I was curious if anyone uses upper cylinder lubricants in their fuel such as Lucas' UCL? I use it all the time in my older farm trucks with great success, I assume it would be a good preventive maintenance for the top end in these high revving monsters?

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I wouldn't.....

Why would you recommend not using an upper cylinder lubricant?
What are the pros and cons?

* Last updated by: nasty on 4/19/2013 @ 9:09 PM *

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It really doesn't need something like that...otherwise...Kawasaki would have mentioned it,I think anyway.I can't give you a 'pro' or 'con' on this.I'd just say be careful about adding oil enhancers to your engine.

I 'tried' at one point with my 07 to use Marvel Mystery Oil to clean my chain with.Yup...it cleaned it alright.Using it several times...and lubing....it wasn't long before the o-rings began to die.Well before they're useful life.Yet the bottle says "Use in engines and such...etc etc".It destroyed the rubber in that chain.Never used it again.Was supposed to be safe for top ends and all...imagine what it could have done to the seals and such in that top end?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/19/2013 @ 9:22 PM *

With all due respect, using 2 oz. of MMO (per instructions) in every 5 gallons of gas (640 oz.) comes to .003125% MMO. This has no comparison to putting 100% MMO on your drive chain. Try cleaning your chain in 100% gasoline or ethanol for that matter and see how long the O-rings last. Saying you would not use MMO because it would destroy the seals in your top end when your gas would only contain .003125% MMO per instructions is just not going to happen. MMO is NOT going to harm any seal in your top end. Kawasaki will never recommend using MMO because they don’t mind if your engine wears out sooner than expected. If you use MMO you will never have any problem with your fuel pump and your top end will look like new. The top rings don’t get any lubrication except what gets by the oil ring. MMO is a proven product that is still around after 80 years says a lot. I owned an 85 V-max that I bought new and sold with 120K miles on it. I used MMO regularly and never had any problem. I had to replace a head gasket at 80K miles and you could still see the factory honing marks on the cylinder walls. I sold it because after 20 years the styling was a bit old. Motor was still running and using no oil. I do not put it in the motor oil, just the gas. I currently use it in my 2012 14R since day 1. It won’t give you any more power but if you want your baby to last a lifetime MMO is good stuff.

Hmmm...okay....go ahead and use it then..I guess...If you're determined to;)

Thank you jdw8xb! This was the kind of smart answer I was looking for! I use the Lucas every few tanks. I'm a firm believer in the stuff. The first time I used it in one of the farm trucks it totally brought life back into the thing. Also keeping the cylinder walls lubricated is a good thing. In the winter I always used some form of cylinder lubricant and an anti-gelling agent in my diesels cause number 1 diesel fuel lacks the proper lubricants in it.

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Wit do all did respects, I'm going to work my empirical '08 14 sold @ 28k [miles] give or take; fed it fuel in the cheap seats; mixed all brands of weights and ages of oils; AFRuns; very few shims used; compression was 8lbs. off book's highest compression value; never used any additives.

NOLTT when I say that clean air and clean oil makes additives do what? I score my cylinder walls I do what? Pour a liquid to fill a line in a cylinder wall. No shit? Did he just say my liquidetergent is called fuel? Is that light sweet crude they are talking about? I think they are talking about distilled crude, like oil and gas and say, isn't gas a cleaner? Cleans my hands, yeah. Why? Aaaah nothing.

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Wait just a second. Did he just say I add more oil into my combustion chamber and the last thing I want to do is add more carbon deposits that take up fresh air that would have tanken up that shithe deposit and here is your change, sir.

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You don't have to deal with cold weather diesel fuel. Loss of power, high engine temps and scored cylinders. Basically straight kerosene. When a Diesel engine runs an afr as low as 100:1 at idle lubrication it important.
My question is it worth while to add a little uppercylinder lubricant to the fuel from time to time to clean up carbon deposits and injectors and lube her walls?

* Last updated by: nasty on 6/9/2013 @ 11:20 PM *

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Ha! I made it sound like I'm running diesel in this thing...

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Kerosine is a cleaner, a detergent, a low flash point or it would blow up too soon is the kinetic on the rise. So no, no additives. Only additive is what Shell mixes and promotes. And if you want to know how nature works besides frequencies, then chemistry is next in line.

So did I see carbon build around the intake valves? Yes. Did I change to Shell just for convenience? Yes. Was it serendipity that the carbon was cleaned off the valve, me swapping throttle bodies like it was going out of style? Yes.
So would buying the right gasoline and their chemical R&D sort of have more bucks to play with than some ex-chemist from some oil firm and now I'm lucamzoil? I have a better chemical reaction?

Did he say cutting oil was sold as cutting oil and it was AFT inna can? I think so said the lips to the ear...

"True Story"

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I fill up almost 100% of the time with shell only. If anyone EVER comes NEAR my bike with marvel I am gonna beat the shit out of them. Then I am gonna shaken baby their ass awake, and beat the shit out of them again. If Kawasaki or any IC engine manufacturer wanted this crap they would say so. They don't. It's crap. And everyone can chime in with 80 000 and I ran blah blah blah. Come near my bike with miracle and I will beat the shit out of ya. :) does this clear up any doubts as to me and my opinion on anything that should be shelved with camping supplies??

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I never said anything about cutting fluids. I have no shell anywhere near me. I have to travel 50 mile round trip just to find nonoxygenated 91.

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I think C pretty much answered that gasoline engine for you, nasty. Kerosine is a little more oily than gas, so for the bike's needs, that shell gas would be about the only upper cleaner I'd go after. Lots of bikes and lots of decades that do not use, never used, nor needed any kind of oil helper per say, as it may apply to a diesel application, but pass on the gas types like a bike.

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I think Shell would sell the same additive as Chevron.

You can stock up on both. This might be your cold start additive? The gasoline additive is some other application.

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I had to mail order that stuff for the duc and it smoothed out the high compression horrible grind noise on start. But. Dirty plugs ANYTIME she idled. I don't know. I know that adding marvel or Lucas to a bike is harmful because of not needing all that rich detergent. High rpm and solid maintenance always keeps em clean. Good gas. Good oil. No magic. Definitly no miracles.

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So, answer this. Why are all my leftside intake valves clean and all the right intake valves filthy? Except for the #1 cylinder, both intake valves are filthy.

This question has nothing to do with fuel additives. I just noticed this while doing tb sync yesterday.

* Last updated by: nasty on 8/16/2013 @ 7:24 AM *

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Port flow? Compression? Overlap? Valve cut sealing? Not certain, just guessing.

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I thought it was odd that each cylinder had one clean intake valve and one dirty.

* Last updated by: nasty on 8/16/2013 @ 9:00 AM *

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Maybe I need to be flogging her harder than I already am. Its amazing how much extra pep in her step she got from the tb sync.

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"Saying you would not use MMO because it would destroy the seals in your top end"...well...I actually DIDN'T say it would...I said it ruined the o-rings in the chain.I also said..."I don't know if"...and..."go ahead and use it if".C doesn't think it's a good Idea...Hub doesn't think it's necessary...I don't either...BUT...it's your bike;)

Maybe I need to be flogging her harder than I already am.

No, that says more rpm, more times it fired, more carbon build on the intakes. Me swapping out so many throttle body try this try that, I saw the change in the gas used. Most of it was costco gas. Then I changed over to a closer gas station [Shell] in town, than traveling those extra miles to save a few pennies. What I noticed was the lack of carbon build on every valve. It was gone. So something that sort of says, 'for every action going in, something is coming out' is going to collect on the valve, right?

Its amazing how much extra pep in her step she got from the tb sync.

I've never had such a single reaction to a fuel injected bike, whereas, a carb'd bike would not be as responsive. It truly is amazing. There are way too many bikes on here now that could use a sync and have some pep returned, no shit!

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YES ON THAT SYNCH!!!! I can agree and shout but until you try and feel the difference in throttle transitions with a well synched setup ya won't know! Everyone thinks their shit is fine TILL you synch them. Then they are always like, 'that is a nice difference'! :))) cause it is.

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And again I agree with hub here Nasty! If you had some dirty lookings I would guess the random roadtrippin gas and many miles at cruise probably didn't help. That's why ur synch and service ARE FLAWLESS IDEAS BEFORE AND AFTER A TRIP! But I always recommend that! You got it Nasty! :))

* Last updated by: Cblast on 8/16/2013 @ 4:38 PM *

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