I don't know, b00f? I've been thinking about this; "BLUE07, you know once you pull out the hydraulic cam chain tensioner it's alot of work to put it back in, you have to remove the valve cover in order to do that." If I understood Rook, the loophole is back the crank up. This slaps the slipper at the arm that needs to be pushed back so very little. That hold-ring is a hair trigger. The ratchet-ring waits for wear to happen. That is the silent guy right there. That ratchet ring lost its tight wraparound. That is my take, I cold be wrong, but to clear that noise, did I stick my dick down there and hold it from clattering on start up?
My idea, and blue, come set this chain deal up, the banner is out, you are on your own you listen to blue or me. I say, that was sort of what I thought it would need without the cover off. Will it work, yes or no? If I:
1. Keep the tensioner in place so I can set the crank to slap the tip of the dick.
2. Have this correct, I turn the crank backwards. This has no chain trying to ride over a tooth if the tensioner is in place.
3. Move the crank just enough forward, I can now remove the tensioner. This says, field fix the ratchet-ring. Hair trigger the release-ring. Preload the tensioner and install. Slap the crank backwards. It was so small a move in degrees, there is no way for the chain to move over a tooth; you went slack too much for the slap back.
Is that what you basically did, Rook? No really bang the slipper at the tensioner. More like load it up backwards then release. Something like that. How close are we? And if you get it wrong. The book is the way. b00f was right.
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