I'm changing front and rear brake lines, Front calipers and both master cylinders.
What is/are the best tools to bleed the brakes. I like to workout but I'm not trying to get arm pumps. I imagine the rear caliper is super easy... but what's the consensus for the front. Should I start at the bottom or top etc

1. Paper towels = Soak up the reservoir of old fluid and note the color.
2. Slowly fill master with new oil from a sealed container.
3. Open farthest caliper from master cylinder.
4. Continue to pump and fill master as the fluid depletes.
5. Once you see the fluid color change or think you pumped plenty thru the lines, press the lever towards the grip as you simultaneously close the nipple.
6. You catch air in the master, the upper nipple brings back the lever. So:
a. Close the caliper nipple.
b. Open the master's nipple and purge the master with one pull towards the lever and close the nipple simultaneously.
c. Pump up the lever. Did the lever return? Repeat the one time sequence over again until the lever comes back hard to pull like normal.
d. Close the nipple by hand and know your strength or else!

This shows you how everyone over engineers a simple bleed buy using I don't know how many suck machines, where I waste your minutes jerking off the lever over and over unit I see clean it and it was 3 moves at 3 nipples and it moved open then closed all in one swoop. No tear out the threads and stretch the nipple, I see someone pump and close.

Here is the thread I used when I first bled brakes.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=ECEB300D-1372-66AE-3BC0249D310776F1&searchTerm=how%20to%20bleed%20brakes&page=1

IDK why I have not done a brake bleed tutorial. I did one for my busa.

Tools:

8mm wrench and 10 mm wrench for bleed valves.

1/8" clear plastic hose available in the plumbing dept of Home Depot or Lowe's or Ace.

Plastic recepticle to catch expressed fluid.

The technique is easy. Kaw diud a great job giving us both mastercylinder bleed and caliper bleed. Suz makes you bleed the whoole system with just the caliper bleed.

You apply and hold the brake, open the bleed valve, fluid is expressed. The lever will go to the grip. Hold it to the grip, close bleed, release lever pump up the pressure, squeeze and open bleed, express fluid, lever goes to grip again....repeat until you see no bubbles coming through the plastic hose (I find there are often some tiny bubbles that move in the line. I believe that is air that has stuck to the inside of the hose, not inside the system.

It goes like this: Squeeze, open, close, release, pump, squeeze, open, close, release, pump, squeeze, open close....

Always make sure the fluid level is kept replenished while bleeding. Fluid level should not fall below bottom of reservoir. If it does, you sucked air in and you need to start bleeding air all over.

The hardest part is to get the fluid to flow through the master cylinder after the master cylinder was drained. It seems as though there are small passages for the fluid to go through and it is blocked by air bubbles that form. A vacuum bleeder is helpful to overcome this problem. It is not to hard to to do just by bleeding normally pumping the lever as described above. Also, letting the fluid sit in the reservoir will eventually cause the fluid to flow through the master cylinder and down through the lines.

After you do this job two times you will be a pro. I have done 4-5 times. Never had a problem with air getting trapped in the system or anything else.

Start bleeding at the mastercylinder. after bubbles are gone, switch to the caliper.

You prolly will not need more than one of those small bottles but get a large to be sure you do not run out. Many people say NOT to use old brake fluid because the bottle may get contaminated with condensation. Never had that problem. I used year old fluid. Keep in in doors, no probs.

OH....and DO NOT leave the fluid level past the FULL line on the reservoir.

Brake fluid expands with heat and has been known to cause excess brake pressure which locked brake. You B screwed, man.

haha never had a problem with that not even at the track rioght after a brake bleed...just keep the level touching the bottom of the Full lineand not over.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/10/2013 @ 10:29 PM *

..also, drag, I like to cover the whole instrument cluster and the clipons and grips--everything with plastic, then put a towel or two over that. One spatter of brake fluid might go undetected and it will etch a spot in paint or plastic. On that same idea, be SURE you follow the SM on specced tightening procedure for reservoir caps. I did noyt tighten mine enough once and had a fluid drip damage my multifunctionmeter face and tach face. ...not to hard to rub out with a polish but what a PITA. The ram air covers would not be so easy to restore. You what they say "an ounce of prevention.... cover your paint and stuff up while you work.

Keep a water bucket and a sponge handy. You will need it. Flush the surfaces that fluid touches immediately. Calipers are not susceptible to etching but most other plastic and paint is.

There should be a step by step on this.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/10/2013 @ 10:49 PM *

He's replacing the lines...anyone want to tell him HOW to drain his system without a brake lever working? Just sayin.Once he empties that reservoir(and master)...all pressure action stops(working the lever).He loosens those lines...he's gonna be in a world of hurt.He's got to get it bled all the way down and out that bottom nipple.

I'd advise you Drag...remove that front fender before you do any of this...THEN..remove the brake block bolt.
Open the right caliper nipple with a tube going into a jar(or something).Pump lever till she's gone....close nipple.
Go to left caliper...install tubing on nipple..open nipple...loosen right side hose banjo(the one going over to the left caliper)(plenty of rags).Pull free of mounting.Hold up and ...this will drain MOST of the fluid from the left caliper and line.Remove line...Install new line.
NOW...take right brake line...open nipple(with tubing attached and sitting in a container)...go to master banjo...CAREFULLY loosen and allow air to enter....fluid will flow down and out that nipple.WATCH the fluid at the master banjo...Once you totally remove that line up there..it's gonna be dripping some right there....lots of rags and covered parts as Rook says.Dry the opening as needed.
Once it looks like there's no more fluid coming out that lower nipple,close nipple,loosen banjo and reinstall new line(This may in fact totally bypass your brake junction block...IDK what brake lines you're going to use).
Install upper master banjo in new line.New washers as well all around.

NOW you can refill.
If you've tightened all lines...no need to worry about leakage...though you may want to make sure as you're refilling.Just watch em.They should be just fine.It's gonna take some time for this job...so go carefully and easy with it.Better a bit slower than try and rush this deal and screw up yer paint and all.

Fill system...get a good lever...hold...and check for leaks...there probably won't be any.Good Luck Drag!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/11/2013 @ 12:37 AM *

Just what I needed!!!
Thanks guys!

@Green: The OEM calipers and MC are on their way to Canada and I removed the lines the other night. Both wheels and the front fender are off. The new MC is mounted and as soon as I receive the lines, I will mount the new calipers and connect the lines, then pour the fluid and start bleeding. It shouldn't be too bad!

Well that's done anyway!The hard part's behind ya.... Congrats!

Sorry if I misunderstood where you were at with this....good luck refilling;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/11/2013 @ 12:41 AM *

Not a problem trooper, thanks for the input!

Harbor Freight sells a killer vacuum bleeder for around
$30. It requires a compressor but it rocks.

Mad

I have a mightyVac. That seems to have been the bleeder most often recomended on the bike threads over the past few years. There's a lot of different models to choose from. I got the mightyvac silverline elite. Sucks and squirts, both. I believe the economy model is made of plastic so you might want to avoid that one.

If you want a free vacuum bleeder, check at your auto supply for a loaner. My Advance Auto loans this bleeder for a $50 deposit. Refund in total when returned with receipt.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/11/2013 @ 4:17 PM *

Harbor Freight sells a killer vacuum bleeder for around
$30. It requires a compressor but it rocks.

I got the mightyvac silverline elite. Sucks and squirts, both.

*By the way I just spent $200 plus for a handful of Ti bolt and I must admit, I feel dirty. The sad is that I'm ordering more LOL
I will weight the BST tomorrow AM for sure. Where do you want me to put the info?
I am also going to weight the Galfer rear wave rotor. It felt lighter than OEM but not by much!

"Sucks and squirts, both"...exactly what I need...I have the one way mitey vac...it's good...but limited.Have to get me the dual function one I think...thanks Rook...didn't know they had one .

I can use it inject fluid from the calipers, this is definitely what I want.

"Sucks and squirts, both"...exactly what I need...I have the one way mitey vac...it's good...but limited.Have to get me the dual function one I think...thanks Rook...didn't know they had one

http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv8500.aspx?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=MITMV8500&utm_campaign=shopzilla_r1

*By the way I just spent $200 plus for a handful of Ti bolt and I must admit, I feel dirty. The sad is that I'm ordering more LOL

I will weight the BST tomorrow AM for sure. Where do you want me to put the info?

How about on my Carrazzeria thread. Don't sweat it if you can't easily remove the brake disk carrier. I need some kind of puller to take mine off so I'm leaving it on.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=5743CE6B-1372-66AE-3B24F0C4E13C2E58

I am also going to weight the Galfer rear wave rotor. It felt lighter than OEM but not by much!

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/11/2013 @ 7:44 PM *

I can get twelve Ti for $93. Is that too much to spend on rotor bolts?

Aluminum is $36 for ten. Amazingly, that sounds pretty reasonable. torque spec is 20 ft lbs. alum will take that. That's MY BABY!!

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/11/2013 @ 8:12 PM *

You know, you have to order more than just one item or it is a waste of shipping materials.

How about on my Carrazzeria thread. Don't sweat it if you can't easily remove the brake disk carrier. I need some kind of puller to take mine off so I'm leaving it on.

Do you have to install that little piece (the one you got on top of the OEM) with the new Galfer rotor. I also got two of those on the front wheel and am not sure they are necessary!

2 questions, is it better to push fluid down from the master cylinder through the lines to the bleeder (kinda like doing it yourself) or through the bleeder upto the master cylinder?

2nd question, if the former method is the best, can the silver elite push fluid through the reservoir? The picture LOOKS like it has a couple of adapter plates for doing just that.

Do you have to install that little piece (the one you got on top of the OEM) with the new Galfer rotor. I also got two of those on the front wheel and am not sure they are necessary!

The Galfer Install instructions say nothing about installing a gasket such as the OEM rotors have. The OEM rear rotor gasket would be hanging out and flapping in the breeze with a galfer anyway. The CZ carrier is not the same shape and neither is the rotor. I am quite certain there is no need for a gasket on aftermarket wheels and rotors. Never heard mention of it. I left mine off. My CZ wheels came with CZ rotors installed and there were NO gaskets.

...so I the answer is, no. ..I guess.

is it better to push fluid down from the master cylinder through the lines to the bleeder (kinda like doing it yourself) or through the bleeder upto the master cylinder?

I have heard that the latter will eliminate or reduce the need to bleed the air from the system. Never tried it.

if the former method is the best, can the silver elite push fluid through the reservoir? The picture LOOKS like it has a couple of adapter plates for doing just that.

Great question. I think the answer is NO. The white plates in the pic are brake fluid bottle adapters used to invert full fluid bottles and automatically replenish fluid as you bleed. NO way I would use that big spill risk. There is an accessorie available where you fill a bottle which inverts and clamps on to automatically fill as the bleeder is used to suck the fluid through the master. That would seem safer...if it fits a tiny MC reservoir.. That would acheive the same goal as pushing the fluid through. But why not just replenish manually and suck through from the bleed valve?

As mentioned, never tried my MightyVac yet. I just know it can be a bit difficult to get the master cylinder flowing after it has been drained and a vacuum bleeder helps a lot.

My kit includes a suction cup adapter nozzle. Seems like that would work to push fluid through the reservoir. Just keep it pressed against the bottom of thereservoir and pump away.....hope to GOD none of the fluid squits out all over bike....too risky. Bleeding is not that hard IMO. ...and safe.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/11/2013 @ 9:27 PM *

Okay....order done...just what I need!Thanks again Rook for the heads up...63.00 total includes shipping

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/11/2013 @ 10:13 PM *

Your text to link here...

We have a bleed nipple on the master cylinder which makes filling from the top a lot easier than it is whith GSXRS which only have caliper bleeds. With a Kaw, you bleed the master cylinder and then the fluid flows down through the rest of the system fairly quickly. I like the idea of filling from the bottom though. Saves a lot of squeezing on the lever. I would highly recomend covering the top ofthe bike to protect from spatters of fluid that may be forced up out of the open reservoir.

I do have a vacume pump that I've used to bleed my car brakes (and that's why I was asking about the Mightyvac), for me its really easy to bleed the brakes on the motorcycle by yourself.

If you are going to use the vacume (and probably pressurized) bleeding, i highly recommend taking the bleeders ALL the way off, wrap the threads a couple of times with teflon tape (make sure you DO NOT get the tape below the threads or you WILL have tape in your lines). This will create a better seal when you loosen the bleeders so if you are sucking the fluid out you won't get as many air bubbles sucked through the bleeder threads (which make it seem like you still have air in the system).

I will be changing brake lines soon. I really ought to update my old brake line change tutorial because I show removal of the OEM lines doing everything possible to not let the fluid run out of the master cylinders. That is nearly impossible. Better to just drain the fluid and then refill everything. I've never had a problem draining the system and then refilling and bleeding it.

This will create a better seal when you loosen the bleeders so if you are sucking the fluid out you won't get as many air bubbles sucked through the bleeder threads (which make it seem like you still have air in the system).