2006 zx-14 - Muzzyt m14 full exhaust, just removed seconday flies, put in k&n air filter and remapped with map from muzzy. Why didn't I do this sooner!!!

Great mod, not hard to do. Took a little more than an hour to get apart, remove screws (far left screw gave me a little grief, then bought a better screw-driver) and put it back together including the remap.

Roll-ons and 0-1xx rpm romps and maniacal laughter
I should have bought two sets of b016's!!!! Going to need them soon.

* Last updated by: ForemanGrillz on 4/1/2009 @ 10:18 PM *

A drag racing friend of mine (with a ZX14 of course) told me that the map supplied by Muzzy for the M10 exhaust was way too rich. I downloaded it and installed it anyway. I had std air filter, M10 and 'flies out. For some reason, the whole setup just didn't feel that crisp although far better than stock.

I eventually got sick of the noise and decided to put the stock exhaust back on which meant I needed a new map. This time I used the map supplied by Dynojet. Instantly the bike felt crisper and far more responsive but bear in mind I was only using my "seat of the pants" dyno.

What I'm saying is that the map may or may not be a good map so it's worth having a proper dyno tune done to get it right. I reckon you'll pick up a few extra HP and get a smoother response to go with it. Just my 2c worth. In any case, enjoy the extra performance that Kawasaki should have given us all in the first place. Cheers.

Yup, I too got sick of the Muzzy's noise, put my stock pipes back on!

Congrats, Foreman. tteksep speaks some great info here. There is a Muzzy Map that is floating around with some HUGE plus #'s. If you see #'s like plus 75 in the one you have installed(yuk)then you will love the map from dyno jets web site for the M-14 flies out. You should do a map compare just so you can see the diff. I hope this helps cheers.

Never go back. I pulled the flys all good of course 06 model. Now I read a lot about noise so decided on the Yoshimura system because of reviews saying quiet. Got the 4 into 1 with the quiet insert and have no noise fatigue and am not even going back to stock. Stock pipes suck.

I confess...I enjoyed having my stock pipes on there.TiForces are fine however-"almost" as quiet-sep when ya open er up..WoHoooo!.Put em on mainly for weight savings.Nice pipes-easy install.Fairly un-obnoxious.I'm not trying to be heard!!!!Just a nice low grrrr when idling-and a pretty good gaarrrr when openin up.

My brother and I just spent most of the weekend working on our 14's. He took his flies out Sat, with no problems. He used a #1 phillips on a short T handle. (no heat)Said it was a little rougher at low rpm's but had a little more grunt. I helped with putting the block offs on his PAIR valves. He has slip on two brothers carbon exhaust. He said it still pops on decelleration, just not as bad. His 14 is an 07.
I put a two brothers full exhaust on mine with a carbon canister. Mine didn't pop much before I blocked the PAIR valves today.(haven't test drove it yet) I had to loosen my header and pull it away from the oil filter.It was riding against it. Now i have 1/2 clearance. I hated the stock exhaust, with the catalytic converter about an eighth of an inch from the oil pan. I'm sure that would be bad in the summer. I wonder why there was no shield on it? Anyway its gone. Oh my bike is a 09. I didn't remove my flies (yet) because I heard the later models open the flies sooner?
We both plan on dyno'ing them soon and a PC if they are too lean. I have about 200 miles on my bike and the first 2 in on the stainless pipes have turned blue and purple. I don't feel any flat spots so I hope it's not lean.
My old exhaust weighed 43 lbs on my bathroom scales. The new exhaust was 16 lbs shipping..Sorry I didn't weigh just the parts. My bike now weighs 534 lbs full of gas. My 05 busa weighed 538 stock with about a gallon of gas in it.

Pete, should have put the pc on when you did the exhaust and just used the the free map till you get the dyno done. Dont mess with the flys there in there for a reason( smooth operation). Unless your a drag racer. Just block off the large hose going up into the air box, there are a few ways, brock shows a plastic plug. Thats what I used and I only get a slight back fire under extreme conditions at about 3000 rpm. Pay the money and get it done right, you wont be disapointed. Mine is a complete freeway fucking monster with a PC, full exhaust and custom map only.

Thanks Buck20,
I was planning on installing a PC. But if I had it dyno'd and the air fuel ratio checked, who knows, it might be ok as is.. I'm just wanting to fact check and let you guys know what i find. I think the pipes turning blueish close to the heads is caused from the stainless material in the pipes. After paying $888 for the exhaust, money is a little tight for buying a $300+ PC and paying the dyno guy $250 more (if) it doesn't make a lot of dif..
A cheaper route for me would be pay the dyno guy $50 for a hp and A/F reading to see how far off I (may) be.
We bought the plates and blocked off the reed valves instead of blocking the air hose to the air box. It leaves more room to work on it later.
I ran a 6.69@110mph 1/8 on my 05 busa with a slow reaction time of .9 I can tell the 14 is going to be faster if I can keep the front wheel close to the ground. :-)

Roll-ons and 0-1xx rpm romps and maniacal laughter

Been there done that? No... Been there keep doing that! I thought I was the only one hurting my ear drums in a helmet. I'm looking around to see who heard me on some of dem dare roll-ons.