I read this on another forum and was wondering if anyone here could confirm that it is correct?

"If you do ever decide to go 16T on the front use part # 13144-1317. It is from a Zephyr 1100 and has the rubber cushioning for less vibration. The 14 has one stock but doesn't come in 16T. Bolts right up with no modifications."

I did a tooth down on my last bike and it was a plain steel sprocket made a ton of noise with out the rubber cushioning.

I have heard exactly what you are describing. All info is accurate however I am not 100% sure on that part #. Yes, it was aZephyr sprocket you want. PM Grn14 cuz I know he can tell you 4 sure, he used the 16T Zephyr for his Gen 1.

The noise is a whining noise mostly at certain rpm.

I have a 17T front SuperSprox without any rubber damper. No unusual noise when brand new. Now I notice a bit at certain rpm. Not bad ...but my exhaust is pretty loud too so may be a bit more noticeable on a quieter bike. A 16T should be a bit worse for noise because the chain will need to turn a tighter radius.

I'd just get a 44T rear if I were you. Actually best to change both front and rear + chain but if you don't want all the hassle and $$, why not just change out the rear? 17/44T should be about the same as a 16/41T.

I also like the look of a larger sprocket on the back. Only drawback, it will be heavier than a small sprocket. But if you go with an aluminum like Vortex, a 44 45 T will be a lot lighter than the 41T steel sprocket.

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How big do you think I can go on the back without a longer chain? I do like the idea of keeping the stock front sprocket for less noise and I also like the idea of getting a black rear sprocket (make it not look dirty all the time) and maybe some orange sprocket nuts to match the bike. motomummy has some nice ones and I have always had great experience with them. Any other recommendations?

And thanks for the reply Rook.

I used a 16t Zephyr front sprocket with the rubber bushing. I believe the part number was 13144-1317. I also used a Vortex 43t rear, both with the original chain when I had 4k to 5k miles.

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dericrey, what did you think of the difference after that mod? Was it really noticeable? How far off was your speedo?

Thanks
Dan

I tried the vortex on my 04 zx10 and it would eat them like a snack after the dealership having to warranty this like 4 times I went back to the steel they never could find out what the problem was

Cav, I did the mod 7k to 8 k miles ago so I'm used to it now. It made a difference, I like the harder hit it gives when you get on it. Front end gets up easy but manageable. My speedo was off but I don't remember by how much. I installed a Speedohealer at the same time. I used a GPS, put the numbers in on Speedohealer website then entered the number it gave me. Checked it again and never looked back. No problems with any of it so far. I like it and would do it again. In fact I want to install a quicker throttle mod after I spoon on new rubber next week.

* Last updated by: dericrey on 4/3/2014 @ 8:08 PM *

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Thanks For the replies. I'm going to do this after I spend the bucks on a new rear tire.

Any other recommendations?

I like motomummy too. They do not always have their tech info straight but great deals.

I like Vortex sprockets. That will be the lightest you will find. I had it on for about 20K miles and it still has some life to go.

Go with Steel or Ti sprocket nuts. Aluminum is not strong enough for sprocket nut torque spec--a bit risky unless you go with some lock-tight, perhaps adn check often. Pro Bolt makes aluminum sprocket nuts with steel threads. Nice but I would not go full torque on those either. I have those and I felt one turn a bit on the heli-coil insert.

How big do you think I can go on the back without a longer chain?

This is a common question. Unfortunately IDK the answer for sure but it has to do with chain stretch. If your stock chain is stretched to the 3rd mark, I think you will get a 45T in there with a 17T front if you pull the rear wheel all the way forward (maybe take the adjuster bolts right out if necessary). Can't say for sure though. Just don't go with too tight of a chain. Should droop a little with no rider on the bike.

I'd have to count how many links I used when I changed chain and sprockets. I think I went with an extra link and that had me close to the third adjuster mark when first installed the chain and new 17/45 sprockets.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/3/2014 @ 9:36 PM *

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If you go with a 16T front, that should give you the most options for gearing by changing the back without changing the chain.

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I only use DRIVEN steel...........not a fan of wearing out gears.....or changing them.

It will obvious to you the first time you hit the throttle that there is a change......it is about perfect for street riding......except that 1st is tough to manage if drag racing due to wheelies.

I have no rubber....and don't mind the little extra noise.

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I never really noticed any noise from a 16T....zephyrs....yes...with the rubber bushing.I did install a steel 16 at one time....didn't make any more noise than the bushed one.Maybe I just had a bad sprocket?=0...if you like downshifting at higher RPM and no clutch....this'll work well for you...and upshifting also....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/3/2014 @ 10:20 PM *

How big do you think I can go on the back without a longer chain?-Cavscoutdan

Measure how far your axle can come forward from where it is to all the way to the front of the slot. For every 5/8" you can add 2 teeth.

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That's good info danno thanks! I'm pretty set on going down one in the front and up two in the rear and keeping the chain that's on there now.

I think you will have a period where the new parts and the old wear in together and you'll be adjusting the chain OFTEN.

No biggy if economy is the objective. I put a new rear sprocket on with my old chain and engine sprocket and I was adjusting the chain every few days until the setting finally got to be right about where it was with the old sprocket. I did not measure the chain before installing the new sprocket but to me, seems like the new sprocket wore to the old chain.

The last new sprocket installed with new engine sprocket and new chain almost never needed adjusting. it went 10K miles and I still don't think I had to adjust it.

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