I don't want to start an oil war. Whatever you use, be it Texas Tea or Mobil 1, its all quite good.

This is just a report on my car, and the Amsoil that was put in with a new filter in November 2011.

Yesterday I was having the brake switch replaced (sucks not to have brake lights) and for yucks they tested all my fluids. My brake fluid is a little dirty, so we wil flush it and replace. The power steering fluid is a bit dirty, same procedure.

But the Amsoil synthetic oil is in amazingly good condition, not even needing replaced, after one (1) year.

I'll have my nephew replace it in 2 weeks, because I do it every November whether it needs it or not.

Can't wait to get it in my new Connie.

* Last updated by: privateer on 10/20/2012 @ 6:00 AM *

Privateer, how many kilometers / miles do you average on your car every year? (just trying to get a sense of reference).

Thanks,

Spyglass

It doesn't hurt to let Amsoil set all winter, it won't absorb water, and the risk of condensation in the crankcase is almost zero unless you are living in sub-zero climate.

If it did, at least one of my vehicles would have had a problem by now, but none have.

@spyglass - I did about 8k miles this year. Of course, you realize, dino oil in a car that only does 1,000 miles a year will still go bad in 3-6 months, while a good synthetic won't.

Yes, but if you ride even 1,000 miles, your dino oil is headed downhill already. It will start making both acids and bases, and over time, will begin to pit bearings and such. It might take a few years, but its happening nonetheless.

That is why I won't let the dino oil in my Connie sit over the winter. I want it out soon before it cooks some acids up.

It came new in January with dino oil, and has had two services, and I let them use whatever they wanted to.

Now, I'm going to convert it to Amsoil. Like I did my 2008 ZX14, left it on dino oil for a couple of the initial services, then switched.

Car gets fresh Amsoil next month. That will be it for the car for another year.

I tried Amsoil in my old ZZR 1200. I know it's a good product, but it seems a little thicker than other 10W-40 4T oils. It lowered the idle speed slightly, decreased the fuel mileage slightly and made shifting a little stiffer compared to Mobil 1 4T Racing 10W-40. Lytnin said a ZRX motor he was rebuilding was filled with Amsoil and he could hardly hold onto a part that was coated with it. Maybe it just clings more.

@Danno - remember, a "racing" oil is fairly thin, and designed to have the absolute lowest practical viscosity so as to minimize drag on the crankshaft etc. The downside is "racing" oil is designed to work for one race, then be drained and replaced. The viscosity is shot after a thousand miles for sure, on a fake "race" oil marketed for street cars.

Its like a "race" air filter, it doesn't help you one bit, and you need to change it far more often than regular oil, much less a good synthetic.

With Amsoil, you get viscosity which lasts almost year in a motorcycle, and viscosity is what allows the oil to protect moving parts. The wet clutch grinds the oil up, and Amsoil has the best resistance to this process in the industry.

I find no reduction in fuel economy (based on my car and my ZX14) and certain no performance impact, so the added protection and long change interval of Amsoil is more than worth the cost.

Well the test Amsoil itself publishes certainly shoots holes in that theory, especially the part about Mobil 1 4T Racing losing viscosity. Like all high-end synthetic oils, it holds viscosity at least twice as long as comparable petroleum oils. The Amsoil paper rates it 3rd behind Amsoil (big surprise) and Motul 300V 4T for performance and protection. Just because Amsoil is gooey, doesn't mean it's better. Possibly their viscosity numbers are fudged to make it appear that a thicker oil is of lower recommended viscosity. Triumph specifically recommends Mobil 1 4T racing for all it's machines, something I'm not aware any other manufacturer does other than Harley recommending Harley-branded oil. If it was shot after a few hundred hard miles, Triumph would be broke from paying warranty claims for blown motors and that's certainly not the case.

@Privateer:

The downside is "racing" oil is designed to work for one race, then be drained and replaced. The viscosity is shot after a thousand miles for sure, on a fake "race" oil marketed for street cars.

Y'know, I'm with you on this point. A true "racing" oil is truely designed to be useful for a very hot (temperature) motor, for a short time, and it's pretty thin stuff because of the motor tolerances are tighter, compressions are higher, and generally they're running closer to redline for much longer. So, they're thin... I think I'm also with ya on the 1K limit of usefulness, under those use conditions.

There's alot I dont know about oils. Fr'instance, I dont know if I would define that "short time" to be "one race". I suppose if I worked on a pit crew, that's how it would be done, and I accept that.

I also dont know what the difference is between the mass-produced, marketed, consumer available "race" oils like Mobil 1 4T, and the "real deal" race oils. Except, I do believe the real deal stuff is really thin compared to the consumer, marketed, stuff.

So, I'm with the others on that point. I really find it hard to believe that Mobil 1's useful life is really in the 1K miles range. Do you really believe that?

I'm also running dino at the moment in my ZX14R. It's been in for one service (the 600 mile), and I'll likely have dino stuff put in one more time (very soon), to act as a lapping agent on the cylinder. Then, on to synthetic for me.

So, I'm interested in the thread. Carry on... ;)

* Last updated by: mebgardner on 10/24/2012 @ 2:31 PM *

Changing oil...Dino or Syn...every 3000 miles...that should do just fine,shouldn't it?Along with the filter every other change?IDK....Syn can go longer....guess it depends on what and how you ride?Most 14 guys are pretty meticulous about their internals.Mobil One reportedly was NOT the safest oil to put in your streetbike....IDK...a reputable bike guy said this not too long ago.Said it was fine and all for cars...but for revving streetbikes...not so good?

IDK...Motul has always been very reliable with my bikes.Full syn...10-40(7100).Has the added feature of telling you when it's time to change....you can't get around it.;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/24/2012 @ 2:36 PM *

So I've thought about this thread for awhile. (Yeah, I got no life oh well).

Two / three respected forum members have now indicated to me that Mobil 1 is not the best, and I'm going with that.

For others reading this thread whom may have not yet formed their own opinion, I'm saying that, for my .02 worth, the best advice I can give is... Choose a modern oil in the grade that the manufacturer recommends (read your owners manual) and change it often! I really believe that the lube industry <uh huh> engineers have worked over the decades to give us the very best in lube technology. Do this, and the 99% of us who do not race will be just fine...

That's my opinion. Now, where's my case of Amsoil?

Full synthetic...That's the way to go I think....the new 14R recommends full synthetic straight out the box.IDK if they put full syn in there from the factory(dealer)....but it's certainly NOT gonna hurt the motor within 600 miles.No way.I still think they put Motul (3100 Dino)in there.Looked just like the Motul I bought 'just for a comparo' with my 14R....Used it for one cycle of riding.Worked just fine.

I know it sounds....'corny'...maybe marketing,IDK...but the manual DOES mention the Kawasaki Oils(Motul)are specially formulated for these engines....guess it could be?Never had any issues with Motul.

I tried several 'top of the line' oils in my 07....gotta say....NONE of em held up past 2K miles....the shifting rapidly went south.....my .02

AND...I'm STILL pretty well convinced...they set the rings on their factory Dyno(s) BEFORE they leave the factory.I still think the 'break-in deal' is to get all the parts smoothed out,and allow the rider to get used to riding a bike like these.I don't think it changes anything to 'set the rings' right out of the crate....I think with today's quality control and expertise in engineering,these bikes won't benefit from 'high' rpm runs brand new.Flame On!!!

Smooth strong acellerations and full decels I think are the best way to break the motor in...but no topping out until.....

OOOPPPS!Sorry,forgot this was an oil thread!;).....timely oil changes...yes....that's the way to go.And no 'partial warmups' where you can get condensation building in the case.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/29/2012 @ 9:37 AM *

No more Amsoil for me! I've got 5k on Motul 300 and she still shifts like a charm!

it's pretty thin stuff because of the motor tolerances are tighter-mebgardner
Quite the contrary, tolerances in racing motors are set up way looser to compensate for thermal expansion.

Danno:

OK. I dont really know. I assumed what I wrote is true based on the higher compression I believed that racing motors developed. But, I dont build them, or feed them with fuel, soooo... I can be wrong.

Amsoil is either thicker, gooier, clingier, or all three than Mobil 1 4T. Bearings surf on a film of oil, so perhaps Amsoil give a bit better startup protection, but you may have noticed that as auto engines have gotten smaller, more efficient and revvier, recommended oil viscosities have dropped rather than risen. 5W20 (50% rthe viscosity of 10W40) is quite common. Because of the additives, the thinner oil protects as well as the formerly thicker stuff, and flows better at low temps and during warmup.