This is for the busa. It has a new Woodcraft stator cover that is about to go on and the SM says to use engine sealant on the spots where the engine case seams mate up. You know, like the seams in the engine case under the timing rotor cover on the 14....it is recomended that sealant be used there to.

Well the stator cover on the busa has a thin plastic-like OEM gasket which should do most of the work of sealing the cover. The Woodcraft cover came with a thicker fibrous gasket that looks like it would form to irregularities better than the OEM gasket.

Should I use the engine sealant as suggested in the book? It is REALLY cold out there. Below freezing the last couple weeks. We had a day of 40 F and I wiped a dob of sealant on the outside of teh case. It was still sticky even after 24 hours. After a couple weeks it is solid. I just rubbed it with my finger and it rolled up into balls almostr like rubber cement which is probably what it should do....I am just not sure if the cold would have any effect on the long term durability of this sealant.

Should I wait for another 40 F day and stick the cover on with sealnt applied to the seams areas? ...Or should I install it with teh new gasket and without any sealant? ...Or should I put the old stator cover back on for the time being and just wait until it is warmer? The engine and wire coils are wrapped up and sealed in plastic so that is safe but I have this fear that an animal will nest in it or some other mishap...hate to let the thing sit there with a plastic bagged taped to the side all winter.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/26/2014 @ 4:18 PM *

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If it was me, I'd put the old one back on and wait for a warmer day. Not that I'm a master mechanic or anything but thats my opinion.

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this is almost a nobrainer. That would undoubtedly be the safest thing all around. I was just wondering if anyone would surprize me with an idea that had not occurred to me.. Also, the 14 will def be coming out of storage late this Spring because of some maintenance that I will NOT attempt in the cold. So the busa has to be ready to ride ASAP.

thanks BUSAKILLER.

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Use the honda/yama-bond type gray sealer. Use only at the rubber cutout side to gasket. Leave the rest dry and clean of any grease or old gasket that did not come off. Use a straight edge razor and do not gouge the mirror finish, nor use a buffing wheel to remove gaskets.

The bond will just take longer to dry/setup in the cold, than waiting for a warmer day. Close it down so you are ready to start it as if a warm day came along either way.

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Hair dryer?IDK.Get things warmed right there a bit?

Use some Three Bond 1194 liquid gasket.

or get a small ceramic heater and leave it in the general vecinity to keep the temp up so it sets and cures, then your ready, and the heater can be used next year for some other jog your gonna do, lol.

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Use the honda/yama-bond type gray sealer.

I have a $60 tube of Kawasaki recomended 3Bond. It is clear like the stuff that was applied at the factory.

The entire OEM gasket came off with the cover so nothing to remove but the oil film.

The bond will just take longer to dry/setup in the cold, than waiting for a warmer day. Close it down so you are ready to start it as if a warm day came along either way.

hehe, I might just do that. Seems like the test DID set up albeit very slowly. I won't be starting the bike for at least another month and half-two months anyway.

Hair dryer?IDK.Get things warmed right there a bit?

I was thinking maybe a heating pad or two lain under and across the motor overnight. A hair drier would be risky. There is a lot of dirt and dust out on that garage floor. Something might get blown up into the motor.

Use some Three Bond 1194 liquid gasket.

I got ThreeBond 1211F "Liquid Gasket*Clear* solventless Silicone & Sag type* Excellent heat resistance". It does not mention anything about temp range to apply the stuff. It says that curing cycle is related to air temp relative humidity and thickness of application.

or get a small ceramic heater and leave it in the general vecinity to keep the temp up so it sets and cures

Good idea. I think I will do a combination of everything. I'll definitely wait until it gets above freezing for a couple days and try a heating pad. I think the ThreeBond will work fine as long as it sits a long time and the weather seems to be guaranteeing it will.

thanks any more comments welcome.

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Seems like the test DID set up albeit very slowly.

Use the z-bond because it's made to resist the oil. Slow you tested and found out what? Did it dry up slower than a hot day? Doesn't water evap slower in the cold than a hot day but still evaps anyway?

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well, actually Hub I did do an experiment last Spring with this stuff drying indoors by a heat vent. It took a couple hours under the vent and it still was not solid. It was tacky. Compared to the outdoor curing this year in 40-45F garage, it was about 25x slower. Took at least a couple days to get to the sticky stage.

I suppose heat causes water to evaporate faster but if it is warm and humid day, the pavement might stay wet all day. You would be surprised at how dry it gets in subfreezing weather. Moisture freezes if it has pooled in a puddle but it evaporates very quickly into the air if spread thinly like on wet pavement. Our roads are white with salt right now. No ice no water. Very dusty and dry even though it is 7 F outside.

Cold usually slows down chemical reactions. That is why I am wondering if applying this stuff in the cold will effect its durability. I guess even though the cold will make the silicone set slower, the low relative humidity will probably make it set more rapidly. You have forces working in opposition to one another. I think it will be okay to apply the stuff in cool weather but no reason to rush now. I won't ride for weeks.

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Most of em say on the label somewhere 'do not apply at temps 'below' a certain degree'.I'd follow that if it were me.You're right...tempting as it is to 'do something'...best to wait for milder stuff...it's coming...soon;)Especially with something as iffy as a seal on a crankcase.Not to mention the(possible) brittleness of the bolts.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 2/27/2014 @ 1:31 PM *

my main concern would be having a chunk of sealant break off. That is always a possibility and one reason I would consider not using sealant at all. If it leaks, then take it off and use the sealant. "If it don't leak, don't fix it." But these little potential leaks are elusive. takes a long time to see if they are happening. Drives me nuts so then I think "seal it and forget about it."

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Leak = See floor
Seep = Wipe clean at this narrow spot.
Anal = Install dry - Smear on the outside and press into the dry cover with finger, then wipe clean [off to the sides] of that line.

Tube = Inside it is not exposed to the air is a longer shelf life.
Out the tube = Oh look, Moe! A chemical reaction happens and it dries up being exposed out of the tube.

Could I paint my house in the cold? Sure. It just takes longer to dry. You don't mean... Yes, it's out of the can.
Are you razzing Rook? Why n-n-n-n-oooo, what makes you say that? Is he a perfectionist? Say nothing about those guys. They are still watching the wall dry.

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[quote]Leak = See floor
Seep = Wipe clean at this narrow spot./quote]
Yes there is a lot of dif between a simple seep and a leak that is so bad it drips down the motor and falls on the floor. A leak is something that needs attending to because it will be a constant maintenance issue to keep the proper oil level. And that truly does drive me nuts. A seep is mainly just a 1x/year or two cleanup job but still rather not have that.

Anal = Install dry - Smear on the outside and press into the dry cover with finger, then wipe clean [off to the sides] of that line. [

Too much for me. I like just using a real gasket. I'm more anal about what might happen to liquid gasket or threadlocking agent inside the motor once everything is bolted down. I do my best to avoid the use of such stuff if possible.

Could I paint my house in the cold? Sure. It just takes longer to dry.

I can tell you oil paint will dry in cold air but very slowly. All paints have an optimum range of temps that they are to be applied at so that they form the most durable films films.

Is he a perfectionist? Say nothing about those guys. They are still watching the wall dry.

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I'm more anal about what might happen to liquid gasket or threadlocking agent inside the motor once everything is bolted down.

Use an artist's spatula to apply a thin coat so there is no squeezed out food to feed Cody with.

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