I want to change my 14 plugs myself but despite Rooks brilliant guides am unsure whether the tank has to come off completely or is it swung up at the back and tied almost vertical while working?

Actually, I have a how too under way if nobody has beat me to it. I am switching my plugs now as I am under the head cover to adjust the valve clearance anyway. Very easy access for me at this time.

You do not need to remove the tank at all. That will gain you nothing as the airbox is really what is in the way in the first place. Fuel tank rests on the airbox, airbox no come off. You must first reach under the airbox to get to the stick coils. There are 4 of them and they each have a lead connector that you will want to unclip first. Mark with tape for easy reconnect.

MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN ALL THE DEBRIS AND DUST AND CRAP OFF THE MOTOR before you pull the stick coils. You do not want to worry about anything dropping in the spark plug holes going into the motor. A blast of compressed air is all you can do if you think stuff drops in. Just clean it all off real well before disassembly.

The stick coils pull right out. No lock to bother with, they are just plugged in there like 4 rubber stoppers. You pull them up and twist at the same time and they will come out. DO NOT pry under the lead connector or it mat crack. just twist and pull up. If you have your PAIR system in there still that will make it more work. I tis a tight spot under there.

The end of the stick coil is soft rubber and you will be able to bend it to pull the stick coil clear of the spark plug hole.

Once you have the stick coils out, you need the stock sparkplug remover in the stock tool kit. It has a hinged shaft that will bend to fit down the spark plug holes. You can fit a ratchet under there. You must have the handle under the airbox wherte you will turn it, not sticking out the the side. I have a nice flat gear wrench which works well to fit the hex on the end of the spark plug remover.

Hope that helps. take your time and ask questions. I may be able to help you out.

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Taffs, I know how difficult this looks. I have not changed my plugs yet and was at somewhat of a loss as to how I would get to the inner two. Go at it and I am sure you will get it done. Can't be as difficult as it looks. No Kawi tech would spend more than 20 minutes on it. Give yourself plenty of time. The stick coils will be the hardest thing to pull up. If you twist and pull up at the same time, they will let go. It is pressure of the rubber squeezed in the spark plug hole plus they are pressed onto the spark plug head like a conventional spark plug wire.

Anybody know what the proper gap for spark plugs is on our bike? Not in the SM.

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The stock plugs will come pregapped...it should say so on the box.For a bit of ease of stick coil removal,I used a LONG sturdy flattip screwdriver....and slid the tip(flat) against the coil plug(connector...after it was unplugged),underneath,and turned the coil while GENTLY putting upward pressure with the driver.You have to be VERY CAREFUL however and not force the driver upwards strongly.GENTLY while turning the coil back and forth...just till she pops loose.DO NOT TRY TO APPLY UPWARD PRESSURE ON THE COIL WHILE NOT TURNING IT.You will snap the plug!!!!!!(the connector that is).OR...don't use a driver if you're afraid you might crack the connector....it's up to you.You won't have any problem with it if you go gently and turn the coil while applying pressure.It was very difficult to get my hand in there,grab the coil top,and turn/lift without the driver.You may have smaller hands however.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/19/2011 @ 1:01 AM *

ROOK, You are a star yet again. I did the plugs on my ZX9R and Zx12R a couple of times but this time the 14 seems that bit more intimidating!! I have ordered the plugs and will get back here sharpish if I fall down and take up your offer. My handbook says plug gap 0.032-0.035inch. Hope that helps. Many thanks. (BG, can we give this man a Service Contract to ensure he doesnt leave!!)

My handbook says plug gap 0.032-0.035inch. Hope that helps.

Thanks, Taff. I have a set of NGK CR9EKPA (which are not stock) and I do not know what gap hey are set at but i have a gap tool w gauge. The plugs I have have a two fork electrode. I guess I have to check both sides of the fork.

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1 more --I guess you are supposed to apply a film of high temp grease to the ribs on top when you reinsert the stick coils.

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I have a set of NGK CR9EKPA (which are not stock) and I do not know what gap hey are set at but i have a gap tool w gauge. The plugs I have have a two fork electrode. I guess I have to check both sides of the fork.

My handbook says plug gap 0.032-0.035inch.

Checked them with a wire spark plug gap gauge. .030 fits. Found an online spec for the CR9EKPA which says .32 and so I imagine that is exactly what it is.

Not all plugs necessarily the same but no worries as long as they are Pregapped at the factory.

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