s) of the cable lube tool so that the rubber seal is compressed against the steel cable tube and the cable that protrudes from the end.

4. I used Cable Life lube. It is a product made for motorcycle cables and it is also made to be used with the lubing tool I purchased. Place the straw which is included with the can into the spray valve of the can.

5. Insert the free end of the straw into the hole in the cable lube tool. Squirt blasts of lube into the tool. The liquid will probably spray out of the top of the tool where the cable protrudes. The other end of the tool where the steel tube flange is compressed in the rubber seals very tight and should not leak.

Spray lube into the tool until you see lube bubble out of the cable adjusters. Spray a few more times to purge dirt from the cable housing.

6. Insert the straw from the spray valve into the slot in the plastic tube at the upper throttle cable. Spay lube directly into this area.

7. Repeat steps 1-6 with the the remaining throttle cable.

8. Hang the cables for about 30 minutes. Reinstall the cables. (THROTTLE CABLE REMOVAL, steps 10 through 20).

9. Lube the cable ends before positioning them in the reels on the throttle tube and throttle actuator.

I use high temperature grease for the lower cable ends.

Silicone grease for the upper ends that fit into the throttle tube.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/1/2018 @ 4:52 PM *

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Okay!Another good one...I have to ask though on this one...the service manual says nothing about removing the entire cable from the motorcycle.I would naturally rather NOT remove everything,if it could be accomplished at the throttle grip area.I tried once before with that tool you have,and the spray method.I (it seemed anyway)could not get the lube to travel down the cable.It looked to me like it was just spraying out of the tool and going nowhere.Was it going into the cable sheath?I stopped before it got all over the place.

I'm sure you could give a shot through the straw down the plastic tube at the top cable ends and it would run down the cables and keep them lubed. that is basically whhat is happenning in step 6. I gave it a shot at the tops after I ran lube through from the bottom.

No way that top end of the tube is gonna work with the clean/lube tool though. If it doesn't get squashed in the tool it will shoot right back out of that long open slot in the plastic tube. I bet the reason they have that long slot up on top is so that the cables can be lubed there. No way you are gonna purge them from up on top though.

I don't see why you couldn't lube from the bottom and leave the tops in the the throttle case. It would be messy. I think there are some square stamp marks on the cables at the top and the bottom. That is actually a small hole in the cable. Lube is gonna bubble out of those spots first.

I think It may be a good idea to just remove the cables once every year because as I mentioned in the openning, water dumped out of the lower tubes whenI removed them from the T bodies.

Looks like the illustrations in the SM are showing a cable housing similar to what we have at the lower end. You are correct, they do not say REMOVE THROTTLE CABLES but obviously that is part of the procedure. The SM is a great source of info but there is almost always something that is not mentioned because it is ASSumed that we know what we should be doing. That's why I like to share these how toos. I try to cover everything that a beginner wrencher is going to encounter along the way.

IMHO, you have to remove the cables from both ends to REALLY do this job to perfection. The bottom ends are easier than the tops. ONE little retainer spring and the steel housings will come right out.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/21/2011 @ 5:31 PM *

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Actually Grn, I think if you want to remove the lower cable ends from the T bodies, you are best to remove the top cable ends from the throttle grip tube first.

I did not have it in that order for my tutorial on cable removal but now I went back and edited. Thanks.

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Okay...good to know Rook.Ya...I thought about going from bottom to top,but after I got to checkin out the crossover and removal deal....I decided against it.You would think that SOMEONE would come up with a tool that would specifically be useful for a simple top to bottom lubing for the 14 cable setup.I'm thinkin here...a guy could make some decent bucks IF he could design one......ROOK?...are you listening?ROOK?????I mean..how difficult COULD it be?A modified cable grasper...you know.The basic tool/principle is already there...yes?

Ya...anyway...your procedure looks very good...I'll most likely be doing it your way come lube time.

As an aside...I did replace my cables one time on my 14...removing them at the bottom like you said.I didn't however get any water coming out.Don't have any idea where you might have picked that up from.You ride in the rain any?I don't.I suppose IF a guy washed his bike...including the throttle grip housing and such,it could get in there?I stayed away from using water on my 14 right after I got her...maybe once or twice to remove the road grime out of the teensy close places...but that was it.I stopped doing that very early in ownership.Never had any problems with seals or bearings or anything...and didn't want any.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/22/2011 @ 1:55 AM *

ahahaha ! I'd LOVe to make and sell motorcycle stuff. Maybe if I had machine shop tools.

.Don't have any idea where you might have picked that up from.You ride in the rain any?

I've ridden in one major downpour and washed the bike with water a hundred times. No seal or bearing problems here either. i do get some minor aluminum corrosion on some of the bolt hole threads. I don't remember if that steel housing at the bottom ends is crimped onto the cables but if not i can see how water could run down the cables and collect there. Once water is in I don't think it would be coming out any time soon.

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I've decided...it's just a whole lot easier to sell the bike BEFORE I need to do any acrobats with a friggin cable oiler!LOL!!!!That chain's lucky I can get to it so easily...otherwise...it'd be....well...you know

Old skool,remove cables from throttle ,cut off corner of plastic milk bag, cut off tip ,insert cable,seal to cable with elastic band add 1/2 ounce of oil,allow oil to flow down cable,over night is best

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There ya go!...My whole deal with this thing was trying to NOT have to remove the whole shebang.Rook did it excellently....From the bottom up(upside down that is)...that's the ticket.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/25/2012 @ 12:53 PM *

I'm glad I avoid rain like the plague.If they call for even a little chance of rain no riding.Got caught two times in three years.The day I picked the bike up.How unlucky is that.Some other day I can't remember.Other than that when I wash it is the only time it gets wet.
Craig

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updated

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done once again.

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