HUB says"Name those websites so I can collect more passwords, there is someone over there that just plucks them out of their ass IS!"...ya...collecting passwords.Trolling...scamming...giving false information...re-registering on sites he's been banned from.Tricking people.Mocking people.Disrespecting people.Trying to confuse simple obvious threads.Accusing...taking posts out of context.Misquoting what others have said.Injecting unneeded info into a smooth running thread to aggravate others.Lying about who he is to avoid consequences.Our HUB...aint he cool?

So is taking a shit in a blizzard.

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Well Red, It is more than the hand. Did you say you bought a used bike? I have no clue of your mechanical ability or if the wheel was installed, if not the whole front end setup more square? I'm talking about having the axle square to the forks. I'm talking about the right fork floating, not binding on final assembly. I'm taking about fresh brake fluid so the pads retract, not hang into the disc with the pad not pulling back.

That was preventive maintenance above. That has nothing to do with the hand, but more final setup, you cannot blame the product whatsoever. There are no recalls on discs. Probably never heard of any, have you? Then, is there a warp factor going on with all these bikes that have been serviced with tires being changed? Especially how these bikes go thru tires, you do not hear about, 'my disc has a warp after I change my front tire?'

In your case, you have a rare bird. One disc has a warp. I would suspect a clamping of that disc somehow? In a bike vice, but caught the disc squeeze before you had to push the bike back out of the jaws? So did someone squeeze the disc not the tire, then caught it? I've done that. How about some recent hit at that disc?

I want to remove all doubt, we get to how someone cannot brake properly or is on the brakes too long, cooks said discs? I guess I see a hand squeeze being way too common to call a recall about some disc after tons of tires being changed from the first model till now. Show me the rare birds or show me both being taken out by some common brake apply.

There has to be someone that called out two sets were wasted under his hand? How could you have 4 disc go thru this guys bike, call those new discs mis-manufactured, failed the quality control at the factory? The odds are, it happened to be the same guy with the first set of original discs warping on him. Now the next set too, or is it his hand braking technique?

So, for yours to warp a .019" out of spec, the other is not, are we looking at a milky oil to the one caliper? Are we squeezing the one disc, caught it before damage to the other? Your braking skills [the hand movement] can warp one side of the disc but not the other? Was that close enough to understand a few scenarios about disc wear>

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One of my best friends has been racing since the days of Freddie Spencer and Wes Cooley and in 2008, won the AHMRA Heavyweight Superbike Championship on his resurrected Z-1. He warped 2 sets of rotors on his C-14 and finally replaced them with EBC Pro-Lites. No problems since. Maybe you could give him a few lessons in proper braking technique?

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On THIS forum Danno..."there can be only one".Try not to take getting smacked down personally.You made some good suggestions there...out of your own experience.Open minded posts help others.Close minded posts separate friends.I never would have considered cleaning the rivets...and in all honesty...I can't remember ANYONE ever suggesting this.So I think it's a good suggestion and makes total sense to me.

I've just spent a couple of hours cleaning the rivets on the front rotor. I used WD40 and a tapered line up bar to rotate the rivets. It's very easy to do and would recommend this when the wheel is off for a new tire.
Unfortunately it did not help me. the rotor is still toast.

Sea dis, greenie? Look at the date. You continue to perpetuate myths. As the month go by, I continue to repeat myself, that if my reality is correct, I have pointed out a myth to boy you and Danno, GAS'd. If that trick was the cleaning concept, then Danno's trick HAS to work. It run in the absolute, yes or no?

That is the concept around here guy. It either floats or you continue the myth as 'it's a good suggestion and makes total sense to me' is you do not see it. That is why if my theory walks, then did not someone 'CLEAN' a part and THINK this will do it each time if not one out of a billion disc? Stat me boy is I just did.

Danno and you say go. I say no. The waste of WD-40 says it all... OR, your reality works for you and the way you think is to really... If I quote you, it shows that you are shoving the myth, you have no clue as to seeing material vs. heat, not some dust on a moving part like a rivet spinning as it cleans? What is there to clean?

I'm not here to justify who is right. I am saying, there are more experienced... Oh, I'm just loving my dailies!

FUCKING IDIOT IS ME!

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Danno? Can you explain you cannot change discs on any AMA bike in the stock class? I think they use racing pads, but not racing disc(s)? I'm going to point out, there are current bikes with stock rotors out there. Could you explain that?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/4/2012 @ 7:23 AM *

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One of my best friends has been racing since the days of Freddie Spencer and Wes Cooley and in 2008, won the AHMRA Heavyweight Superbike Championship on his resurrected Z-1.

I believe that is wisdom from the past. Kind of like running up front is where your head should be, right? You seek out the mid-packers and still push that warp set of rotors without a problem. The stories I could tell you and your champion buddy. We all have warp rotor stories, yeah, I know.

It's like lapping some mid packer now... As if I could. I was the won getting lapped. Anywho, this thread haunts you again, blue. I have redboot as proof of his hard work. I said it from the get go it was a waste, and you GAS'dem again!

I told you to sit down on something like disc. I told you the universal look is the taper and you bring in the book. I told you to LOOK!

Greenie, you are going to lose you do not collect those ticket stubs. LOL

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/4/2012 @ 7:56 AM *

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Danno? Can you explain you cannot change discs on any AMA bike in the stock class? I think they use racing pads, but not racing disc(s)? I'm going to point out, there are current bikes with stock rotors out there. Could you explain that?

I can't explain anything to you. I can barely understand your cryptic posts, and I suspect they are the product of how your mind works. I am not a psychiatrist, so those things are mysterious to me, which is apparently the way you like to come across. I have been riding and wrenching my own and other peoples bikes for over 40 years because I learned early on not to trust anyone with my life. There are NO absolutes and nothing happens exactly the same way every time. I know for a fact that when a problem arises, it's best to look to the simple stuff first and that will solve the problem 90% of the time. The other 10% still occurs and when it comes to solving other peoples mechanical problems over the internet, the biggest hang-up is incomplete information.

As to your question about AMA rules re; stock components, I am not aware of anyone who roadraces a ZX-14. If I knew the entrants in that particular class, and only stock rotors were allowed, I would be buying stock in whatever supplier makes them for KHI.

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Ok, out into the parking lot with you guys so you can knock the edges off and let off a little steam. You guys both bring a lot of good information to the table. I do like the spirit of debate and discussion when it explores a problem or topic. The trick is to keep it from getting personal. There can be no singular right answer to a problem that is impossible to define and served to the collective.

Spyglass

Sure there is. I'm saying, fuel-spark-compression are the absolutes. I'm not arguing, I got someone telling me there is more air going in the chamber we port some head? I'm the same kind of listener. I listen to me after I let someone wrench on my bike is spit me and passenger off almost?

I am not taking your problems out the door. I'm just saying that after 40 years, how come you didn't go to a high oil level, you went to 'lot rot?' Yeah, I know there is not enough complete info. How come we were not on the same page then?

All you are seeing is someone heading to an AMA event trying to win. Same as here. This is the event, the course, the lap. I come here to get slapped and give some lap backatcha. You showed up for a slick race track is an overfilled oil case is to make a case about guide seals.

We come to a thread to take out all entrants. At least, that is how I come diagnosing YOUR problems. I don't have a problem. Nice try on the brake cleaning end. Good shot on the guide rot. Not my problem we cannot communicate. Read the leader board. LOL

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I'm not here to compete with anyone to be right. I offer advice based on experience and anyone can take it or leave it. I certainly don't think I am the end-all, be-all advice guru spouting mysterious double entendres and puns. When I have a question, I would prefer as many sane answers and guesses as guys care to post. I assume others would like the same. You say you don't argue, but that's EXACTLY what you do in your weird, passive/aggressive manner. If someone wants to take what you say for creedence and ignore someone else, that's their business. The fact that you try to make that happen says to me you're not as sure of yourself as you pretend to be.

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"Behold the pale horse. The man who sat on him was Danno... and Hell followed with him".

"Gettin small, makin' room for it all! Dannos on the phone so watch him make the call!"

* Last updated by: hagrid on 6/5/2012 @ 7:36 PM *

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I'm not here to compete with anyone to be right.

Nor I.

I offer advice based on experience and anyone can take it or leave it.

Same here. NOLTT.

I certainly don't think I am the end-all, be-all advice guru spouting mysterious double entendres and puns.

No one says you should. But when you do, you better be the ripper or get ripped for it.

When I have a question, I would prefer as many sane answers and guesses as guys care to post.

And you have some sane loon that just thinks they have enough experience but somehow, someway, my insane answers sort of question the sane post inputs.

I assume others would like the same.

Of all people to mention how much input the OP sends in, now guess at it. Wasn't there enough to go on? There was very little to go on. Where is that absolute problem? Problem valve seal or ASK the OP about the oil level? That was not mentioned in the input. I take my 40 years worth of guys mentioning how long they've done dis and now how was it, the oil level was well, the fork level, well, I'm more generic at looking at things, no?

You say you don't argue, but that's EXACTLY what you do in your weird, passive/aggressive manner.

Finally. How EXACT is ABSOLUTE? So, I may act the insane, but how come we met the OP with too excessive an oil fill? I also asked a sane, logical, it walks as it talks, how could you conclude valve guide seals sending in all that oil into the ram chamber kind of keep thinking guides, I keep your sane moves going insane... Weird, no? LOL

If someone wants to take what you say for creedence and ignore someone else, that's their business.

They seem to think I'm speaking insane? But to listen to the sane walk it out? I really do not get that? That is why I coin myself NOLTT.

The fact that you try to make that happen says to me you're not as sure of yourself as you pretend to be.

That more sucks you in. Then the venom sinks inn. Once I'm sure. Once I commit... I feel sorry for you more or less NOLTT. I'll be shaking in the beginning, but all is calm for the kill.

You race your way, I race mine. Run your own race. Do not look back. Someone might be gaining on you. And you went, ha, yeah right. 100% absolute right or wrong. I make mistakes too. Just correct me when I do. I'll straighten yours out I see some spinach in your teeth kind of insane moves or suggestions there of.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/5/2012 @ 8:25 PM *

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You should change your avatar from a spider to a noceum.

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Danno, my bike suffered from unclean rotors that I fought with for around 2k miles I would clean them and then around 500 miles later I would get a low speed shuttering. ALso this didn't seem to give any different feel in the brake lever. After getting the rotors checked for runout they came back perfect I decided to also clean the dust boots on the caliper pistons and the rotors. This fixed my problem and haven't had any issues in 5k miles.

Thanks for the info you posted

No problem. I didn't invent the procedure, I learned it from someone else. It helped my stock ZZR 1200 rotors tremendously. When I found a set of Braking Waves for small money, I was able to peddle the stockers to someone who had warped his own. If not for finding out about the button-cleaning trick, they would have gone into the trash.

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Hey Hub, thanks for your input. 99% English -----Appreciated, thanks.
You left me with a few questions so I will answer them best I can.
I bought the bike brand new in June 2008. My mechanical ability? All my previous bikes were 20th century. I have done more than 1 engine from the crank up and know my way around naturally aspirated engines. When it comes to PC3's, speedo healers I know FA. I do all my own brake work on my truck, van and bikes etc. I fully understand and comprehend brake systems. That being said, I failed to check my brake fluid to see if it was milky ( the reservoir is good ) and your point about the sticky right fork leg is a good call. I have since checked the forks and they are good and I am satisfied that the front end is true and square. The bike goes round bends like it's on rails and I can take my hands off the bars without any shimmy or wobble.
No, I have never heard of a recall on rotors, not only that, I had never heard of a warped rotor on a bike until I experienced this one. I just happened to be surfing the site when I saw the rotor cleaning thread and thought that I would clean the rivets as I had nothing to lose. I think really I just wanted to see if it would make any change but in reality if the rotor is out 0.019 with a dial gauge on the rim and then it is out the same on a surface block and dial gauge then I guess the rotor is pretty much toast!
I don't think the rotor was squeezed in a vise as my bench does not have one and the problem arrived well after the stealership had my bike. I am only onto my second front tire of which my friend (who used to work in the tire industry) and I installed. We used a proper bead breaker, rim protectors etc. Old tire off, new tire on, no issues and the wheel was balanced perfectly.
I honestly don't think that it is my riding technique. I am not a nervous rider hanging onto the brakes all day long. In fact to tell you the truth I am still a bit gun shy of these brakes after been used to the unstoppable CBX and the TLS on the Commando these brakes are bloody fantastic.

When I pulled the front wheel I did check the pistons in the callipers. All of the pistons moved back into the callipers real easy. However on the offending calliper you can clearly see that the pads are worn down further than the right side and you can also see the blue tinge on the warped rotor where it had been getting hot hitting the pads.

The roads here in Vancouver are absolutely fucking crap and the #1 parking lot ( free way!) has been under construction for over a year. I ride all year round and on more than one occasion when it has been raining I have come home covered in shite from head to foot from construction dirt. Although the pistons moved back into the callipers the more I think about it, I am beginning to suspect that the pistons did not fully retract because of the road grime. Hence the worn pads and warped rotor. That's not definitive it's just my opinion. I could be way out into left field with this but time and miles will tell!
My Solution New Brake Fluid. Which brand is recommended?
New Pads. EBC's. Bought and on the way.
New front rotor. OEM. Bought and on the way.
Oh, and of course clean the piston and boots etc.

Red Boot.

* Last updated by: redboot on 6/6/2012 @ 9:18 PM *

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I ride all year round and on more than one occasion when it has been raining I have come home covered in shite from head to foot from construction dirt.

Notice the hot buildup of heat year round at the caliper. Notice the air we cannot remove. Notice how the bluing of the disc, the locking of the piston, the crud under the 4-sided seal that is as square as a room but even sharper are the lines. This square has to pull the piston back. This is how a quad-ring works.

See, that ice cream pop up on a stick? Think of the round ice cream can still move out to the disc, but it has the pulling ability of the vacuum coming back on the lever, or the relaxing of the quad ring from lifting at the bottom, there is where it cannot come back and sit square.

That fluid is being sucked up, remember. That water is heavier than oil, remember. That you need to remove the quad ring to clear that milky stuff that will turn into crystal, as if having gout in a joint. Kidney stone material. That kind of white powder crystallizing under the rubber square that needs to be square on release.

Although the pistons moved back into the callipers the more I think about it, I am beginning to suspect that the pistons did not fully retract because of the road grime.

Then, your walk says the other fork assembly stays dryer? Lives in a vacuum? You forgot the other fork. No disc damage to that side. Besides, the other thing to remember is a leak. If it locks the piston that bad going in, then it should meet it half way is the leak going out, right? So, without a road grime leak lock, a few variables are, bad caliper bore to piston from the get-go, or lucky you caught the one side is the crystallizing on the one caliper quad ring(s?). It says to clean the other caliper or that will lock up the piston(s)... Sans any machining quality control at that one caliper being [in question].

Hence the worn pads and warped rotor. That's not definitive its just my opinion. I could be way out into left field with this but time and miles will tell !

Say the inspections are every few thousands miles or [1 year]; whichever comes first says the owner's manual. So, I am about to flush mine for the 3rd time. It's getting a major service pretty soon and the manual does not tell you a specific time to flush, or does it?

Have you ever flushed the brakes since you've owned the bike? This is "#" territory as you are riding it a lot, you lucky SOB.

The brake flush intervals you mean?

Yes. Your riding is the hardcore "#" symbol in the owner's manual. Lots of maintenance intervals reached faster than normal.

My Solution New Brake Fluid. Which brand is recommended ?

Heavy-Duty Dot-4 in a sealed container. It's all DOT approved so, it has to pee forum at these required levels.

Oh, and of course clean the piston and boots etc.

Well, you have a chore to do. Order new quad rings. Buy brake clean to spray the machined groove for inspection. This is to blow it dry after you spray it with compressed air. Find any white film buildup, clean with a toothpick rubbing kind of dislodge the crust. There is no need to take, for obvious reasons, a scrub pad to the inner machined finish of the bore. Take that material away, you wobble the piston and all that tolerance is taken out, so a paper towel is the wipe clean. Want to use camel cloth, or the lint free towel?; even better.

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=906165&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2008&fveh=24901

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Hmmm. Seems not too long ago I went down the same road with the CBX!

Just checked out that site you sent me. Am I correct in thinking that I need 8pcs @ $4 part # 43049 and 8pcs @ $4 part # 43049A for a total of $64? (both callipers) The site was not clear as it shows part # 43049A in the view but not on the parts/price list.

Thanks

* Last updated by: redboot on 6/7/2012 @ 5:17 PM *

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Just got an e-mail from Partshark. Got every thing sorted.

Thanks for the link.

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I know several riders who have had to replace warped discs on ZX-14s

Yep, me 2 lol. 4th set and counting. Tried everything but the above. Good Read. Cheers

I see two sets of OEM and one after market in the picture and all are toast. If the after market rotors are warped as well then that would rule out faulty materials on behalf of Kawasaki!

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