I do these myself but Im supprised that there isnt a nice how too for changeing the oil.

Beer included.

I don't know if there is a how to, but, it is about the easiest you'll ever see. put a pan under the drain hole and filter and remove both. when finished draining put a new filter on and replace the drain plug, then add oil....done.

I was thinking of getting a BMW before I came to my senses and those things sound all kinds of complicated to change oil on (admittedly just reading the steps can sound more complicated than doing it but sheesh) - glad the 14 is "normal".

-Dennis

Actually, there are a lot of little helpful tips on changing oil. It's not that easy and risk free if you haven't done it too often.

Tip 1, DO NOT overtorque drain plug because you can damage the threads in the aluminum oil pan. Torque to 22'lbs with a 0 - 50'lb flex beam torque wrench (~$20 at Sears).

Tip 2, Shmear a film of oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter before installing. Thread new filter on until it touches engine. Then turn 1/4 - 1/3 turn more by hand and no more. Any tighter and you will have a hell of time getting it off next time. It always seals a lot tighter against the motor with use.

Tip 3, run engine and check for drips. If none, trust that the plug and filter are plenty tight.

Tip 4, I usually recommend that people not do any torqueing/untorqueing with the bike on a rear stand - until they are very familiar with what kind of lateral force it will withstand without dumping the bike. It is not really necessary to put the bike on a stand to change oil as long as you have a drain pan short enough to fit under the bike.

Tip 5, You will need to buy 5 quarts of oil. 4 quarts + ~300 ml of oil to fill the crank case and the filter. After you run the engine to circulate the oil, and let the bike cool down thoroughly, this will leave your oil level right in between the marks on the glass.

Tip 6, a local auto supply may take your refuse oil. Advance Auto takes mine.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/16/2009 @ 10:51 PM *

Thanks Rook,,

Tips are always good. And the beer is for after you ride, of course.

I think I will do a first next week, around 300 miles.

My bike sat for 1.5 yrs on the showroom floor.

I think I will use the Shell Rotella, My last bike really liked that stuff.

No prob, Silvrevo. I doubt the oil in your bike was in there until they prepped it for you but it's a good idea to change very often when new because there is a lot of shearing going on during break in. Your filter will stop that from entering the cylinders but everyone seems to agree it is best to get the metal chunks out promptly. I could see the shearings on the bottom of my drain pan in the first two oil changes. I think I changed at 500 and then again at 1000. After that, every 3000. I don't recall exactly when but most seem to suggest waiting until the bike has a couple thousand miles before switching to full synthetic. I did it at 6000.

Just saying what I've heard for you or anyone else who reads your thread.

Rook

Yes I memebr that also about not changing too soon,,, thanks for the reminder.

From Dino to Synth that is.

Ok,, real simple,,, I want a decent oil for break in,, changing out again in 500 miles.

400 miles on bike,, looking for a NON synthetic oil,, Dino oil... and weight please

Im going to the parts store today,,,

First one that responds gets a free breakfast sandwich !!!!!!!!!!

Thanks in advance.

ps.....I plan on running Shell Rotella syn ,, after 1500 or so.

Hub did you get bit by that black widow? Or is your english that rusty?

I didnt understand a word you said?

Anyways, I gotter done,, well half way. Thought I had a oil wrench,, didnt, and that sucker is on!

Well anyways I will have a very well drained oil pan,, as I left the bolt off all night to drain.

O,, I also tried the old putting a hammer and screw driver to the filter,,,, Negative...lolol

I also used Castrol 10w-40, and a Napa Filter

I think I had about 3mm of ware marker on all my brakes and I actually use the back.

As far as oil, silverevo, I've only used 10W-40 and I'm told that's all I ever need unless I ride when it is really cold. 10W-40 seemed to work fine for cold starts on my garaged (unheated) bike all the way down to 30 degreew F.

Watch that screw driver through the oil filter trick. You don't want to pry against the threads of the stem that screws into the filter. I have a filter wrench with an articulating handle and it works good for getting under the bike. A filter socket would probably be the best thing to get a stuck filter off if you still have the flats on the front edge of the filter. I'd try putting two filter wrenches on there or a filter wrench and a filter socket. Pull on both at the same time. See what those stealership dufus' do? Next filter hand tight + 1/4 - 1/3 turn only. If it doesn't leak, it's tight enough.

I've let my bike drain for prolonged periods of time too but one time it hit me, "what if a mouse crawls up in there or something?" I usually plug it back up after 25 minutes now.

Hi Rook,, oil is all done. Man talk about having the right tool for the job. I had my left over fz oil filter cap remover,,, too big, Then two socket fit filter removers,, too big,, and then one with a handle, too big. ya I tried snugging them all up with towels ect,,, negative.

I was off to the bike store,, Got a nice fitting cap top filter remover, it fit, lol,,

The screw driver didnt work,, except drain some oil over night. Funny it crossed my mind about a critter getting in there too,,, more like a Spider,,, no offense Hub,,,,,,haha

That stock sucker was on very tight.

Next project is the pit bull front facing stand and spools,,,, then its the race rail frame sliders.

Latters.

Glad you got that thing off of there. I was actually wondering about that a few minutes ago. I use one of those filter sockets for my car because it is about the only thing that will reach up in that cramped spot. It is a lot easier than a old fashioned strap filter wrench even if you have plenty of room to spin a handle. We should all just learn to not put filters on so friggin tight in the first place. LOL I learned after the second one on the bike.

I always put mine on and take them off with my hands.

^^Yep, my rule of thumb is thread it on until it just touches the motor and then turn it another 1/4 - 1/3 turn. You can do that without even using a wrench of any kind. I need a wrench to get it back off though.

Hub you are a wild dude man! That is a good quick vid, for the mechanically challenged on oil changes tho !

I clicked the oil change video link and it told me it was 'removed by the user'. Anyway - this job sounds like something even I could certainly tackle, saving $$ and providing satisfaction in the process.

Take care - Wolfhound

Simple, put the bike on a rear stand, put a pan under it, take out drain bolt, take off filter....Wait for it to drain....lube the seal on new filter and fill half full of oil.....put the filter on and the drain plug back in....fill the oil on the right side half way up the sight glass.

it really is that simple

Thanks alot - far easier than doing it on my KTM (no need to remove gas tanks and the numerous filters etc etc). I hope to have a 14 of my own soon to try it on!

Take care - Wolfhound

Ok guys, quick question on changing oil. After i drained all the oil out, I filled the filter 1/2 way, replaced the plug and filter and added 4qt of oil. I then ran the engine to warm it up and then let it cool down. When I checked the oil level, the line was just about up to the top bar in the window. I thought I needed to add an extra 300ml of oil to get the oil line between the bars. When it was running I noticed that the oil line was way below the bars. Should I check the level while the engine is warm? Do I already have enough oil in there? Again, I've only added 4qt and Im pretty sure all of the old oil was drained out.

Thanks in advance,

Rets

Check the level with the engine off in the upright position.

I just had mine draining for about a week. Put 4 qts in and I'm inbetween the lines. The 300ml is for the anal freaks here who have to put that level right at the top. Of course acceptable range is between the lines.

The level will go down quite a bit when the engine is running. I usually can't see it,

I know this is el cheapo...kinda...but it works VERY WELL.I use a MUFFLER clamp and adjust it to size there,then turn with an extension.Works PERFECTO!

wow, i never would have thought of that, blue, good one!

Thanks Edge!

I kept forgettin to get a "real" filter wrench...so.....

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/17/2011 @ 1:17 PM *