Where do i go to buy a second fan and bracket. I want the aluminum fan to replace the original fan and also the second fan.

You will have to do cutting to make the Muzzy aluminum fan blade fit, and also will have to balance it, and turn the vanes to keep then from hitting the radiator.

I did that, and didn't like the flow enough to keep it on, and put my OEM fan blade back on.

I got my second fan from Schnitz Racing, at Secondary Fan Unit. I wired it parallel to the primary fan (+ to +, - to -) so they could connect to the OEM fan connector.

No need for a relay, no need for bigger fuse. Three seasons running it, not one hint of trouble. Leave the stock fan blades on, take my word for it, and the pair of fans will really cool the water temperature down fast.

Also no need to make it switched, just let it come on with the primary fan.

It mounts really easy, just follow the instructions.

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And either use Water Wetter with standard antifreeze, or drain (fully) your coolant system and fill it with Engine Ice, which I can attest personally to making my beast run cooler even before the fans kick in.

* Last updated by: privateer on 4/23/2011 @ 9:16 AM *

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Look for another thread with more info you'll need. To find your fan you'll just have to keep an eye on the different forums' classifieds and ask around especially if someone is parting a bike. It's surprising but some people actually horde things like these fans and will sell them if you ask. I have two fans on my bike right now and when they come on they run about half the time one fan which makes sense. I have not found the Engine Ice to have helped since my bike has been pretty warm the couple times I had it out and it's only 50-60 degrees now. But don't take that as a negative review, I just haven't noticed a difference yet.

As for the aluminum fan, as Privy mentioned, I found a lot of people complaining about having to hack things to get it to fit right and IMO that is not how a upgrade should be installed. Not one that is supposedly made to fit according to the manufacturer, so they will not get my money for that item.

If your really having cooling issues you can also look into changing over to a ZX10 front fender which will let more air in. Or a free'er flowing exhaust will definitely cool things down by eliminating that radiating catalytic converter.

As a matter of fact as soon as you upgrade to a full system supposedly you have license to laugh at people like you and I who want our bikes to cool down better and completely forget you ever had a hot ass pig in a blanket! It's some kind of Bio-Mechanical self-imposed amnesia/lobotomy Asshole syndrome Disease and I have my top scientists looking into the phenomena as we speak!

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He has to decide.... wait around until he happens to find a forum or ebay advertisement for a fan.....

Or click the link I gave, buy the darn thing, put it on the right side of the radiator beside the stock fan, wire it in parallel, and enjoy the change.

True enough, I'm sure my ZX10 front fender helps, because I had done everything else and seen the trend, and then did the fender and COX radiator guard, and saw the temperature average trend down some more.

I also think having my CT-Duals ceramic coated with race coat on the inside has made a difference in how hot the bike runs, lowering the average temperature some more.

One thing folks don't consider, if the air temperature is like 60, you'd think your bike would run cooler than when its 80. But if the humidity is high (like it is here this time of year with April rains and warming temps) your bike can hit all but last bar pretty quickly, Engine Ice or not. In those cases, it just means with Engine Ice the engine will cool quicker when the fans come on. But may stay on the hot side of the bar graph.

Where I see the difference is on rides when I'm in a city or village and have some cranky stoplights that hold me up. And the air temp is edging into the 90s. Its at times like that the Engine Ice and dual fans pay for themselves.

Where I used to see all but the last bar in those situations, I'm now seeing all but the last two bars, and even sometimes three.

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For what it's worth... Desert heat is going to take a toll on the 14, right? It gets hot in the summer. I'll say hotter than in your neck of the woods. You see me placing a bid on a fan blade? You see me have any overheating problems like I slow down for summer?

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For what it's worth... Desert heat is going to take a toll on the 14, right? It gets hot in the summer. I'll say hotter than in your neck of the woods. You see me placing a bid on a fan blade? You see me have any overheating problems like I slow down for summer?

Nope... dif'ernt strokes fer dif'ernt folks.

My "cooling mods"?... exhaust system, zx10r fender, engine ice. With only 300 miles on my bike it's been staying at 2 bars in motion and has only hit 3 bars when stopped for 30 seconds or more. Saw 5 and 6 bars before the mods... F*ck that!
I installed a COX rad guard and Muzzy fan too... but I don't think either of those help with the heat.

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Damn it Dogo, must you with that picture! LOL

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Hub wrote:

For what it's worth... Desert heat is going to take a toll on the 14, right? It gets hot in the summer. I'll say hotter than in your neck of the woods. You see me placing a bid on a fan blade? You see me have any overheating problems like I slow down for summer?

I guess my comment about the effect of humidity on engine temperature went right over his head.

Its easier to cool a water-cooled engine in the desert than it is in Maryland when the temperatures are the same, say 100F even. The high humidity in Maryland makes it more difficult to cool our engines.

But I already wrote that.

What does your air conditioner do? Before it really starts to cool it removes humidity from the air to make the air easier to cool.

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Privateer wrote:

What does your air conditioner do? Before it really starts to cool it removes humidity from the air to make the air easier to cool.

Sorry Priv, that's not the way it works. removing moisture from the air is a byproduct of cooling it. It's a basic rule of physics, High humidity will make an Air conditioner work harder because the condensation of moisture from the atmosphere produces heat which opposes the air conditioners cooling effect.

* Last updated by: Brenny on 4/27/2011 @ 8:02 PM *

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Ok, but it does make it work harder. You are just arguing wording. And it is harder to cool a motor in a high humidity environment.

* Last updated by: privateer on 4/27/2011 @ 8:16 PM *

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Humidity without question will put additional load on any air conditioning system. A radiator however is not an air conditioner it is a heat exchange device that transfers heat via conduction, convection & radiation.
On what basis do you believe humidity to have any effect on engine cooling????

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NO WAY privateer "WRONG" in the tropics they only use "FANS" for cooling, like A SWAMP BOX air conditioner uses water to cool in the Southern DRY States here they already have high humidity North hence "FAN OR AIR Blowing moisture (humidity) has a the cooling effect in our TROPICS @ northern NSW,QLD,NT& Northern WA don't use swamp box airconditioning its refrigernating over 100f or fans only !!!

* Last updated by: bean07 on 4/28/2011 @ 6:07 AM *

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I've lived in the deep South of the US, places like Mobile and Jacksonville, where it gets in the 100Fs with 80% or higher humidity at times. So I know how we cooled there.

I'm not sure what your point is.

My assertion it is harder too cool an engine with a radiator in high humidity is based on decades of experience. Watching the temperature gauge in cars, how fast it climbs, what it settles at after the thermostat opens. I've observed a pattern of the temperature stabilizing at a higher level on hot, humid days, compared to hot, dry days.

I'm not espousing anything out of thermodynamics, though I suppose there might be. So its not based on theory, but observed data.

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I'm not espousing anything out of thermodynamics, though I suppose there might be. So its not based on theory, but observed data.

I don't want to turn this into a personal attack Priv, so please don't take this the wrong way but sometimes our perception cannot always be trusted, what we perceive to be happening and what is actually happening are quite often very different. I'm also not going to big note myself by listing all my credentials or how many years I've spent in the industry and to be quite honest I'm too lazy to write a 2 page essay explaining why humidity alone can have no bearing on the ability of a cooling system to work but I will try to summarise:
Humidity is generally expressed as relative humidity, that is: the amount of moisture the air can hold compared to the amount of moisture the air actually holds. The hotter the air the more moisture it can hold conversely the colder the air the less moisture it can hold.
This is the reason humans feel uncomfortable in times of high temp /high humidity, the body is trying to cool itself by releasing sweat and when it evaporates (changes state) it requires heat energy (or Latent Heat) which creates a cooling effect. If the air is already saturated we sweat and it can’t go anywhere so we appear to sweat more, when in actual fact we are sweating the same amount as we usually do but it’s not evaporating.
Relative humidity percentages are generally higher when the temperature is lower thats not to say that there is more moisture in the air when it’s colder, there’s simply just not enough room for it.
To get to the point and without getting too technical, using the rules of Enthalpy (Enthalpy is the heat energy exchange that takes place during chemical reactions) and using a Psychrometric chart we can calculate the heat transfer potential of any mass of air. Wet, dry or in between. Using this equation the wetter air becomes the more efficient it becomes at transferring heat beecause there is less energy stored within it. Obviously atmospheric pressure is also a factor but in real terms this is negligible.

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None of this means anything to me. Like I said, I have a large number of data points I'm referencing, and don't care about theory.

So you will just have to examine your theories and see what you are missing that explains my data points.

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It's not a theory Privateer, they are laws of physics. Not abstact but black & white. And I didn't write them either basically a collaboration of minds like Newton, Einstein, Archimedes etc etc

But don't take my word for it, google it there are lots of great engineering sites like this one for instance.or this one

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LOL but I've still got my data points, and nothing can make them go away.

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LOL!

Privy forgot to tell you he lives in the Bermuda Triangle where none of your silly 'Laws' apply.lol

* Last updated by: Edgecrusher on 4/29/2011 @ 5:09 AM *

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ROTFLMAO, well Privateer I guess we are never going to agree, but I suppose I'd be disapointed if you had, no one respects a push over. In the mean time stay upright and I'll look forward to the next debate.

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You crack me up Edge, love the new Avatar by the way

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there's no such thing as cold , its just a sensation is all a degree of heat

you don't make things cold, you remove the heat

remember trying to sleep in a donga in Mt Isa doing shutdowns, night shift and a rattling swampy driveing me nuts

* Last updated by: ethin14 on 5/2/2011 @ 3:42 AM *

you took the words right outa my mouth ethin!

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My remedy for "overheating" zx14 engines....GO FASTER! Works everytime.She aint overheatin until she starts spittin rad fluid out the pipes.I've never seen that happen.Those Japanese have some seriously HOT weather over there.Cold too.Me thinks they know what they're doin....they did with my bike anyway!

"Oh you wouldn't have got a lemon....if you shopped at"

You know...there may be some truth to breaking the motorcycle in "by the book"....frequent running and stopping heat cycling deals...you know...anyone do that?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/2/2011 @ 2:36 PM *

I broke mine in by the book, all the way to 4,000 miles. Thats when I switched to Amsoil, too.

Mine is a 2008. It now shifts like silk, smooth as could be. Comes from running up and down through the gears and lower range of rpms, per the book. The trademark CLUNK when you shift from neutral to first is quite reduced now too.

She is pretty quiet, not that you can tell cause the CT-Duals rumble enough to mask the engine.

Sitting still on the driveway, the fans eventually come on, but they don't have to run long.

Moving down the road, the fans never come on. When its very hot outside, they do at long lights, but soon as I'm moving again the temp comes down fast.

So I broke mine in by the book, but I don't know if that any better than anyone else would have done it.

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