I'd like to make my own wiring. This would be just for asthetic purposes. Nothing is wrong with the stock wiring. It just looks so ugly, it has to go. It is also routed sort of in the way avross the left side of the engine. It should run right along the bottom edge of the air box.

Does it sound feasible to make a whole wiring harness from scratch and solder on connectors? I don't know a thing about electrical work. Would I need to find special kinds of wire like a certain number of strands??? I don't know what else to even ask. How complicated would this be?

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Abort project.

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Jeez Rook,
It sounds like perhaps you have never had to diagnose and resolve a difficult motorcycle electrical wiring issue.
In my own humble opinion in this particular case, IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T EVEN THINK OF SCREWING WITH IT...

* Last updated by: yannih on 12/12/2014 @ 6:54 PM *

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ROOK!!!What the heck are you thinkingLOL!!!!Bro...you realize how risky that'd be...right....wait...I have a solution...maybe.How's about I send you a used(but working okay)wiring harness...I have one...only thing I don't have is the subharness for the stick coils...but everything else...yes.You could keep your present harness on there...for going out and riding...and use this one for your template...let me know...N/C of course;)(I'll never use it).PM me or whatever...it's yours.07 model year.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/12/2014 @ 7:17 PM *

1+ Abort

You have this thing called CAN-COM. Pg. 1-16. That means communication routing. Electrically speaking, you need to wind a certain amount of [break up the frequency the wires produce] when electricity travels thru/over the wires. The formula is how many loops around these two wires per foot(?) so the signals do not clash or bump into each other, but pass&go/abort kind of traveling thru the wires. The meter will go catawampiss, if not self-code itself losing a wire. Pull the ECU, turn the key on, watch it self-code w/out the brick.

Notice the frequency connection as to know to capture the priority signal and abort the low level frequency. These examples of the low levels are the water temp or air temp. High level is vacuum intake and crank speed are those examples.

When you read more in between the lines of said page, we begin to open a can of worms called, 'backup.' Sure, you could run all the priority wires like spark/crank/cam/injectors/fuel pump and more. Then you'd have to think about the other low priority signals lost.

Rook, a computer harness has 3 wires for each sensor say.
1. 5v ground wire.
2. Wire to ECU.
3. Wire to dash panel.

Whereas a 12v system can be looked at as using 2 wires.
a. The 12v ground wire from the one prong.
b. The headlight bulb and its 2 prongs.
c. The wire to the battery source off the other side of the bulb's prong.
d. (think key switch so you can turn the battery-source off).

Look at all the 5v wires you'll need to separate from connecting onto a 12v wired ground... better known as a J-box (factory book term for junction of grounds being either 12 or 5v). See the connection? (pun intended)

Lost means, 'backup' = Not @ FULL Power. Are you going to tear up a wire harness just to thin out a few wires and sensors not needed? Look at how careful I have to be so I do not lose the integrity of the pins or pinch a wire with one of those blue connectors? That's the Squidcityvillage ShittyIT working on that computer bike.

Like I said a long time ago... When I saw the capture of both spark and fuel being a sadass frequency, I think I cried myself to sleep many a night. I no longer could advance the timing or change the fueling. I was locked out.

So to get into the fueling and timing side of it, look at the pc, the flash, these are the things needed to change things. And if you go too far over/under that frequency, guess watt? 'Backup.'

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So I'm stuck with the stock wiring harness. OK, how about the two wires on the top of the engine? Could I make up a couple wires that follow a similar path except they are neatly clamped to the reed valve covers or am I stuck with the same problem of communication routing again. Those wires could be a lot shorter. Be nice to shorten up and tidy the snarl of quickshifter wires i have under there too.

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So I'm stuck with the stock wiring harness.

Basically yes. You will receive a first class ticket stepping on my red carpet that directly heads to Squidcitycentral where the rest of the shittyIts refuse to listen and cry why the bike won't start.

OK, how about the two wires on the top of the engine?

How about you back up to a mirror and find out if you are that anal about a few wires on a bike. Rewire the house. Leave the bike alone. (giggles)

Could I make up a couple wires that follow a similar path except they are neatly clamped to the reed valve covers

'Clamped' up to this point has been dependable, right? Once you start mickey with the clamping of wires, hooking them up so they fray and blow fuses... Where are we going with this? Show a photo of the problem that may not be a problem at all.

or am I stuck with the same problem of communication routing again.

I could cut my pc wires a lot shorter the way I have it, but why go thru all this wire cutting if it's plug&play from the company. Think like wood cutting: you can never lengthen, right? You may need that length for the next bike. Why mod that which already works with a simple snap-in-connector at the ends.

Those wires could be a lot shorter. Be nice to shorten up and tidy the snarl of quickshifter wires i have under there too.

Ask yourself this. When I connected that long shift connector wire in there did it work? Yes. Once you sit on that bike, look forward, have to remove the tank to see that wire, then which is it, ride or worry about where a wire sits? No one knows how long, how routed that [working] wire is but you.

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( sigh )

I did SOOOOO want to have pretty blue wires neatly arranged on my engine top some day.

How do they do it with the hotrod cars I've seen? Probably non computer cars or else they purchased from an after market wiring manufacturer, hey?

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Dip the OE harness into that vat of blue tool handle coating. Keep the connectors from being covered and that is how you blueman the wires.

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I may go the PlastDip rout as a first step but really, the biggest want here is to rout the wires more neatly. That means so would need to be longer and some shorter.

Hub, is this CAN-COM dilemma simply a matter of resistance? Theoretically, if every wire was tested and my hypothetical homemade harness was verified to have the same resistance as every corresponding wire in the OEM harness, would the homemade harness work the same as the stocker? ...or is there more to it than that?

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Hub, is this CAN-COM dilemma simply a matter of resistance?

It's something called a 'pulse train,' where the movement is for the priority signal (you could say a resistance value) that lets the main signals move on to compute, but the low level pulse is aborted/not used at this time/never used/etc. I believe that is located at the heavy main hunk of the harness. You are after the wires over the head? Those are addressable. The CAN-COM is all about reading the dash. If you don't want the dash, then no need to wrap the wires.

Backprobe the connectors and use your homemade harness. This way, no harness snipping involved. You can zip-tie the bulk of the harness shorter, then run your homemade between backprobes. Use safety wire, an ohm meter to see if you connected into the male/female prongs. Then use amazing glue to keep the wire in place and a way to cover the bare wire/solder/copper wire from touching ground.

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If you were trying to convince me not to do this that last post just about did it!

You are after the wires over the head? Those are addressable.

I'd be pretty darn happy to just redo the OEM grey stick coil wire and the OEM black wire which I guess is a sensor wire (that's what I call it).

Sounds like the method of back probing is to probe the wire at the back of the OEM conectors, then connect my homemade wiring to the probe wires. I think I'd rather just ask Greenie if I can have his old OEM engine wires if he still has them. I'd cut the conectors and backprobe those so the whole OEM wire would be out for the test.

You think that could work? No need to worry about CAN-COM with either the grey stick coil wire or the black sensor wire i'd be testing? The sensor wire might not get any shorter but the stick coil wire might have to. I tell ya, the quickshifter loom that connects inline with the stick coils would get 10x shorter. I could pare that sucker down to the same length as the stick coil wire and clip the inline connectors right atop the stick coils. It would be neater than a clothesline.

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Now that you've been warned how critical it is not to mess with the OE wires, you may now proceed with your mods. Once I remove every connector off that bike, not one connector/wire was altered. Any clips/solder/backprobing done is done outside the harness, meaning, use a male/fe ends into the connector and glue in place, or backprobe with safety wire and then glue that in place.

Yes, if I had Grn's harness, I could match connectors w/colors matching, run the wires short off of Grn's harness and it would be at least one clipped side, then backprobed onto the matching connector. That, or push pins out of the connectors I won't use, solder those male/female ends to the cut harness ends, so the male/fe pins will be set in goop glue to keep the pins connected to their male/fe ends. Make the goop act as the connector you need to keep the pins in place. In other words, look at the pc connections where they match male and female connectors so you connect the pc in the middle of the harness. You only have the one side cutting up that harness.

Again, you should use this exercise to practice your soldering, wiring, etc. As someone stated, you need to ramp up your electric skills so have at it this way. Practice how to solder before attempting things on the bike. This will get you to think how to lay out wires so no shorts happen, nothing catches fire, etc.

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thanks, Hub. i have no immediate plans to start this. I just wanted to find out what unknowns were involved before I put a lot of thought into this. Maybe next winter I will try some tuff. I sure don't want to fry the bike over a few ugly wires. Maybe I'll even start some practicing on a less important engine like my 13 year old Carolla. LOL

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Rook be very careful if you are thinking about soldering connections. Mercedes came very unstuck with this. The solder joins the wire to the connector perfectly. The problem they had was the solder also tends to “wick” up the nice clean wire under the insulation. This made the wire fragile when subjected to the vibrations of the car. Result broken wires and recalls.

thanks, kwakamax. It will be a long time before I ever try this and I will definitely save my OEM wiring fully intact in case there's trouble. This might be something I hand over to a pro if I ever actually do it.

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