Afer a bit searching I found the place, again.

I still have my ZX and was wondering if someone could take front and side pics of a ZX w/the LSL Bar Kit and a rider on board. I could then compare these to pics of my bike and see if the change is enuf to warrent spending the money. $400ish dollars is a lot of dough on a maybe. I have serious issues with my hands and arms that are forcing me to sell the bike and I really don't want to. This is my last ditch effort... THANX, RON

Hello Ron-I've got pics on this site-but not with me on it,I can say that I've really liked my setup.There are several ways to go with the kit.First off-how tall are you? I'm 6'1". With my setup,I COMFORTABLY sit almost straight up-a little leaning forward-but the weight is completely off my wrists.My riding position is all the way forward to the tank(no,it doesn't crunch anything!).I am able to sit with my left hand resting on my left thigh while cruising,and steer with my right hand gently resting on the throttle.If I choose to lean in,for cornering and acceleration,no problem there.If you go onto their website,you will see the bar options for ANY bike kit they have.I wanted the most pullback and modest height I could get.I went with the SUPERBIKE HIGH BARS.They substituted these for their stock "kit" bars-but I had to contact them and tell them.All the lines fit fine-they will tell you that the only bars they've tested the fitment on are their stock kit bars.The Superbike bars will fit with the lines they supply.I enjoyed the clipons,went to genmars,then heli bars,then helis AND genmars together-finally to the LSL kit.VERY VERY comfortable.I recommend Lsl for taller people-you would think it would be the opposite-but I got tired of laying on the tank to stretch and such.I installed a throttlemiester as well,and I can set that at cruise speed and kind of rest on the tank with my forearms,and hold onto the bars at the clamp with my hands.Really great for those long,open areas of sweepers and straights.I wouldn't give up on yer 14 just yet!!

You might explore convertibars also, they have more rise and flexibility than the LSL. I've got the LSL bars, like 'em better than stock, but wish I'd heard of the convertibars first. I saw them on another 14 and was pretty impressed.

I also have the LSL kit on my 2008 14 and they made me actually enjoy riding the bike. It does not hamper my playing what so ever but then I have always had nakeds so it now lets me sit like my nakeds do but with a lot more plastic.

Thanx for the help guys. I'll give the LSL's a try. I have a good friend who has a motorcycle acc shop and he will sell me the LSL kit for cost + shipping and tax. A possible fix doesn't come any cheaper than that....... Thanx again, RON

You could try Helis AND Genmars together-they will fit on there both.You just need to buy 4 4"long allen bolts to mount them with.Cheaper than LSL's and reasonably comfortable.You're gonna need to remove the ignition switch from the stock triple tree.Do you have a service manual?It can be a bit intense and frustrating trying to get it off the tree "by the Book".

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/3/2009 @ 7:40 PM *

Thanx for the warning on the switch. I'm a Porsche tech and have done ign switches in 2 Boxsters and a 996 in the past 2 days. Is it cheating if you practice on German stuff first????

Whatever will help!!!!Best to have a table vise-I didn't.You may have to modify the bolt accesses(I had to cut them off so I could get to the bolt heads and use a chisel to loosen them out).With the supplied hardware in the LSL kit,it worked out just fine-LSL bolts worked and cinched up like stock.Couldn't tell the housing had been modified(underneath).You might want to check the angle as it is right now of the switch on there-right where it comes down "against"(not actually touching,but close) the steering stem housing there.See how it clears the casting there as you turn the bars?That's how it will sit in there with the new setup-just like stock there.I'd make sure you check that when you install the switch and triple tree back on the steering stem.You don't want that part rubbing on the stem housing.(it won't if it's in there right). You will be using your stock bar ends? You're going to need to buy a set of inserts-7/8".OR....you could cut the welded inserts off your stock clipons,and weld them in there.I bought ACERBIS inserts-you have to cut the large ring off,just on the inboard side of it(towards the inside of the insert).You'll need 2 4" allen bolts to fit the bar end on the insert.(that's how I did mine anyway-someone else here with the LSL kit may have a different way?)Just be careful you don't lose the small end down your mounted bar-you'll probably NEVER get it back!!!Assemble it all together with the bar end weight on there,and slide the slightly tightened unit into your handlebar,then tighten down.You MAY have to REMOVE one of the insert's long part that rides on the inside of the bar to get the tightening piece to screw up into the unit.No prob-it will still tighten up fine with two or three tines in there(I had to remove two of them).You'll be removing the switch housings as well.The stock clipon has a predrilled hole for the housing "nub" that's in the inside of the housing.Your kit bars will not have this predrilled hole.If you don't plan on EVER(unlikely)turning your switch housings to be more comfortable in relation to your bars,then you can drill that little hole in there.I went through SEVERAL adjustments with my bars to get them in the most comfortable position-I filed that little nub off.The housings won't turn when tightened-so removing that piece is alot simpler than redrilling every time you change bar position!!With the LSL bars on there,the ignition switch wiring harness may be "stretched" some-I removed the "clip" that secures it to the forks,and folded the metal bracket down and out of the way so the wiring wouldn't be rubbing on the bracket.Tucked the connectors down into the midfairing with enough room to not pull when moving your bars right or left.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/3/2009 @ 10:22 PM *

I have the LSL bar kit. I'm 5'5" so I don't have very long arms. I love the lsl bar setup.

Thanks to PetDoc's help, I bought them too. and I'm 6'4". They work great! I cut off all the tabs to allow for bar adjustment too. Don't grind them all the way, or the collars will slide on the bars included with the kit, AND with the Renthal bars. Getting the ignition switch off the bars was not a big deal. The guys at LSL were a big help telling where to drill to get the antitheft Kawi bolts out.

I used my stock bar ends, and just put a bolt/nut through them with a piece of 1/4" fuel line about 2" long that fits inside the bars. tighten the bolt on the outside and it pulls the nut tight on the inside pulling the fuel line tight, and and holding the ends on. Works well.

Next look for a connie seat. I just got mine and it completes the confort level.

Thanx again guys. My friend with the acc shop was going to call Spiegler on Monday and order them for me........

Long story short he's home eating painkillers like they were candy. It seems he decided to get in a pissing contest with an Oak Tree and a bit of fence Sunday while on a dual-sport ride. As soon as he's ready to go we'll order the pieces parts..... RON

I am smack dab in the middle of my LSL kit re-fit, and I can warn you that it is not for the faint of heart. If you plan to do the whole job yourself I hope you are the kind of person who enjoys puttering and being inventive. There is a fair amount of stuff that you will have to be inventive about. I also got the Superbike High bars, and it is a pretty time consuming process to properly swap over all the controls and switch-gear, and re-route the wiring and lines accordingly.

I'm not trying to scare you off the job, but if you think it is a quickie re-and-re swap you may be in for a surprise. I will be glad when I am done, right now the ergos seem like they will be VERY similar to my ZRX (that has risers). That is a good thing!

Now all I need to do is find one of them dratted Concours seats...

Good Job-That's my setup as well.I love it.It was a bit of work-but got it figured out okay.Everything fits just fine.Any probs just PM me-sounds like yer doin okay!And I think the Connie seat finishes off the mod excellently!Get ready for ALL DAY FUN!!!(with NO pain!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/14/2009 @ 10:10 AM *

Hey blue, what did you do with your clutch line? It kinda... very nearly 'folds' at full lock to the left, and I am not sure how I can force it with the clip to behave in a better way. I know full lock only happens moving a bike around in a garage kinda thing, but... What did you do with it?

Also, did you 'split' the wiring harness on the left with the ignition stuff going one way and the rest going the other? Did you end up laying the connection plug directly on top of the ram-intake and then carefully bolting the dimpled dash on top of it? I haven't test fit that part yet...

I ran the clutch line on the pilot side of the fork tube,not on the front of the fork tube.I removed the clutch line holder wire(thats mounted on the frame by the air cleaner).The switch wiring went on the outboard side of the fork tube,the two pronged plug coming under the wiring and over to connect.The ignition switch wiring I ran down forward of the fork tube and over to the connector and rested that in the midfairing(that clear plastic cover on the connectors).I tested the pull on the wiring when done at full right and left,and adjusted so it would not yank anything,then used a black ziptie to secure the cables and hose together.I've got some pics I'll put on tonight-gotta go to work right now.As you adjust your bars,the tolerances will change,so if you do adjust,check your cables and such again.I removed the little "nibs" inside the switch housings so I could turn the housings to custom fit with the wiring.When tightened down,they work perfectly with no movement at all.Will post pics tonight[IMG]http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss176/blufire_photos/4-14-I know-my bars need another paint coat again.And that banjo bolt's gotta go as well.It's not THAT bad looking without the Flash on it!!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/14/2009 @ 10:17 PM *

Thanks for the pix. I planned to do a complete step by step pictorial of my entire swap, but it was just too draining already having to do it in someone else's basement.

I think I have pretty much everything on the bars sorted out - just waiting for a machinist buddy to make me some plugs to act as bar end mounts. I am then going to try to convert the throttle bar end to a home-made Throttlemeister after that.

In the meantime I am slapping on a relayed accessory box with fuses and the works, I should take some pictures of that. I will run 6 separate lines to the front to act as anything I will ever need power for, woohoo! I already have vest, grips, radar, 12v accessory plug...

blue, looks like I'm getting the LSL kit with the higher bars too.
I'm also re-using the stock bar ends for now. The installation/modification of the Acerbis inserts you mention to allow the use of the stock bar ends have me a bit confused but I'll figure it out once I get there.
Just wondering if I end up getting a Throttlemeister if it will also install into the Acerbis inserts. Seems to me it should but do you have any experience with this?

OK. blue, I searched and found you did install a Throttlemeister. Straightforward install into the Acerbis inserts?
blue, kaibosh, anyone, I'm still not sure if I should order the higher superbike bars with the LSL or go with the standards. The higher bars give another 1" up and 3/4" back and are another inch wider so I'm concerned about the wiring and cables being long enough.
Are the wires/cables basically at their limit of stretch or is there still just enough slack that it isn't an issue? I'll probably own this bike a long time so I have to think long term. Thanks.

GSRON, how did your LSL install turn out? Any issues at all? You used the higher bars?

You will like the superbike high bars.That's what I used.The brake cable(s) come with the kit.Everything fit perfecto.Throttles,the whole nine yards.I only cut off about an inch at the ends(of the bars) so I could insert the acerbis inserts in there.I must say...with the inserts,it takes a tad of imagination to get em in there without drama...you can't let the sleeve locker fall off the end of the bolt deal...or it's bye bye sleeve locker.Just go slow and slide/tighten as you go.You may also have to cut one(or two) of the slotted metal sleeve parts off to get it to slide in okay.(opposite each other)Get the bolt started first before trying to slide the unit into the bar end.
Also...my throttlemiester never did actually work the same as if it were mounted in the stock clip-on end.It will take some adjusting at the insert bolt as to how far in you go with it.I couldn't "lock the bolt" down to the instruction's values.For some reason,the bolt/unit/sleeve deal just wasn't exactly how throttlemiester intended.But I put some locktite on the bolt,and it stayed okay even though it wasn't tightened all the way in.And the TM worked okay,but it wasn't working the same "simple" way it does with the clip-ons.Took several turns to get er to lock in place(It was kind of a hassle).Whereas with the stock clip-on,just a half turn,and she locks right in.You "may" have to reroute your clutch upper cable to the outside of the fork tube,I can't remember just now.But I know mine ended up on the outside of the tube,instead of running through the little wire keeper on the frame.It worked fine,no problem not having it in the keeper.

DO NOT loosen any of the triple clamp bolts at the lower clamp!!!!!!!

The Acerbis inserts have a "larger" ring at the one end of the sleeve.It's your call....but if you leave that on there,you will see that metal ring between your bar end and the throttlemiester.I cut mine off the sleeve,right where it connects to the straight portion of the sleeve.That way you can slide the sleeve in there flush with the bar end.That may be why the TM worked the way it did on mine?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/18/2010 @ 2:39 PM *

Thanks blue. I appreciate your time.
The Acerbis inserts sound kind of "iffy" to me. I planned on re-using the stock bar ends 'cuz I like the way they look compared to the Spiegler bar ends. I also wasn't sure I'd ever want a Throttlemeister. Maybe because I've never tried the Throttlemeister it seems awkward to use, especially if you turn it on and off a lot as I see myself doing.
But it would be nice to have the Throttlmeister option and I assume there would be no issues when used with the Spiegler bars. The Throttlemeister ends look good too(paint over the red stripe) so it seems a good combo for me.
Thanks too for the higher bar info regarding cable/wire routing/length issues. I'd really like the higher bar but not at any expense to function. Your routing/slack sounds good enough. Each bike can differ a little I know. I'll take the chance with the higher bars and if the cables/wiring seem too tight then I can always go with the standard bars. Hopefully the higher bars work fine so I don't waste some more money. I'd also get the bars anodized black. Same for the top clamp. I wish they would do what makes sense and sell the parts in black as standard. Why silver for the 14?That whole section of the bike is black other than some hardware.
I just hope the anodizing looks right. It looks a little brighter than the satin black. I try to make the parts look like they fit each other. Sometimes hard to do.

One other thought since you have a Throttlemeister. I've never looked at any kind of throttle lock so excuse the dumb question.
Can the Throttlemeister damage the throttle tube over time or have you heard of any issues?

First off...it's no prob helping another 14 owner.No sweat.Glad to help.No,the throttlemiester does no damage to the throttle tube.You mentioned you'd go with the standard stock bar ends.Yer still gonna have to deal with an insert of some sort....something you'll be able to use the stock attachment bolt with.Once your bars are on there..well,with mine anyway,I think I remember the reason I cut them off about an inch on each side.I believe the clutch hose or one of those lines there (maybe the switch housings wire harnesses)were pretty tight with the extra width of the Superbike High bars.Taking off just that much was fine.It didn't affect the placement of the switch housings/clutch/brake perches at all.You can customoze those where ya want em on the bars...you'll find a sweet spot that'll work.....WARNING.....the FIRST time you turn your installed bars with all the fittings hooked up...DO NOT JUST CRANK THE BARS OVER EITHER WAY TO THE STOPS.Be careful before going to the stops and make sure the banjos are gonna clear the plastic tank cover there.(or any of the installed switch housings/brake housings).You may have to adjust your bars up a tad to get the clearance IF it's going to hit right there.It may...so just be aware.No big deal adjusting though.You can turn the housings,move the bars,whatever ya need to get it set just right.You will like the Superbike High bars...guaranteed.They've got 4" rise and 7" sweep.Very nice for the long haul.Don't ferget yer Connie seat now!!!!! As long as ya just cut off the large "ring" on the Acerbis insert sleeve,it'll be fine.The grooves on the sleeve only go up the shaft about 3/4 of the way.It'll work just fine for ya.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/18/2010 @ 6:15 PM *

Yes, you have to cut the large collar off the acerbis inserts. I also cut about 1/2" off the end of the "prongs" which spread to hold it in the handlebar. I used the TM bar ends too. When I was ready to install, I had the bolt through the bar end (with the supplied washers which let you turn the throttle lock side) through the acerbis insert into the plug which expands the insert "prongs" to afix it in the handblebar.

I also purchased longer bolts than supplied. You can get them with the same allen heads at Fastenal or online. I got some that were 1-1/2" longer than supplied. I wanted to have enough bolt protruding through the "plug" that when I loosened it to take it out, I wouldn't screw the bolt out of the "plug" and drop it down to the center of the bar. But thats just me.

I didn't tighten the assembly much and tried a few times until I got it where the TM throttle lock would actually hold the handgrip throttle where it was, but release it completely when turned to the unlock position. Putting the TM-supplied plastic insert between the grip and the bar out at the end where the throttle lock is makes it work perfectly.

A trick, if you are trial fitting like this, don't tighten the allen bolt more than a turn or two after the "plug" engages the "prongs". Then if it won't pull out, put an allen wrench or small phillips screw driver into the allen bolt head and tap it gently, this should disengage the "plug" from the "prongs" enough to let you pull it out.

Once you tighten it down firmly, good luck getting it out without popping the plug off down into your handlbar, making you take the handlebar off if you don't have the right kind of a snake.

blue, privateer, thanks for the help.
I'm having trouble understanding what's needed because I've never worked on a bike with bar ends. I've never seen the part inside the bars. Thanks for bearing with me.
I went back to the Spiegler site and checked their bar ends. I thought they threaded into their bars and assumed some kind of insert was in there already. That's why I questioned the Acerbis inserts. Now I see there are no threads on the Spiegler bar ends and they just push or turn into the bar like a rubber plug? The Allen head threw me off. Dumb.
I'll probably just go with the stock bar ends now. Thanks for the tips on working with the inserts. They sound like a pain to work with though. Seems like there should be something out there that doesn't need to be modified or so difficult to work with.
Sounds like you guys used different mod's/methods to install the inserts that effects how the Throttlemiester works.

* Last updated by: KAK on 6/19/2010 @ 1:14 PM *

privateer, you also used the higher bars? No concerns about the wiring or cables being too tight?