I have a zx14 2012 model is it worth installing a clutch mod kit for street racing.

The clutch mod will help clutch life a LOT. But if you want to save money and are a DIY'er you can make clutch springs out of the blue outside R6 valve springs. Thats all I have on my 14R.

So i can replace my clutch springs with R6 Valve Springs.What about the spacer.

So i can replace my clutch springs with R6 Valve Springs.What about the spacer.

I think Brocks HD clutch springs are ~$60. If that's not cheap enough, I doubt R6 valve springs will be a lot cheaper.

I'm no expert on this but if you're not on boost, I don't think you will gain a thing by going with stronger clutch springs. If your clutch is slipping on a NA engine, it's some other problem, not clutch springs. Mine slipped because the Pazzo lever was not fastidiously cleaned and lubed...at least for now, I'm blaming it on my negligence and not the levers. However, I'll say the clutch works like new with OEM lever and very little maintenance.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/12/2016 @ 5:09 PM *

Ok Thanks

There are gains to be had i am told even with just a pipe. The drag boys pick up several mph in the quarter which tells us clutch cant handle a tuned bike. Brocks kit gives you the option for spacers in every other spring (hot street) or all 6 springs (smokin street). I havent made my final decision but i am installing one way or the other this weekend.

I shortened the bolts that hold springs and that stopped clutch slip on my turbo.

If that is a 14 in your avatar knovikov you need to post up some pics. That thing looks sweet.

Thanks man,

It is an 08 that I changed into a streetfighter for my style of riding and to drop some weight There are some pics in the turbo thread under "turbo bug bites" when installed snail last year.

Adding clutch spring pressure adds MPH through the quarter. Hooking on the street and actually using said power is another topic entirely.

Guys, sorry to revive an ancient thread but does anyone know what the seat pressure is for the r6 springs mentioned above? I'm looking for something a bit easier for daily riding than the Brocks green springs but still heavier than stock.

Cheers

OZ, while you wait for an answer, you could test a 2/4 across combo, or a 3/3 triangle, meaning, use stock/Brock springs. Who is more softer and can still hold from slipping.

Hey Hub, I fitted the Brocks super street kit (3 green and 3 black) to my 14R then took the 0.180 shims out as it was super heavy on the hand (and is still heavy but bearable). My son bought EBC upgrade springs for his 14R which are about 10% heavier than stock plus we shimmed them a little to get a little more seat pressure from them. So his lever is still relatively soft but he found that he has even less bite off the line than stock so we are looking for a compromise.

Brocks super street is 3x130 lb and 3 x67 for a total of 591lb pressure on the clutch. Stock is about 270lb and the shimmed EBC is about 312 I think. Something between the EBC setup and the Brocks would be great for a daily rider.

Thats why I was interested in the R6 springs mentioned by bgmagma as they may be suitable.

* Last updated by: OZrevhead on 2/20/2024 @ 10:29 PM *

Guys, can anyone confirm if the slipper clutch mechanism only limits back torque? Or does it also increase clamping force under acceleration?

Cheers

The slipper is like moving the clutch-center basket in reverse direction, think. All clamping load is in the CCW direction. The crank spins CW, but the basket being geared to crank, spins CCW. So the torque limiter spring washers help keep from pushing the clutch center pressure plate out when the rear wheel keeps moving in the CW direction with the crank. This stops the wheel hop by separating the plates so the lock to lock will break free.

Say you have a two piece clutch center, where the one piece rides up on a ramp, and pulls away from the clutch center leaving the plates to free up as if the lever is slightly pulled in and separates the plates just a enough to slip. So being the crank and rear wheel are moving in the same direction, it wants the clutch center main shaft to move in the same CW direction causing the ramp up trying to move the clutch center's main shaft in the CW direction.

So no spring clamping is disturbed under drive load. It's as if you don't have a slipper [design] installed at all, think. Remember, no manu is going to out and out copy one's slipper design. No matter the ramp design approach it does, it will not compromise the drive direction's clamping effect with the many spring at the pressure plate.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/21/2024 @ 12:19 PM *

I installed the Brocks clutch mod yesterday eliminating the slipper clutch and running the .180 shims/springs, and I was surprised when I went on a long ride today that that consisted of twisties, long sweepers and straight stretched, and not once did I feel that the slipper clutch was needed. I know that this mod is somewhat aimed at the drag group, but I was more interested in stopping the high rpm slipping and longer clutch life...which the slippage was remedied when I installed a new aftermarket clutch pack, and I want this clutch pack top last so I jumped on the clutch mod. The clutch lever isn't as stiff as I've read many people report across the web, and maybe that's because I was already running stiffer EBC springs before the install and I have gotten use to the heavier clutch lever.

All in all, I'd say it was a worthwhile mod especially the way the driveline is tighter and bites immediately. If it prolongs the clutch life will be answered on down the road, but for those who don't drag and mainly street ride with occasional spirited riding/street racing, this mod is definitely a must do.

I don't know what the Gen2 ZX-14 slipper's like but my Gen2 busa's never came on unless I was engine braking very hard. Anyway, I'd rather not have the slipper. I slip the clutch myself if I'm running the bike that hard.