Seems like an easy question for a first time rider. NO ONE can answer the question...... Kawasaki, My dealer (who says it's childs play) or the service department......... Here is my question.... The Kawasaki service manual states I should have my chain slack 1"-1.2" at the tightest part of the chain (I check right behind the foot peg). The problem is that the lower part of the chain sits 1/2" under the lower part of the swing arm. When I pull up on the chain it immediately hits the swingarm. This baffles everyone........ They have no idea and they just hang up on me as if I'm the biggest idiot they ever spoke with....... But the can't answer the question.... I don't want to wonder at 200 mph........ I can't get an accurate measurement in the up direction. Can anyone help me?????

Thanks

The service manual specifically states:

"Measure the vertical movement (chain slack) midway between the sprockets." (pg. 2-30)

If you're checking too closely to the foward sprocket then naturally you won't have the clearance specified. You should have between 1"-1.2" of play at the mid-point position.

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ROOK'S How-To

* Last updated by: alg8er on 5/23/2012 @ 11:55 PM *

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http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=6AE7FFEE-D56B-84E2-15072A3BDDB69729

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"They have no idea and they just hang up on me as if I'm the biggest idiot they ever spoke with....... But the can't answer the question.... I don't want to wonder at 200"...hold on now...you ARE calling Kawasaki dealers,right?Sounds like a Harley dealer to me Yer chain's way too loose if it's hitting the swingarm.Do it like Rook's post in the how-to.(as was mentioned by Alg8er ).

The Kawasaki service manual states I should have my chain slack 1"-1.2" at the tightest part of the chain (I check right behind the foot peg)

I have a Gen1 but should be the same procedure. If you spin your wheel, You may find that there is a spot where the chain gets tightest and a spot where it is loosest. It may be the difference of 1/4 " in chain slack. It can be tricky to feel that. If you can't find it, don't worry about it, there is not always a tight spot. Sometimes the tension is very even the whole way around. I paint a link black so I can tell when the chain has made a full revolution. It is pretty tough to find the loose spot without a rear stand. If you have no stand now, just adjust to the largest spec range.

The problem is that the lower part of the chain sits 1/2" under the lower part of the swing arm. When I pull up on the chain it immediately hits the swingarm. This baffles everyone........ They have no idea and they just hang up on me as if I'm the biggest idiot they ever spoke with....... But the can't answer the question....

Yes, isn't that incredible that the most basic procedure is such a puzzle to these professional people? Problem is the Pro is busy working and the rest of them are a bunch of dipshits. Hope they don't adjust people's chains. Check out the tutorial, you should measure the top and the bottom runs. Yes, the swingarm interferes with measuring chain slack as shown in the OM. NOT possible.

I don't want to wonder at 200

No, me neither and that is the #1 reason why I do everything myself. Servicing a sportbike is too important to neglect and too time consuming for highly profit motivated businesses to do well. If you need a shop, you have to make sure it is highly reputable. Not just well established. You need recommendations from people who are more experienced like race track people. People who will give as much or more a=of a SH!T as you do.

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One thing I do not see mentioned here is making sure the chain (Rear Wheel) is actually running straight.
NEVER believe the marks on the swingarm!! I have not tested the ZX yet, but previous bikes were never quite right. The swingarm marks are a rough guide only. I have a long carpenter's spirit level that I rest the wide side against the back tire and sight towards the front sprocket to make sure it is running straight. I have the Motionpro tool that clamps to the rear sprocket. Previous bike was about 3/4 of a mark off. I am sure that is why the OE chain was junk after 15,000 km's. Since then my chains lasted a lot longer.

Thanks. I've used the axle marks and Gilles chain adjusters. Chain adjusters have smaller increments but they work the same as the OEm adjusters. My rear sprocket seems to wear more on the inside. Maybe I''ll give the MP adjuster tool a try.

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Fordtech, I've heard that before as well, on my bike I checked the rear tire alignment using the "string method" and as far as I could tell, on my bike at least, the swing arm markings were dead on.

azpaleo, I had the same confusion when I first adjusted my chain and wasn't able to find any definitive answers at the time either. What I do is find the tightest point, push the chain up until it touches the swing arm, set my ruler (I use a digital caliper actually), pull the chain down with a moderate amount of force and check to see if the slack is within the specs.

If the chain hits the swing arm VERY easily, chances are the chain is too loose. When you get the chain within spec, it'll still touch the swing arm but depending on how far off your chain was, you'll feel that its not touching as much.
The measurement is also relative, measure top of the link pulling the chain up to the same point on the top of the link pulling the chain down (or the bottom or the middle of the link, whatever is easier).

A chain that is a bit too loose is MUCH better than a chain that is a bit too tight. As Fordtech mentioned, make sure the rear wheel is aligned properly, if this is your first time adjusting the chain and you're confident that the tire is straight already, you can use Hub's "counting the flats" trick, which is to count the number of flat parts of the adjusting nuts that you turn, or another way to think of it is, turn the adjusters equally (1/3 turn EACH side of the swing arm). This will keep your tire in the same alignment as to what you started, otherwise for the time being use the swing arm markers and if you want to verify those because you're bored to death, read up on the string method for rear wheel alignment.

After you adjust the chain and you think its good, have someone hold the bike, kick the rear tire from the back as hard as you can (this pushes the tire up against the adjusters in case it slid back) partially tighten the axle nut and re-measure. If its still in spec, fully tighten the nut, and ideally re-measure again as sometimes tightening the nut can change the chain tension.

Go for a ride, if you hear a "whirring" noise from the rear end, the chain is WAY too tight! Also, clean and oil your chain! If you're checking your tire alignment and as you spin the tire it makes a weird noise, might simply be a dry chain in need of some love.

Lastly, don't overthink this process, we're not adjusting the chain or the tire down to the micron and the more times you adjust the chain the better and more confident you'll get. Obviously you don't want the chain so tight that it'll snap, or so loose it falls off or even the tire alignment off by an inch, the closer to perfect the better but the bike isn't going to explode if the rear alignment is off by 1/32 of an inch.

I second what Nightmare said...It is just that we pay premium prices for tires and I am sure a rear wheel running not quite straight accelerates wear on it.
Seeing as this bike is probably double the HP as my previous one I can imagine what tire wear is going to be. So I will be checking the rear wheel alignment at each chain adjust.
Rook...The MP tool is not bad..it is just that the rod that extends forward is not that long..I find it works OK. I prefer my long carpenter's level. Not always practical though!!!
I have a few MP tools and they DO have some nice stuff. Considering what I do for a living that is praise( that large tool truck has nice stuff too...but $$$$$).
Also of note...What Rook mentions in tutorial about when you tighten the rear axle nut, the chain tension will change. Good point on his part that I forgot to mention. Once you get the hang of it it is not so bad.
Besides......look at the bike we are all driving!!!
LOL!!!

After re reading Rook's Hot to on chain adjusting but could not access the photos. Thought I would mention that instead of the cotter pin each time. Get a "P" shaped pin that is used for a trailer hitch on cars/trucks. It locks the main connecting pin in place.
Kind of hard to explain, but I one used one for years on previous bike, The "P" shaped pin tends to lock itself on the rear axle nut once the axle nut hole is lined up with the axle nut slot. "R" shaped is closer to what I am trying to explain. Some may call it a clevis pin...........

If its still in spec, fully tighten the nut, and ideally re-measure again as sometimes tightening the nut can change the chain tension.

I find tightening the axle nut always makes the chain tighter. The sides of the swingarm must get pulled inward causing some extra length to the whole swing arm and this of course pulls the chain tighter.

What Rook mentions in tutorial about when you tighten the rear axle nut, the chain tension will change. Good point on his part that I forgot to mention. Once you get the hang of it it is not so bad.

For me, if the chain is 1/8" too loose before tightening the axle nut, it will be perfect tension after the axle nut is torqued.

After re reading Rook's Hot to on chain adjusting but could not access the photos.

Updating right now. Will post link here.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/31/2017 @ 6:48 PM *

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I align front and rear tires on my bikes each time a wheel is removed.
I use a variation of the string method but using 2 x 8' florescent tubes
as straight edges.

DRIVE CHAIN ADJUSTEMENT

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Piken...good idea on the florescent tubes!!! Never thought of that!
Rook.....the pin you are using is exactly what I meant!!

I used to use it. Now I have ann axle slider on there and I go without any kind of retainer. Half torque for Carrazzeria wheels. No problems.

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Floursecent tubes is a horrible idea. I've handled them quite a few times, have changed many in life, even the big 8 footers. And they're too fragile for this purpose. Just my thoughts, surely there are plenty of tubes or cheap straight things you could use in leiu of hazardous, fragile light bulbs.

Apaleo - my reconnemdation is just try it a few times. You'll figure it out. It's not rocket science, and I would say it's more childs play. Read the service manual, follow the instructions, after 2-3 times you'll get it for life.

if nothing is missing from the axle assembly,there should be no reason to check alignment.secondly,if your chain is getting tighter when torqueing the wheel nut,you don't have (a)...the wheel all the way up against the stops.(b)..you're not taking the time to tighten the nut progressivelyor (c)...you don't have your axle truly aligned with the hash marks correctly..that's my experience.you should imo check the marks and block line at least once while tightening.but i have to say,only when i first got my 07 did i notice that happening.corrected it right away(how i was tightening).also,the manual says to 'kick' the wheel forward prior to tightening.if it's on it's sidestand,it's gonna be hit or miss with that.(chain slack adjustments normally).this goes along with using the hash marks on the swingarm.i won't start that koo koo conversation,but i've never had an issue of misalignment from either side of the adjusting blocks and the wheel/chain equality using those marks.not once.

also,there will generally be a tighter spot somewhere along the chain length.you have to check the slack on that portion of the chain(bottom run and measure)halfway between front sprocket and rear sprocket.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/1/2017 @ 8:17 AM *

It's just an eighth inch but I notice my chain get tighter when I adjust the busa and the 14. If the axle nut is placed on the RH side (not the way it is installed at the factory), you are pulling the axle against the adjusters when you tighten the nut. Still gets tighter on my bikes. You can see the swing arm isn't clamped tight against the wheel when you first put it in. What a PITA it would be if the swing arm did not spring open a few mm when the axle nut was loosened. A few mm = 1/8" of chain slack. Just think how little you actually need to turn the aduster screws to make a big difference in tension. 1 or two flats usually does it for me unless the chain was super loose.

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i do believe you're right Rook about the swingarm being pulled in.i can see how that small offset could create slack,even if it's a couple of centimeters.i never considered that.it does make sense.I'll say though,i never simply start cranking down hard on that nut.maybe that's why i don't get any change in my final setting(s).Maybe?idk.i think that's why.the chain can't loosen if the blocks don't change.long as the adjuster bolt is mating with the block,it can't change.certainly won't get tighter...not turning the nut clockwise.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/2/2017 @ 12:15 PM *

Floursecent tubes is a horrible idea

I ain't scared.

So what do you use to align?