Okay, I noticed the other day that the plastic piece below the triple tree had fluid on it next to the brake block. I did think nothing of it. I had full brake control in the front and everything felt fine on the front brake lever. Well, yesterday I had a a buddy (that races) install a set of Dunlops GP-A track tires. After the tires where install and everything was back together I took it for a short test ride. As I went to grab the brake lever it was very soft so I pumped the lever and the calipers grabbed. I thought nothing of it at that time. As I turned around to head back to his house, I grabbed the brake lever again and it was soft and I pulled it all the way into the bars, so I pumped the brake and again and they grabbed. I went back to his house and we bleed the lines and a little bit of air was in the lines but not much. As we where checking things out, I remembered the leak under the triple tree. We looked at that but couldn't really find where the brakes are leaking from. We both assume that the brake block is leaking from under neath and we can't see it. The top of the brake block has no fluid on it but under the brake block and on the plastic is covered with brake fluid.

So, my question to you ZX14 gods is...In your best opinion if I change out the lines for SS brake lines like the Galfers, Russells or the Yana Shiki and omit the brake block will my front brakes come back and be "normal"?

And, what SS brake lines are some of you running?

Thanks!

Ride on, Ride safe!

BearsZX72

In your best opinion if I change out the lines for SS brake lines like the Galfers, Russells or the Yana Shiki and omit the brake block will my front brakes come back and be "normal"?

Pick anyone. They have to meet DOT spec or shut the shit down. None have any problems, so there you go. You will need the double length banjo bolt for the front master.

Do this. Set the one fork up and down to the one fork, meaning, leave that fork alone. Float the other leg so the axle flies in and out, you don't have that disc fighting disc if one is kinked in the slightest, it didn't occur when new, we are just hand massaging the parts, not fast factory fit and finish.

Since you both can tag team the lines, prime the master without the lines. Push your finger over it and run the open/close my thumb over the main hole till you have a lever. Then spin both lines on, cinch the new washers [3] so it's snug. Later for those.

Now, you are down at the bottom holding open are the lines and in cups to capture the fluids. Your guy at the top is feeding fluid and just pumping away [open lines, remember] and then you see the fluid run. Here is where you close both fingers over the banjo holes, he's still pumping [slower] so your fingers cannot keep the fluid back, you finally see clear fluid out of both fingers, no more farting of air.

He spins on the one line to the caliper, you the other. Make sure the fluid at the top has enough so you do not air the lines. I would have the pistons retracted into the calipers. This way, you are bleeding out any old stuff until you see clear fluid.

So whatever it takes to keep the pads at bay, you bleed it so much then close it, install it on the leg. Start pumping, adding fluid. Your final bleed at the calipers, you now, line up the lines that were all snug at the banjo bolts. You'll go up to the master, send those lines to their home position, wherever that is? Cut fuel line hose or clear plastic line down the middle. Wrap it over the steel line, zip tie it to wherever it won't rub and hit as you turn the bike to park it; swinging bars right to left.

With everything tight at the banjos now, your final is at the master. The main lever should be nice and hard like normal. That little fitting needs to be bleed if the pedal remains soft. One more crack open at the master's banjo bolt clears it all if the little guy didn't.

i believe i read on hear that guys were having clearance issues up top with the Galfer lines I used good ridge and they fit and work perfect

what SS brake lines are some of you running?

Goodridge kevlars.

lighter and a little skinnier if you go for that look.

Fitment was amazing. No need for any kind of retainers. They just stay in place under their own tension. banjo positioning causes a slight twist in the line on install and that makes them pretty stiff.

Only prob, they do not make a clutch line for the 14 in kevlar. I went Speigler steel braided on that.

Only place aftermarkets might leak is at the banjos. The hoses should be good for life unless you crash or damage somehow. Brake pressure isn't gonna do a thing to them.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/19/2012 @ 9:37 AM *

Thanks for the replies.

I checked around and found that Cycle Gear is offering the Galfer rear lines free when you buy the Galfer front set. So, I went and ordered them. They should be to my house before the weekend. Here is a link to the Galfer deal;

"This item is part of a package deal. From now until March 1st buy a Galfer Front Steel Braided Brake Line Kit and get the Rear for Free!"

Galfer Deal at Cycle Gear

I'm running galfer lines they fit fine. A little hint though the fittings turn if you need them too put a rag on pliers and grab the metal sleeve on the line and you can use a small dowel or I used a phillips screw driver shaft through the fitting to turn it.

Well, I finally got around to swapping out the brake lines. The swap went fine and had no issues. Took off the rear brake line and placed the new Galfer line on, bleed the system, works fine. I took off the front lines and installed the Galfer, bleed the system and had good stiff brake lever action.

Now, here is the mystery. When the bike is sitting still I have good stiff brake lever action. As soon as the bike is rolling, I loose the front brakes and I have to "pump" the lever to have them back.

Is the master cylinder going out? Should I replace the master cylinder or should I look for a different problem?

I've bleed the front brakes again and still the same thing.

I hope that someone has had this same issue and can give me some advise.

Thanks,
BearsZX72

bears did you bleed the master cylinder? start at the top (with the master cylinder) and then move to the calipers it might takes 2-3 times but always start at the top

Scott, Yes I started with the master cylinder and worked my way down to the right caliper and then the left one.

I will give it another go and I hope that will work!

Thanks for the advise.

Sometimes the master will develop an internal leak. the fluid just goes from one side of the piston to the other. in that case you need to overhaul the master.You won't have any external leaks , just the lever is mushy and doesn't improve.

Mad

FYI

If you pump up the brakes sitting still and they stay good until you roll the wheel,then one of the rotors is warped and pushing the pads back into the caliper a bit. That may be why you have to pump the lever to get it hard.Did you by chance damage something when you changed the tire?

Put the front on a stand--pump till brake lever is firm--roll the wheel through several revolutions-is the lever still firm or do you need to pump it?

If you pump up and get firm lever and dont move it,is the lever still firm after 15 mins or so?

Update...

I bleed the lines one more time to make sure all was good, which it was. I called the dealer to ask the mechanics a few questions. The mechanic asked me a few questions and I determined that I was going to bring the bike into them and have them 'power bleed' the master cylinder. The dealer bleed the master and still no joy. They took the wheel off the bike and removed the rotors and found that they are warped. So, both of my front rotors are warped. While I was there we looked up pricing on new stock rotors. Hell, new oem rotors are $381 each! I said hell no to that. I found some Braking rotors for $246 each, so I ordered them from http://www.indysuperbike.com/. Indy sent me an email stating that Braking no longer makes rotors for the ZX14. So I had them refund my order and off to search for a different manufacture. So, I looked on eBay for rotors and found this brand called Arashi. I never heard of them and I started to research them. Found out that they started to hit bike forums around 2009. I found many post stating that riders bought them and like them. I found a post that a guy bought them had them sent out for a full stress test. He stated the the Arashi pass every single test after heating, cooling, twisting, and pressing. They are made of the same metal as the galfers, ebc, and braking. All are made of materialistic steel AISI 420. So, I bought a set from www.madhornets.com for $203.65 out the door. When I receive them, I'll post up some pictures on and off the bike.

Later,
BearsZX72

* Last updated by: BearsZX72 on 4/3/2012 @ 8:35 AM *

Thanks for doing the leg work on those Bears. I may be in the market for at least a rear rotor pretty soon.

Those look really cool too.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/3/2012 @ 9:56 AM *

^^^^Not a problem at all Rook. I do what I can when I can and add my 2 cents when I can.

I received an email last night from madhornets.com stating that they shipped out the rotors with a tracking number. The tracking number is from USPS. I went to check on the location of my rotors and they are being shipped from SINGAPORE! What the hell! SINGAPORE! Oh well, I got a good price on them, now I have to wait...

* Last updated by: BearsZX72 on 4/4/2012 @ 8:04 AM *

The wife called me today at work and told me that a heavy box came in the mail for me. I think it's my rotors! If it is, I'll snap a few pictures and post them. I probably won't get to install them until this weekend sometime. When I do get them on the bike, I'll snap a few more pictures for all to see!

Yup, it was my new Arashi rotors! Here are a few pictures that I snapped last night as I opened up the box...

And here are the Arashi rotors mounted on the tire/wheel

Looks nice!

Looks nice!