Post #56 is clueless, add #57 too. Look at the design:
Kawi = I place a door jam under the door, it goes nowhere.
Honda = I place a hoop around the axle and stop it from sliding forward.
Axle torque = Are you kidding me? Are you serious? That chain pulling that axle forward and it's the bolt in front of it, or the hoop around it. That position holds the axle from moving forward. You would not last one holeshot out of the gate if those were not there, period! One reason why those extenders buckled. That axle was moving every leave if not every tooth it's jacking that axle forward.
Axle loose as a goose = Now, remove the hoop or bolt in front, sure that axle slides forward. Install a bolt or hoop so the same axle movement is stopped and is that axle going anywhere with a loose nut? The Fuck NO!

How stu pit does #56 look like now? Want me to pick another post [#57] and listen to the logic if axle movement vs. No it doesn't move?! Your CHAIN IS DRY AS IN TOO DRY!!! 'The axle has rights.' How much out of whack is the axle? A half a turn on the adjuster? A full turn? If you do not think that chain lines up and slams the tooth squared, flex the chain sideways and look at the bow of that flex. If you think the arch's reach; the roller moving sideways; the plates have no place to go but line up around the sprocket statically, show me the axle that far forward, the other side [of the axle] is more to the rear, your chain has to ride off one side of the roller it's not about to happen or you'd be steering the front end and always correcting, because the rear wheel is moving in a straight line and the front end is cocked to the axle's plane or running square down the road is the rear only, yes?

The chain is too sloppy [to begin with] and takes up that kink of a turn at the screw. So bottom line, is a plate kinked at the back? Is the sprocket dead center down the swing arm? Is the axle's horizontal position even at both sides? Where is that link sitting? Where is the roller sitting? Before I torque the axle I am stepping on or loading the lower chain rung. Why? Loosen the axle; pull the rear wheel back so the adjuster bolts are no longer touching the axle, meaning. Slam your foot down on the bottom rung, watch the axle slam into the adjusters. If the adjust bolts do not move, here is where both have nowhere to go, now tighten the axle nut.

Preload the adjuster bolts into the axle. That's why that guy safety wires his adj bolts. Snugged them, not threw a bite into it. They back out, too loose an axle torque.

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How does one side load a ball bearing if all the spacers are in place?

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I can see how it would if the axle wasn't being held tightly enough to keep it from moving. That seems to be the problem here.

I'm not sure what kind of adjuster the Honda has but the Kawasaki couldn't back out or in with the lock nut.

Preload the adjuster bolts into the axle. That's why that guy safety wires his adj bolts. Snugged them, not threw a bite into it. They back out, too loose an axle torque.

I'd say the same. If an axle moves after the axle nut has been torqued, it's because the axle was not butted up to the adjusters tightly. Also, it depends on if you are pushing the torque wrench handle toward the adjusters or away when you tighten the axle nut. If you are pushing the handle away from the adjuster, you also pulling the axle axle away, leaving a tiny gap or at least loose contact. That's why I have my axle nut on the right. To tighten. I am pulling up toward the front of the bike, pulling the axle, the adjuster block and the adjuster screw tightly together.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/12/2014 @ 11:58 AM *

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^ Which is why I'm so excited about getting a 14R over a VFR1200 just for it's shaft.

So meanwhile in dumbassland where I live, I used to adjust my XX chain on the centerstand. This was in addition to my Penske shock being shortened by at least 1/4" and I'm guessing what would do even more harm as it would put even more stretch on the chain from just me sitting on it.

* Last updated by: Auron on 8/13/2014 @ 7:36 AM *

Yup, you need to have the Gen 1 on the sidestand to measure chain slack. If the swingarm opens up all the way, that is letting the chain go to it's max looseness. The 1.3~1.5 inch spec for the Gen1 is meant to be measured with the bike on a sidestand. I even noticed the measurement changes between using a spool stand and the sidestand.

I'm not sure about the shock length. I guess if you adjusted the chain and then lowered the shock after, that would tighten the chain.

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It also changes if there is a little load on the suspension, are you supposed to adjust with max weight on the side stand or suspension compressed as bit?

Just the weight of the bike on a level floor leaned on sidestand. Kawi specifies ON SIDESTAND in the SM. However, it also says check with bike on it's center stand. It won't work on a centerstand for obvious reasons.

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Very simple fix for ALL this guessing.Empty oil...remove filter.NOW...add oil as per Kawasaki amount(s)with filter.Check level in sightglass with bike vertical after starting and shutting down.It will never change from that level unless you have an oil burner.Mark sightglass with white out IF you have a hard time seeing oil in crankcase."Between UPPER and LOWER level lines".....(service manual).

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/14/2014 @ 8:08 AM *

I use Calipers to make sure each side is the same length. I don't trust marks.
The manual states 1.0-1.2" (25-30 mm) on the side stand.
I've added the center stand and my slack is 1.5-1.75" (35-40 mm).
I always adjust to the loose side.
Lube each day on a trip.
When I hear or sense chain 'slap' it is time to adjust.

Love that idea with the calipers.

How often are you guys adjusting under normal to hard usage?

I almsot never had to adjust my chain until I SWITCHED SPROCKET and kept the old chain. That required adjustment every 500 miles maybe about 4 times in a row. Now seems to be normal again.

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I adjusted maybe twice by 1/6 turn during the first 1000 kms, then once more after the next 2000 kms, now it's seeming to stabilize at 5000 kms. Replaced the stock rear sprocket with Supersprox Stealth at about 2500 kms. I did the same trick with vernier calipers when I did the sprocket change. Now I turn the adjuster bolts evenly. Mark one face of the adjuster bolts with red paint or similar. That way you never loose track. I adjust chain to minimum spec with the bike on a rear stand. That seems to make it about right on the side stand.

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I'll have to try that. I noticed noticed the chain slack is a bit tighter when you lift the bike on spools. never could understand why it would make that much difference but it does

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1. Look at the bottom rung at the touch pads under the swing arm. When the wheel goes up under the fender, we hit a large bump, compress the springs, the chain could be too tight when the chain follows the swing going up. So if you could load the chain, have the back wheel way up in the fender well, you could check to see if the bottom rung is too tight on the chain touch pad, or is off the pad and loose enough; for that is basically a too tight of a chain you touch parts on load.

2. Look at how the top tooth is pulling that wheel. So the slack could drag on the ground, it lines up like a chain does on a tooth and really needs no adjusting chain wise. However, chain to transmission shifting I think goes something like this. When we lift throttle to shift, the momentum slows down, the chain drops, the dog gears were about to slide in, but the chain drop caused the gear to slow down in a way, the dog now hits in the middle of the gear, not in the slots. So that mismatching of missing gears, the too loose chain: all I did was tighten the chain (running it too loose to begin with) and the missed shifts were gone.

3. Look at how little grease is in between the pin and roller. I do not have a high-spot per say. I broke the chain in loose. Why? The power on the roller is one thing, but when the chain is tight to begin with, the load or stretch of that one bump when the roller is loose off that one tooth, the taught climb under the fender, the lost grease squeeze, or sheer of that pin going around during that mini spin of roller rub, there is more (?)grease pushed out, and there exposes the high-spot gap occurring, or (?)galling of the pin going around that tight arch. So something has to give. The sprocket carrier rubbers give. The grease gives out(?both?)The pins crunch a bit more = High-spots.

That's my guess and I'm sticking to it.

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Makes sense;)

oil your chain regularly and every thing else go's out the window