I'm not panicking. I know there are ways to get a shank out after snapping one off and this is a lot easier situation to have to undergo the procedure than most. Just thought I would ask if anyone has any experience with this sort of thing. Products? Tools?

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Not sure Rook...I had to easy out one of my caliper mount bolts once...rounded the allen head.I drilled a starting hole into the head of it...then used the easy out SLOWLY and carefully.One that fit in there snug...tapped it in with a hammer to seat it,then turned...carefully.Your titanium bolts...IDK if you CAN drill into those?I hope so.Sorry Rook....bad luck for ya a bit...it'll be okay.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/29/2013 @ 9:39 PM *

Rook, I use a propane torch which is the hand trigger style. So with that flame snapping on and off, I am cooking the wheel but not the paint. So your type of heat has to be hot enough around those disc stud holes, not not holding the flame to set the finish off or melt the aluminum.

So it heat soak, let it goo the loc-tite so the others come out. If say you have a few threads hanging out the stud hole, again, a good set of vice-grips, bite as much as you can of the bolt. Torch that boss where the broken stud is and keep pulling, but not tearing off the vice from the stud.

This is more a grab and wait for the goo to break loose. So you are more or less loading and unloading the stud to sort of shrink it away from the stud hole and goo.

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As Hub says, allow the heat a short while to conduct to the thread area.
BTW the bolts dont look right, size, style, maybe its just the picture, what are they made of, what spec of bolt????

Grin

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So it heat soaks = Conducts as in all the way around the wheel. I also forgot to say to keep rotating the wheel so all the stud holes begin to warm up. That way you can keep rotating the studs with a few flame hits. That trick remember is to load/unload allen heads. The point is not to sheer it out by all the force on it like a regular head bolt? No, not even close.

I had to remove the rear brake disc to install the rear tone wheel on another set of rims. I kept on heating each stud up so it took time to goo up.

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electric soldering iron.
B-A

.Your titanium bolts...IDK if you CAN drill into those?I hope so.

I don't see why not? IDT it's hardened steel. Probably would not have broke if it was. might really suck if I can't drill but I think I can do that. THere are hard drill bits for steel. Might need to buy a couple if it is really tough stuff--we'll see.

Rook, I use a propane torch which is the hand trigger style. So with that flame snapping on and off,

I am very glad I chose NOT to use locktight. The original bolts had locktight on them so there is a bit left in the threads. Might need to try a soldering gun.

If say you have a few threads hanging out the stud hole, again, a good set of vice-grips, bite as much as you can of the bolt

No such luck. There are no threads outside of the hole. Good news is the hole goes right through the part. I can get at it from the front and the back. It's just 12mm deep.

the bolts dont look right, size, style, maybe its just the picture, what are they made of, what spec of bolt????

Pro-Bolt Ti Steel bolts. They have a smaller hex than a normal M6 bolt. M6 is still pretty small for a rotor, I think. Carrazzeria uses a flanged hex head bolt. Bigger head.

electric soldering iron.
B-A

.I drilled a starting hole into the head of it...then used the easy out SLOWLY and carefully

I think that is going to be the solution. I hope the shank is in there loose enough that the drill will grab it and spin it right out the back. It's not corroded. I think it might thread right out with the drill.

It's just a little M6. I'll be using my dremmel with drill press. That should be very safe. The thing I fear is hammering the punch on the screw. Sorta rough on aluminum threads. I may not really need to punch it since i have the advantage of a drill press.

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thanks, everyone. I'll keep ya updated as to my progress.

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It sheared off below the hole didn't it.So you can't get a grip on it with visegrips or anything,yes?Damn...what a bummer Bro.Sorry.

Yup. It's not corroded in there though and if the drill bit grabs it and spins it it will screw itself right out the back...I don't think this will be a problem but it is a PITA I don't need when I would like to be riding.

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I bought a heat gun for $7.99 with a coupon from Harbor Freight. It gets VERY hot, but no flame. I use it mostly for heatshrink, but I think it would work on your wheel.

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When you break the head off a bolt, the pressure is relieved. All the heat stuff should not be neccessary. Get a very small punch, preferably a metal engraving tool. Try to find a high side in the break and gently tap counter-clockwise and eventually you should be able to get the thing out. I did this with a broken main bolt on a GSXR that broke below surface. This method saved me a ton of money from not having to send it to the machine shop.

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I bought a heat gun for $7.99 with a coupon from Harbor Freight. It gets VERY hot, but no flame. I use it mostly for heatshrink, but I think it would work on your wheel.

Yeah. I got one from HF as well. Good idea. I'll try that first if it's even necessary.

Try to find a high side in the break and gently tap counter-clockwise and eventually you should be able to get the thing out.

thanks but NOT in aluminum. I plan to just drill it. Th ebit will prolly spin it out but if not a east-out bit will do it.

thanks for all the helpful support, men. This is such a pisser.

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My GSXR block was aluminum. I was just careful not to let the metal etcher slam into the block threads.

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Maybe it would be alright to try that. There is a high spot. The mount is a block about 12mm x 15mm x 18mm deep. I would be concerned about bending it. I'm reluctant to even hit it very hard with a center punch. I'm drilling it and easy outing it. If it takes a whole day and no damage, I won't be disappointed. This thing is actually irreplaceable. CZ has discontinued this, their lightest wheel, for ZX-14 fitment. It was expensive but now it is rather unique in the truest sense of UNIQUE.

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Understandable. Take care of that gem. I would love to get some CF or magnesium wheels. I could get a whole other bike for what that stuff costs! Maybe one day I will find a deal on ebay or something.

* Last updated by: dissidentdave on 5/31/2013 @ 9:13 AM *

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Fine vid there...yours will most likely turn right outta that hole.

A left handed drill bit would be a good starting point to try. The bit cuts turning left instead of your traditional right handed bit and when it grabs the bolt while you're drilling into it it will spin the broken bolt right outta there. In most circumstances it is a very successful method. Also if that don't work then at least you got a nice hole for the easy out.

* Last updated by: nasty on 4/30/2013 @ 9:14 PM *

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Whatever you do if you decide to use an easy out DO NOT break it off in the bolt! They are made of a much harder alloy and are neary impossible to drill out the broken part stuck in the bolt. I've done that couple times and its not fun anymore after that.

* Last updated by: nasty on 4/30/2013 @ 9:19 PM *

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Go down to your local Sears store and ask for a set of extractor bits. They combine the left-handed drill bit and the Easy-Out in one tool. Set your drill for slow/left. As the drill portion makes the hole, after it gets so deep, it binds in the hole and the shank will spin right out. Used them for years extracting rusted screw shanks from commercial metal door jambs. Zero thread damage.

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1. Buy a new drill.
2. Find out what speed the drill needs vs. the bolt's harness.
3. Take the dremel tool and shave the bolt flat so you can center punch the stud.
4. Use ATF as a cutting oil.
5. That new drill can be either left handed or right handed.
6. Does the bench drill have reverse? Then you are stuck buying a right hand drill.
7. If you centered the hold and can widen the material, this has more implode shrink away from the wheel's threads.
8. Trick to using the extractor... I find that most every time I bored thru the stud so I could see daylight, that twist out makes the whole shaft of the threads shrink, or does some sort of imploding, it's seems to extract itself a lot easier than a short drill depth for the extractor only.
9. And you know watt happens next... Right?
10 NOLTT

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I would over to get some CF or magnesium wheels.

If these make a big dif in performance, the busa gets BST wheels....someday when I can afford.

A left handed drill bit would be a good starting point to try.

Thanks. I'm headed back to ACE this morn....if the bit takes the shank out OR if it just makes a nice clean pilot hole....win/win situation!

Whatever you do if you decide to use an easy out DO NOT break it off in the bolt!

Had the very same thought last night. Break any bit off in there and then you will need some kind of diamond head bit or some crazy sh_t like that.

Go down to your local Sears store and ask for a set of extractor bits. They combine the left-handed drill bit and the Easy-Out in one tool.

I think I saw those at Ace. About 50some bucks. Worth it if ever this needs to be done again but I will prolly try cheaper means this time.

..and thanks, Hub for good pointers...You are right, the dremmel is my bench "drill" and it only goes clockwise. I may use it to prep the surface but IDK how much use it will be after that. It is a low/high speed dremmel but IDK if it has any kind of gear reduction for low speed. Might not have the torque to actually drill at low speed.

There is a LOT of really good info turning up on this thread. I AM HOPING this screw will not justify all the great info that I getting. Seems like about the easiest shank extraction situation that I can imagine. I'm greatful for all the info. I'll do a recap of all the advice when I get this thing out.

I had half a mind to just ride with 5 rotor bolts but I'd hate to cause any triuble withit so the 14 stays in her pen until everything is ship shape.

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When you break the head off a bolt, the pressure is relieved. All the heat stuff should not be neccessary. Get a very small punch, preferably a metal engraving tool. Try to find a high side in the break and gently tap counter-clockwise and eventually you should be able to get the thing out. I did this with a broken main bolt on a GSXR that broke below surface. This method saved me a ton of money from not having to send it to the machine shop.

Thanks Dave. This is working for me. I will show a pic soon. Much more straightforward than fancy drill bits.. It is not necessary to hit hard and the technique is best done by laying the etching tool at a low angle. This seems to not be much of a bending or denting threat as I thought it might be. Thanks again for saving me a lot of hassle.

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One caveat to the punching. I've ground down my point puncher like the pencils you use for miniature golf? Yeah, it's getting shorter with each job. That's one down is like a point like no tomorrow but behind it is meat, not a pencil tip. More like a boxer dog's neck and face. That kind of meat so the point does not flatten fast.

That brings up the danger of mushroom mashing of the stud you are trying to take out. Center won't spin obviously and too far to the thread is you mushroom out the outer thread and it bites into the hole's threads again and stops it with that last hammer blow.

So your move is to hammer upstream more towards center not near the edge and fall into the abyss of a wasted wheel. And that too says: point and aim and the aim is at a 45° angle. I haven't missed taking one out yet is the point/angle/spin it as you want to: hammer out towards the outer but aim straight. Get it? The blow is going to be straight, yes, but you want to think go round the outside, go round the outside kind of move is the blow.

That blow is the ground down point is the sacrificial blow straight down on the first mark so that is home base is that made crater. And Rook, in proportion, that crater makes or breaks the rest of the blow. To shallow and you pound out of the hole @ the 45 angle. See that walk thru?

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/29/2013 @ 7:49 PM *

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Got ya, Hub. Yep place the the tip off center as much as you dare but not too close or you will slip off or God forbid, push the top shank thread locking it into the female threads.

This scribe / hammer technique works but after the shank comes out of the hole just a sixteenth inch, I can tell the leverage is reduced quite a bit. After the shank rises out, you are not really pushing against the threads as directly. With the extra height, you are trying to push the shank over as well as turn it.

I will be trying a soldering iron to melt the locktight. picked up a soldering gun today at HF for $15. I will try that and grab with a pliers. If that does not help much, I may try dremmelling a notch on the screw threads so I can position the scribe lower for better leverage. I def do not want to crush the outside of the shank with my pliers after coming this far.

lol hope this works better than growing that avocado pit you see in the background (don't bother, that is totally a hoax).

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/30/2013 @ 9:27 PM *

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Weren't these like some kind of 'custom quality bolts' or somethin?...from CZ?

There may be some obscure connection between that 'dead' pit...and yer....'custom' bolts...????J/K;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/31/2013 @ 1:49 AM *