@Privateer:
The downside is "racing" oil is designed to work for one race, then be drained and replaced. The viscosity is shot after a thousand miles for sure, on a fake "race" oil marketed for street cars.
Y'know, I'm with you on this point. A true "racing" oil is truely designed to be useful for a very hot (temperature) motor, for a short time, and it's pretty thin stuff because of the motor tolerances are tighter, compressions are higher, and generally they're running closer to redline for much longer. So, they're thin... I think I'm also with ya on the 1K limit of usefulness, under those use conditions.
There's alot I dont know about oils. Fr'instance, I dont know if I would define that "short time" to be "one race". I suppose if I worked on a pit crew, that's how it would be done, and I accept that.
I also dont know what the difference is between the mass-produced, marketed, consumer available "race" oils like Mobil 1 4T, and the "real deal" race oils. Except, I do believe the real deal stuff is really thin compared to the consumer, marketed, stuff.
So, I'm with the others on that point. I really find it hard to believe that Mobil 1's useful life is really in the 1K miles range. Do you really believe that?
I'm also running dino at the moment in my ZX14R. It's been in for one service (the 600 mile), and I'll likely have dino stuff put in one more time (very soon), to act as a lapping agent on the cylinder. Then, on to synthetic for me.
So, I'm interested in the thread. Carry on... ;)
* Last updated by: mebgardner on 10/24/2012 @ 2:31 PM *
2012 Blue ZX-14R, Cox rad guard, Skene Design P3 Lighting, Knight Design 1" lowering pegs, Grip Puppies, BrakeAway, Cortech Sport tailbag, GSG MotoTech Frame sliders, Stebel Compact horn.