Lay it on me man.
Lets walk a simple concept and take the mystery out of the change; you removing the subthrottle plates. All we did was change the speed of the same event. Same as saying to cool the room faster, you open the window wider and let more air come in, to move things along > Cooling faster.
So if we think like that, we would think that the map should work the same, being able to keep up electrically with the matching air speed. We could probably show an air wave scale, where the air wave would act different in move, well, meaning, simply moving faster. But we still close on the same dime is that 14.7 psi. We just got there faster, made no hp, just brought that air wave to respond faster down low is that cause you hear about.
That is the effect you will feel. Lay it on you is how I am not a physicist to explain how nature runs through a perforated screen that upsets that air flow from smoothing out. If you already have not, carefully clean said air box area, remove the mesh screen from the back of the air cleaner element. This is a speed factor event that adds to the speed, you, also removing flies. That wind will slow down going through the holes. Simple enough, remove the guard and there you are playing, 'window opening more' is that event.
That increase in air speed is now twofold. The air slowing over the fly is 1. The air screen is 2. Will the pig recognize it? If that grid was well tuned it would is my guess. Now we are going to have to lay our plumber cleavage over the seat to find out if we need a grid move, we feel a stumble someplace?
If you caught my PIP video, with just the sound alone of the bike's engine note, you cannot hear the bike stumble, as if there is a loss of drive-ability, we remove screen/plates/run no pig. Then, go to the AFR video, see if you find the bike runs lean, I throw cable at it.
I am pretty much on the WOT as much as possible. Mule says no pig needed, even with the cheater 4-in-1, which helps a little > Letting out the faster air that when in. And buck20, I am dragging other eyes through this, so those thinking they need to pig up, I pile up the video and that engine note is still quiet and quick. We might, we might have a variable of a pig setting; the bike may not like. That part is on your end, which is still up in the air. Even with the pun, you would think that simple speedup breaks even, you find the map still decent enough to sit on.
Maybe I should restate that. The map may be a setting I may not like. I toggle my piggy on, she swings to that 13 dot-dot AFR and change. I feel the change and want to change right back to what the cleavage likes. I rather like the stock trim, with less wires added from that piggy. Butthat is just me.
I know you throw the 12-13 AFR number at it, she is going to spank something that comes alone better than being all in stock trim. Bottom is even stronger is stink like bull ass you know. I know there is very little change, but you still feel every slight change if you do things one thing at a time > to notice the difference. And if you did not pull the screen, you can then feel the smooth come in on top of your pig setting now. You know the smooth is running with a good map. So, that builds on top of the smooth package > Removing fly.
1. A/C = Screen Smoothing.
2. Pig = Fuel Smoothing.
3. Sub = Smoothing one more time.
4. Tre/Hack = Oopseas. Now you set the ragged edge 'hard' and there goes the smoothing of the moving, makes this move ~ Optional.
How much tune you throw at it, just builds on top of the other. I'm going to lay this much performance on the bike, we are not racing weekends, correct? We just go out on the bike, and buy the time we run an errand or ride to break for lunch, we are living in a 2,700 ~ 3,400 RPM world. We finally settle in on some road, running the speed limit, correct? The 4 mods are so low level entry for the street, you have plenty of dependability never popping off the valve cover to do any more mods than what you have now.
I think it was jj with the exhaust swaps that has that performance option he is chasing pipe cleavage. Others try a different fuel-cutter and change out to another pig-type. Now, if you have bike money to sink some change into, we can keep going. I might be your, "Joe Average," I have what everyone else starts out with and stops kind of done with the bike. I mean, you have guys [who can't leave it alone] going through parts, they swap out the OEM.
You are still making one step that is going to alter about 5 variables is what I've read. With all that said, I would still have to re-tune my pig, I make a pipe change. I would bang out the cruise-bang you see the lean swing to the rpm we cruise in. I mean, that is what you are trying to aim for > With the pipe and pig. I am so de-tuned I run without pig and she runs just assweet.
BASE [runcleavage] calls the grid move. Say, speaking about riding hard... Can you see a pimple back there? I've been chasing that boil for a weak now I'm gonna faint. Look, I'll bite down on your piggy box and you just squeeze.
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