The more you stay stock, the better you will enjoy your bike. What will be discussed here is basic air speed changes to tuning. That is all we care about with a high performance 'tuneup.' There are guys/gals that 'Tune" their bike with cams, advancers, porting, stroking, and other forms of increasing the speed into the cylinder.

This write is more for the light weight tuner uppers like myself that do not need that much work, being I am not in race competition that deep. We are just trying to both tune the bike so it is quicker and also smoother. This is just a mild street bike anyone can ride... Especially the first year bike.

Here are a few ways the factories play with air speed. Once design, you can take that air coming in and close the air that enters the air cleaner side of the engine. So, there is all this air waiting to be sucked in, but only a swinging door gates the air [before the air cleaner]. See the positioning of the air assist between designs? Say another approach to the same air speed can be slowed by a device that is on the other side of the air cleaner. We know this as the: Subthrottle/secondaries/flies.

There are other air doors inside exhaust systems too. These are found on some of the other brands of the, "Big4." Interesting stuff to play with, but for here, we will stay with the one design the 14 uses for air slowing; are the subthrottle plates. Once you have that comfortable feel of the 14 and that power, you sort of settle inn to that new speed your older bike never had! So, here you are sleeping at the switch you are craving more out of the bike.

Personally, I feel the slower the subthrottle, the more you have all that power under you is that slower linear feel; feels like a huge wave coming to shore but slow as hell! You get this ripping current coming up, but it is missing something like the fast forward button is not there. Like the other bikes with the, A-B-Chew feel that wave change?... It is all that matching of the air doors opening and exhaust matching signals: Set the air speed to enter sooner is all that the buttons do.

For you to have that same gate changing effect on the 14, you have no handle bar switch option but to physically remove/move the way the air enters the cylinder. There are 4-ways you can have that air under your control is to look around here for it in another thread. Might be in the How-To section. Rather than rehash what has been said [there], this is more for the 'WHY' we alter the flow is simply to: Make the air intake event happen sooner. That is your basic fundamental tuning philosophy.

Again, for me, I want to remain as stock as possible. I am looking at the raw data of the bike and know going in, I want to remove as many restriction devices as possible, but remain stock, as in: All emissions working. Why? Because they are tuning tools believe it or not. Remember, we want to have more air speed going in that cylinder. Well, for every reaction there is that exhaust that is going to happen along with other strokes involved with their reactions/actions. The stock exhaust happens to restrict the air you tried to move in faster. So, there is more to air speed on one side of the fence as there is to the other that that reaction.

Back to gaining air speed... We have a few tricks that will help out; being both a bump in speed and a bump is smoothness. This can be obtained by removing the stock OEM steel screen. Remember, I am not using a piggy fuel device for these two mods. This is raw data to refined data being we are chasing tune > up to a lean point. We are not making huge air changes that need an extra [fuel] tuning device to match the minor air speed changes we've made. These are very subtle changes as if you raised the idle by screw [being the air cleaner will raise the rpm a little if any. Is if you raised the idle, did not the bike know that too? If you WOT the throttle sitting idle in neutral and you now grab a hand full, did not the engine rip right up there as fast as you could move the throttle?

The reason we can work the parts off the bike is because there is not enough air speed to cause any type of lean damage >> If you know how to ride a highly tuned performance production bike like the docile 14. A screen removal and a subthrottle removal are two basic air restrictors. These are the first to go if, 'The Tuneup' is about to occur.

If you are under warranty, you do not want to jeopardize that agreement. So, you have to make a decision to that contract. The mods stated here will cause your warranty to be void. So, do not to upset your dealer [knowing you altered the bike] with that agreement over your head. It is not his fault you modded up and now expect your bike to be repaired caused by your mods. Say a more breathable air cleaner could not seal as well as the OEM and now you cry foul,(plugs)? See what I mean?

Back to our speed tuning or tuneup, more or less. I took a loop with #4-Mod of the throttle body subs, (photo found on this forum). I then removed the safety wire and reinstalled the choke system. I then rolled the throttle with the subsystem in play. I have an '08 and I am here to tell you; if you want the tuneup, then raw data to refinedata says no sub no way is no how about that!..... PERIOD!

We are not that involved with any sort of hot rod project in this thread. This is more for the rider that wants the performance tune that gets her done without all the money and fuss that begins to weaken the integrity of the base you stared with. For this thread, we just want to stick with the mods that stop short of pulling off the valve cover or splitting the cases. This is more the raw data you just rode out of the dealership and took your first spin on your 14. Few hundred miles later, you have the idiosyncrazy of the bike figured out, what to expect when you give it a slight boost to see what you own.

If you want more tune out of a stock bike, then the two quickest mods are the air cleaner screen and flies removed. Did you want even more tuneup? Then the next step is an exhaust system, advance movers and piggyback fuel cutters that are out there. OK, this is going to be a can of worms about to spill over. We have yet to mention the hack 'toning' or PAIR preparation.

Lets break this down as two tuning ranges:

A. We pull the OEM A/C element, remove the steel screen for smoothing purposes.
B. We remove the subthrottle for faster air movement which gives all around peak performance from idle to red line. No other mods needed here.

Down range, we can keep tuning the air speed and now bring in more TNT or a different fuel. Have an even faster event with cams opening sooner, etc. We can add more condensed air (NOS) as a helper with the fuel piggy. But here, we have yet to remove any internals inside the engine. We would almost need the list down below to help with the changing internal parts; that is if you were to keep stepping up the tune buy adding cams, porting, and the like.

Your 2nd tuning stage would look more or less is to add:

1. Fuel piggy devices.
2. Exhaust systems.
3. Freer flowing air cleaner elements.
4. Porting.
5. Cam swap.
6. Compression changes for proper applications, i.e., pistons, head gasket thicknesses.
7. Outside fuel (piggy) adders like NOS/water-alcohol injection/nitro base fuels/other exotic fuels.
8. Bottom end builders like rod replacement.
9. 1Atmo Hacks in the computer is use the 'redundant' mapping like the GPS signal.
10. Swing arm extensions to bring the HP to the rear wheel and not thru the shock spring; as in a squat loss is that now returned to the rear wheel.
11. Weight removal that increases HP so as not to move a lead ball and all that is theory.
12. Emission helpers [removed]*

*Most on the list stated above are for closed course purposes only and do not apply to to street standards. You sort a see how much it costs to move faster? Well, with a bike like this, you do not need much to make it a touch faster is unlock the air travel.

I don't know; I was starting to post this in the accessories topic regarding Pazzo levers and it got me going. I'm going to weigh in my new obsession which is keeping this bike more or less stock and still making it go like stink. I've never, ever had a bike that just killed with so little work. When I bought my V65 Magna in 1984 I had a pretty tits bike for the day, but I was replacing every part that I could trying to wring a little bit more out of it by re jetting (and re jetting and re jetting) followed by porting and polishing, more lift, more duration, more re jetting, etc...... We have a bike that is so sorted out from the factory; I've got an 08 and haven't even messed with subs, added a pc, what have you, and it's just a beast. Not to say that there's nowhere to go with it though. I stuck on slip ons just because I hated the weight, look, and the sound of the stockers, but have left it alone. For now. It seems to me that lighting up the code of this bike is what's really going to eek out more while keeping the most rideable streetable bike reliable and solid. I've screwed around with K+N's on so many bikes and while I have no empirical evidence, I always had the feeling that when I saw compression loss and valve sealing that the grit that was getting by shortened the life of the motor. Striving for the perfect air/fuel ratio has fouled and burned up many pistons for me. What I want now is what the 14 offers more or less stock. Again, not that I don't want more, but this bike's only going to see the track from time to time, which is really the realm of the liter bike anyway.

The future of tuning doesn't really lie in the box of jets, a freer flowing filter, and such, it relies on 0's and 1's and loading them into the brain of our machine. And this is what I want to learn and implement on my bike. Lot's of my cars have been sleepers, from my P71 police interceptor to a screaming '69 camaro that looked stock. And a chip was simpler than square bores with mechanical secondaries, single planes, and again, jetting and re jetting. Greasing some tubbed, pro-street wanna-be on street tires is what the 14 can do in the bike world with attention to code. Hubs(z) has the right idea and the learning curve is steep, but this is where it's going, like it or not. We can argue endlessly about the best oil, filters, etc., but looking elsewhere is where we'll get the most out of this bike.

But where are the turbo guys???

JayFell:

Curious as to which slip ons you when with, and how you like them.

I hear you about 0's and 1's.

The forum has only been open for 12 days, so I wouldn't give up on turbo guys just yet... -bg

By the way, thanks for getting this all going here, it's looking good.

As for the slip ons, I was all ready to respect the Kawasaki/Akropovich relationship and go with them until I heard a zx14 rumble past me here in Brooklyn and the sound was unreal. He was running r77's so I went with them. I got titanium with the carbon fiber end caps. All of my carbon fiber cans, well two bikes previously with Muzzy's anyway, started to get really porous as the resin degraded over time and I thought screw it, titanium is plenty light and I'm not racing anyway. I threw them on half expecting to put in the low(er) volume inserts but never bothered. They sound really nice; very bass heavy at lower rpms with a pretty good shriek way up. At hiway cruising rpms they sound nice with enough sound to be noticed but nothing obtrusive until you whack it, then it screams. As far as performance goes, it felt like they opened up the top end just a bit and everything else feels pretty much the same. There is more of a of a feeling that you're on a motorcycle and less of that hypersmooth turbine feel, which I sort of miss. Nothing bad at all, just a less contained exhaust signal. And the weight saving is considerable, I should have noted the difference.

And I should have responded to this in accessories, but here's where it started....no hijack intended.

As for the turbo guys, I just like hearing what they're up to and I'm sure they'll be here.

By the way, thanks for getting this all going here, it's looking good.

You're welcome and thank you...

The R-77's are Yoshimura, right? -bg

Just back from a bikeless weekend; would have posted sooner. Yes the r77's are yoshis and they were worth every penny as far as I'm concerned. They're the only performance mod that I'll probably make, and as I said they didn't do a whole lot performance wise but the bike just sounds so much better and the the look and weight of the stocker howitzers was more than enough to lever my wallet open. One thing that I didn't mention is that you DEFINITELY feel the weight loss. I may just weigh the stock pipes and if I do I'll post it.

JayFell:

I've been looking at the Yoshis myself. Do you have a Power Commander? If so, did you find a map for them?

One thing that was steering me towards Brocks is that their customer service seems to be impeccable and it looks like they can provide great PC maps.

Thanks! -bg

Brock's seem to be the way to go as far as mapping goes. Everyone seems to have great things to say about their maps as applied to their exhausts. They look great, that's for sure but I've never heard one in person on a 14. Like I said, it was the sound of the Yoshimuras that sold me and that was purely an aesthetic decision. Sometimes I wish that had gone with Akro's, but in the long run all is fine.

But on the other hand, I do not have a pc on this bike and really wanted to avoid it along with hardware mods. This is only my third fuel injected bike and I made a lot of mod mistakes on the other two, including messing around forever with mapping. I wouldn't mind getting in to the machine's brain a bit but unless hub moves in down the street I have a lot to learn on that front. This bike is just so close to perfect that I'm leery of doing much to it that might even conceivably de-stabilize it. Not that a pc is boring and stroking or anything, I'm just inclined to leave this one alone. More or less.

Not that a pc is boring and stroking or anything, I'm just inclined to leave this one alone. More or less.

JayFell:

Sounds like you've made a sensible decision. -bg

http://www.fi2000r.com/page.php?page=41

Chart my load. Here is the ratio you want to chase. I amah 14.5 kind of guy is about all I need. You can shoot for the lower numb beers is I'll sit, sip and watch use is all play 3 wire variables up the load(s). If you are running Mozilla, the trick is to hold Ctrl down, then if you have a roller mouse, you roller either way to view the photo/print/etc., as in expand and contract the page.

Everyone wants that bung-02 and if you read the 02 explained, I am just pulling mine out of the trailer and gonna yuck it up you bring that bung......

Get her done is get a lane!

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/9/2009 @ 7:03 AM *

I almost came home crying in my helmet. Just kidding is more like stunned at the price for an idea. I am dragging the guts of a coffee pot to an electronics store. I left it in my back pack. I am trying to build a, Wheatstone or a Thevenin. I tell him I have some parts out of the bean cooker and if I am missing something is here I am for the other parts, or more like I thought the guy would know what a Wheatstone was? I said I think I need to build this and this, then add this and over here you got this and I thought it would not be that big of a deal.
I said I wanted to use the clock out of the coffee pot. He goes, I have no time for this. You go see the electrical contractor, I have my own contracts here is get out of here was more the motto. I said, not shit? 60 grand to walk in the door with a clock redo? I go, it's just Ohm's Law and he goes, this is no high school science project and then it hit me. To remove it from the main board and start fresh was just a bit much for him.
I looked at all that formula just to figure out the 4th variable and now that I have it, now watt?

He was right. I've been reading the stuff over at Ridge Rider's site or who knows? All I know is they have that Busa figured out by flashing the ECU. Poor Ridge, he made comment the same as, "The Hand" being he was talking to a wall; where a guy just wants his limiter removed; not too much else. I mean the tuning and all, but more it is all that work and it is better off that work is for you and whoever shows up can take it or leave it. Probably why I goof more is the Hand and Ridge have been there, done that.

I have a HowTo I am trying out. If it works, I'll cut it up, show you watt I did. You can see the same approach where if there is any flash going on, it's more or less flash the backup. And they said the GPS lost in the 1/4 if you hack it. So, like I said; the bike runs a whole lot of smooth when it is bone stock faster.

The latest raw data I have for you is more or less is, "The Last Limp Loop." Those of you reading over at Ridge Racer's site, reading all the good goings on over there with the proper way of keeping the bike from going limp is do not follow me.

Basically, I created events that mimic the abstract in the book. One shuts off the low speed. The other code shuts down the high speed. I've learned more what the bike does in the generic as what I have read is when your generic computer hung Otto has a black box tied tight to it's ball sack is you try to tune the bike, it ties a stronger not on the sperm count.

Data is correct. You hack that pop deal and she goes fat is because she is limping and you think you are all happy now is you keep de-tuning the bike into limp or backup. I can fell the reins being pulled back seat of the pants.

The changes more or lesschooled me on the fly. When you more or less cause the analog failure event, believe it when it says [pg 3-43 is pick a backup]; the spigot is off on the low speed jet or the fuel delivery is last keg standing on the upper food chain. You ain't gonna get years!

So ah-hacking we will go is no can do. Well, the more I hack, the more limp she modes. Once again, I have to revert back to stock, being; the other way of riding this bike is one too many hacks of over fat de-tuning. You are at the mercy of the piggy = So as not to code limp.

You see (6) is you see limp fat is the lowest read number is the sea/saw rich is lean/fat is a high/low volt number:

Rich = 0 ~ 5v = Lean are the 10ths of volts to riches, which is, the linear swing is; lean is my ride.

WATT did I learn? Every step on the Backup side of said wordage page 3-43 (Right column) > Walked the practical event as stated for each code. In other words, we have a problem Huston, we have the FSM to communicate back to the space lab is the space between my head is I think I left a lot of that back dare at the last crash.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/1/2009 @ 11:49 AM *

My raw data began yesterday morning. I needed to find a certain bike and thought I could find one close. So, I ventured out where I did not put myself into a position of filming code noise changes [finding by accident] or throttle angles, signing off WOT squats and whatnot. No, this was more of another [bye accident] playing code breaker again.... "Right Ear..." Play as you read is by accident did I find this part right here at the end of this wire... "I GOTTA DO IT!"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KABY2cbr-I&feature=PlayList&p=B7C506D880D27B9F&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=2

"I can't take it any long gear. I hate this part right ear....".......... "Real Riders" "Never look down." "I hate dis part right here is the WARNING BANNER is OUT is YOUR LIGHTS are out" > If you attempt this tune!

Wait for Video... Enjoy the, Me/You Sick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNzDBcIOOVg It is scary and I lurched forward learning the hard way. Nothing I couldn't handle. I'm just saying this is a WARNING away from stock configuration.

Figured I'd dump this post in here, give you raw data. More info on the tre toggling. This morning, I could finally take a loop on a ride of a very dangerous back road. I think I counted 3 sails off to la-la-land is plant the wheels front first would make the IOM TT jumps look microscopic. If I could run that road for a long enough time, I'd chicken out on the one jump that when you land, the bumps on the road will make you wobble like hell, if not the other two jumps that you cleaned. I should plant a camera on the front end and take a run at 'em.... Yeah, Rightttttttttt.

Anyway, I kept on pulling over to move the Tfi pots in half increments. I shut down/stepped up the accel pot and the bike just would not cut smooth. In other words, she shot fuel in, it was more an abrupt throttle I wanted to clear. It made it more unstable [smooth transition wise].

Now, I start to pile on the codes. Here I am on the semi Wot and lift. I can feel that bottom end change. You can fell it drag down as you lightly lift off the throttle. Then you give it throttle and there is this return of that lag but just in a how can I say, 'a bit cleaner limp' just for a bit.

Once I toggle off, shitizz hold on! We are back to some instant throttle. Yeah, strange. OK, here is what I could do, [say nothing] z-bomb me not. Same-Same occurs. See, someone is not getting dis bike zapping the tre/z-bomb does to the bike, read the book it says it right dare if you can find it.

I literally lit off 6 hacks, being the Tfi switching is instant; but the hacks take time to compute so they take roughly 5 seconds or less. I've completed one round of tuning, where I need to go out again to run without the accel in play at all. So, with all the switching I made during this riding loop, I came back with the z-bomp running [only] and again, this will be more you think it runs the same deal as the tre. See, you went nowhere if I kept on shutting down the codes that brought the more responsive tune back to ________ Fill in the Blank.

Note: I have no clue what the z-bomb does. The website is vague as to how it works, or if it codes the dash. I know it hooks up to the main sensor. Other than your generic code, I have a hacked throttle body that should be coding. My z-bomb theory codes my dash. If that z-bomb @ $145.00 does not code your dash, that is for the 1000 Honda and Kruz has the bike. If Kruz has the manual or I head to a Honda dealer, read the code page... Cough Right. Only your hair dresser knows for sure.

Data is correct. Check this out. Since the hack to the GPS has a code, the performance removes the slight air lag, being the sub has to fly open faster. So the fuel map just signs off on the rapid and clears the lag. She hauls like you go, wow, that's cool. Then you toggle off that code. It gets better.

When stock, you have this throttle nose dive for a split second, being the fuel map is back to stock and reading the slow lift of the flies. On the throttle apply, the bike performs where you think the hack is the hot setup. Then you lift, toggle off, crank open the main plate.

All of a sudden, you have this bucking stumble or the instant air transition lag. Hold on to your gonads; the bike then really takes off. Once again, the 8-second club is hack free.

Golly G, Go Mear Pile! I should have saved that $$ for dinner out.

From the lips of the Pee Niz, taken from the loins of the swingsteer. Assfactor as I can tell from this last run, I think I can narrow down the best of the 3 for right now. This may change at any time. Next test might scotch the raw ass from my data:

1. GPS ~ c25 = Good (6)Lock
2. TPS ~ c11 = Better [FI] flashing dash
3. SUB ~ c32 = Best Performance [N] locked

We are discussing set of the pants; cable apply w/toggle on ~toggle off. We are discussing bike:

A. No Subs or shaft.
B. Mild exhaust w/cats.
C. No codes.
D. Regular gas.
E. Licks her free.
F. Screen mesh off A/C backing.

Speaking of elixirs; You need to be aware of the latest and I had that covered long ago (in the '06 days). Only here again, I expose the same "generic DFI;" as if I do not speak open book so I cover my ass explaining their abstract against the book abstract. Not my fault someone is not reading the practical event to the process.

Kruz might find a buck fifty elixir a bit over the top for his 1000. Just M2c. Key fob code wordage: "Why R Open Ear Else Short." Z-Bum'ear is way too expensive if co/wrd UP is not addressed first is a click away.

Limp of the TPS reads out of the FSM: 'Sets timing/Limps to D-J method.' Well yes, most limp someway, somehow. Best I can explain is that out of the tones and response, "N" clears up a lot of throttle apply problems the others create.

I'll take, "Limps Pie Know Well" for 150, Alex.

I'm just fascinated with RR's little informative post. I could read volumes. Anyway, this test was to try a combined 3 spikes, then try 2 spikes in combination there of.

Now, of course we are messing with the 'z-burn' with that price tag and I'm going to experiment shortly with an on the fly setup using the TPS. As the warning banner raises, this was a most dangerous test and to recognize and appreciate the analog, you do not want to attempt this move WOT so ever!

Here is why: There is none wattsoever, is that smooth linear transition, but one full hard snap to the throttle whack. It has both a too severe blow to the engine upon instant WOT. If this setup were to be used over and over like the sound and feel I experienced, plus that subless loss removed; once the throttle plates are open and no linear transition of the TPS is present, there will be a tear men dose of hammering of the engine >> DON"T GO DARE!

Dare I better backup a little. There are a variety of combination's of 3 variables [4 really*] I can use. Select the best drive-ability of [4*]-3-2 or 1 combination. For example:

1. TPS/N/(6)
2. TPS/N
3. TPS/(6)
4. TPS/Alone*

Strange, but I found a very smooth TPS/(6) combo; a sloppy TPS/N as with the other 3 all in play. And yes, I need more riding to verify. Things might change. These are very short, wash on/wash off combos where I am riding less than a 15 mile loop. What I will try tomorrow, will be to set up a more permanent type TPS combo, where I might have a single event at the TPS? That is more where my question is headed now. You lose the dash either way with a flashing FI (tps). You lose the analog and the digital might be too abrupt, 'engine attack wise;' unless there can be a way to keep the analog in play. The problem is, "3wV strikes and you are out!"

Not something I recommend you try. In fact, I may abort this TPS all together, being the sound I heard was not music to my ears. I have to chase a NAPA part or this mod would be done within minutes. This may take awhile. Hopefully by late weekend I should have an answer to my question(s).

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/17/2009 @ 8:36 PM *

owwwwch. I can imagine an instant of some hard lugging going on. I hope your at least hitting it from 3500 rpm in first second gear?

Actually, it was normal throttle apply. I may have a tendency to snap the throttle open, but I'm sure that engine was under 3.5k. I just came back from setting more glue up to the push/pull. I'm might have 3 different settings off this one push/pull switch or it boils down to one. See if I can eliminate that abrupt bump.

Here is where I would find the wire diagram a little confusing. Pg. 16-45 shows the sub and main share the same ground. Watt reads on the page and what is wired from prong to prong shows two conflicting wire-ups.

This is where the engineering exceeds my little pea brain. I wonder if it matters or not; how the 3 wires out of the sub/main sensors line up against the FSM. I would think a loop is a loop. I wonder if you crossed wires, you would, "un-engineer" what book reads or how the bike wiring is setup.

Either way, the point here is to note in your FSM the wire colors you see now and to match that wire to the FMS's diagram. Color code that note so on the reassembly, you did not cross wires. This post is more, how you removed any wire(s) out of a connector or a sensor if say you were in the diagnosis of the troubleshoot to ground or your, 3wV.

Huston, we have liftoff. So far if you've been following, we have a few 'phantom' codes that read off of others. For example, we had a cam code throw us a curve. The cam and crank sensor tie-in together. So the move was to change the cam sensor? "The Phantom Wallet" says.... Keep that thing in your pocket!

Once again, jumbled wires could pop another phantom code. That wire diagram shows how bot the main and sub sensors are just as tied to each other as the crank and cam sensors. Troubleshooting style is remember the phantom wallet on the other folding out of the wire harness to who helps with the other?

The engineering on this beauty is so fascinating. She becomes more confusing the deeper I go. Now, I am at a point to question; who over-rides whom be the phantom code? I am about outhe door before the heat pulls the water out of the protection I wear.

Great Read.Cheers.

Thanks, Romans. This is for your tuning/limp FactorASS HAs a matter of fact, reversed the engineering on this test ride loop.
Today was a substantial surprise! Sublessliciously, I was accosted by not one, but two euro wannabee's. They found out right quick, they had no bee'zzzzzz wax making me pull cable with such downhill body language. I had a run-inn with and Audi and a MB.

Let me set you up. I am whipping up the throttle and what do I see? Chips directing traffic on my normal loop. Squad cars all over and here I am on the throttle! I ripped a little one [on the coast up to them]. I saw something up ahead but was kind of timed on the ragged edge of that pipe winding up. They were all over today. My on ramp to the next section of the loop, had a Chip sitting there. I played it cool all legal till the two cars stepped it up.

I'm getting ahead of myself. This test loop was more a stop [pull over/adjust] and go procedure. Yes, I screwed up the wiring as soon as I pulled the lever; cabled the limp and the bucking/limp was on! I found a terrible fuel limp that would de-rail the drive chain almost. I had to pull over and stop. The test was aborted. I just did not want to start to re-wire the bike on the side of the road.

I then proceeded to run combination after combination of limps and remained in a sustained fixed setting, being I would no longer make a limp adjustment until I reached the top of the rock. Once there, I yanked my wire fluff, tried something different and did not have the tools to really do it right. I could not set the limp with the one try I thought might do it. Total wash for the day. Failed!

"Huston, we lost contact!" From the top of the hill, I snake down the twists of the canyon with the corrected altered limp. I mean, the limp was not in, 'de-rail.' I had my reserve backup that worked and was in play this time. My luck, the two camera guys that were hanging out at these corners; one was carrying his sign and camera going home. The other guy was at a more dangerous braking area, but what a shot if no one runs into him. Here, he has lens between legs, waiting.

That is when I had this white MB that hangs up the hill to run with the Lotus/Ferrari contingent. I had a mirror of a full white fender. But that squirt from corner to corner, that car was left behind. I had the limp in swing and we are on some hard turns; if you ever headed downhill on this road. Once I knew the guy was just a squid in a decent handling car, I gave him some catch up time so I could bring a little fun back in it. The Rock was packed and traffic was heavy. I crawled nice and slow past the store. A few yards up ahead, I gave a wave to the BM once we parted ways.

I began to head home on the return run, so I have that fuel bar looking at me each time I take the same test loop. As I practiced my smooth apex kind of backing the bike in, I now have an aggressive driver behind me. This is an Audi 4 door. Couple of people maybe in the car? Heading downhill, I let the front car leave me a good gap. I now have the Audi behind, about ready to cross him up. We are moving through these really fast off camber sweepers. I am in a stance of some semi-body english; in a mild like, ass half off the seat. I am going to haul into this turn and now come follow me in, Audiballs.

Once again, I am just fast enough to keep the car from passing me in a dual lane part of the section. No crazy speed. Just quick tactical speed to keep the fool at bay. The way this bike performed, it did not miss a hiccup under the multi-limp. I was nervously watching and monitoring the fuel bars. That gas tank evaporated in a too rich of a limp mode. I am still undefeated in limp mode and I was not looking for any action. I passed two cars before the lane merged to one. Audi-Hose, seen your driving skills later, Sancho!

Now back to my normal pace, I see two bars remain on the way home. This was the first time I had to stop and buy gas running my same loop. I shut the limp(s) down just to save the two bars I had left remaining. I know I had messed with one more car; they, trying to gain their 17 feet in front of me I didn't tell you about; just to sit behind the person I was sitting behind? No, I did not make any cager a friend today.

This has proven to me that the limp is safe and in an over rich mode. Only your fuel bar knows for sure. That's why you lose your mileage once you tre up. I've heard it so many times the mileage drops off but the performance gains? Wanna Bet? For now, I have aborted the TPS till further notice. Not when I can run code-less, romp the characters up the hill and come back with a bar down if not two; running my same loop. WATT and eye opener on such a short trip!

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/20/2009 @ 9:27 PM *

Thanks, Romans. This is for your tuning/limp FactorASS HAs a matter of fact, reversed the engineering on this test ride loop

Soooo When you getting a piggy ? Just think of the fun we will have.