Finally getting around to doing the tutorial on brake bleeding and it strikes me that while bleeding the calipers, it is not unlikely that air bubbles could float up to the MC. So seems it would be best to bleed the calipers first and the MC last.

Am I right or wrong about that?

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I take paper towels, suck up the rez with old fluid; clean the inside; stay away from the hole sending something down there; fill with fresh fluid; ever so not even move the lever; I see bubbles coming up; the fluid pushes what was absorbed out of the hole on cleanup; the slight tug is more take a long piece of hair and pull the lever; that's how much you want to move the lever so the release pushes the air up and out: try.

I then open the farthest caliper from the master; pump away at the lever; fill rez as fluid lowers; watch the fluid change colors to the fresh; close nipple on the last squeeze of the lever and hold: do no release.

I do no worry about air up the line say; because when the pumping begins again, the air is out and all is flowing is fluid; not air; IF I opened the nipple too much; the threads now are too wobbly; let air come up the threads; the fluid causes a vacuum: which pulls air up between threads: makes you think there is air still in the line: think.

I move over to the closest caliper of the master; open nipple; start pumping; fill rez as it depletes; pull the lever for the last time I watch for fresh looking fluid looking good; close nipple; because I saw: no bubbles on the last pull.

I fill rez to the top line; rubber gasket all clean and dried; set back to memory; drop the rubber first; nylon ring next; cap last; snap tight as if to click the fingers: so as not to distort the rubber; because it is more a push along so much to seal; not wrinkle the rubber: think.

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I take paper towels, suck up the rez with old fluid; clean the inside; stay away from the hole sending something down there;

makes infinitely more sense than sucking down the old fluid via the bleed valve. why put all that wear on the levers and pivot bolts? also, yes, there is usually sediment in the bottom of the reservoir so why suck that all down the pipe? if you're changing fluid, the fastest way is to just soak it up with a clean towel or some sort of squeeze bottle.

IF I opened the nipple too much; the threads now are too wobbly; let air come up the threads; the fluid causes a vacuum: which pulls air up between threads: makes you think there is air still in the line: think.

Have seen it every time. There are always those tiny bubbles coming through the tube. Doesn't seem to have caused me a problem. So all that is is air that gets sucked past the bleed valve threads? interesting.

So are you saying that it is not necessary to open and close the bleed valve between pumps? Doesn't the lever just swing in and out with no pressure at all after the first pump if you leave the bleed open?

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/16/2013 @ 4:42 PM *

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So are you saying that it is not necessary to open and close the bleed valve between pumps?

That is correct. That shit is probably auto industry fallacy. Bikes were mechanical drum brakes until the 1960's say. I have no clue if the biker took the same auto think? It's not how I do it.

Doesn't the lever just swing in and out with no pressure at all after the first pump if you leave the bleed open?

Yes, but think how a bicycle hand pump works. The little hole at the top next to the rod? When the leather washer is pushed by the rod: ----< it seals as it spreads to hold the air from moving back out the little hole, yes? When you draw the rod back up, the seal collapses up the tube, the air in that little hole is like that pump hole, wink-wink 14.7 psi in [liquid form] moves instead. Get it? The bigger hole is the gravity feed/return or as you pull the rod up with leather seal being a two-way-switch. Make basic sense?

Look at how you are moving fluid instead of air. This master is a simple pump moving liquid like we have a well pump now? Same principals, different designs moving liquid and air say. So say we have zero air bubbles thru the threads, we hardly open the nip. We know the nip is open because (1) the fluid is solid going out and (2) when we stop to fill, the hoop in the bleed line off the nip is going to suck fluid back in, because when you start pushing more fresh at the lever, there are no bubbles but fluid moving again and (3) you can close the nipple before the lever reaches the grip: show me the bubbles.

That's how simple the trick is... Take the Old fallacy stretch my threads over and over on every close? No thanks I have an easier way.

Signed,

The Dissucker Titty Tool Twister Reach Around after all is said and done is done before you get yours outta the box it came in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiCGcsv-aL0

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Finally getting around to doing the tutorial on brake bleeding and it strikes me that while bleeding the calipers, it is not unlikely that air bubbles could float up to the MC. So seems it would be best to bleed the calipers first and the MC last.
Am I right or wrong about that?

Looks like I was thinking right. Not the order as described in the SM but the way it will work quickest in most situations.

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Looks like I was thinking right. Not the order as described in the SM but the way it will work quickest in most situations.

Look at it this way. If you pump the master, close the calipers down, feel a hard pedal, then no, you do not need to bleed the master last.

If say you have a questionable lever feel from what you remember, then yes, master is last [IF there is a soft pedal], the lines show no air at the caliper nipples, then yes, the order is m/c last.

Make sense seeing 2 variables?

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Hey D.K. I have a manual vacuum pump if you wanna borrow it. I'm in Bastrop now though. lmk...