Rather than turn the motor with the starter after the open intake valves have been squirted with ATF, would it not be just as good to turn the motor by hand? The bike is shut down for the season in 6th gear anyway so why not just turn the rear wheel forward to turn the motor and distribute the ATF over the cylinder walls?

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You could... If you can override the kinetic. Hand movement will slow to stop the mist action. Pushing is a lot faster to override the kinetic with all that mass of the bike [behind it] to override the power of your pull up of the wheel. You'll find out 6th did it, or 6th in a ratio to override did not do it.

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aaaaaaaaaAAAAAAH. Eureka! So that is why they call it fogging the motor! When you said "mist," you literally meant that the ATF is going to turn into mist from the compression of the engine!! Well, damn. No way can I turn the rear wheel that hard! Yeah, I see the starter motor would be the way to go if you actually want to fog the motor.

Turning the motor by the rear wheel, I would expect the ATF to get sucked from the intake valves to the clinder where it would mostly get trapped by the rings. After a couple turns, I would think you'd have a coat of ATF spread over the cylinder walls and the intake valves would also have a film on them since that is where you shot the ATFin there. But that would really be considered a second rate engine storage prep, wouldn't it? To do it right, you actually would need to turn the ATF to a mist by compressing it in the combustion chamber and then the ATF would mist up into the exhaust valves after the compression stroke?

...or am I still mystified?

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/9/2014 @ 8:03 PM *

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I think the fog is getting clear, now. For every reaction going in, the fog will coat the exhaust too. For every action, there is that backwash when the intake opened and upon close there is a tiny push back up the throttle body. So both valve sides are fogged as are the rings. Fog to the valves, but settlement [after] to the rings are no longer under the kinetic push of the air against the back of the ring.

Watch the air flow past the ring, what is the difference you displace it with liquid? So look at the top of the piston. Air is going to be forced on top of the piston; move down the wall and side of piston; hit the tiny groove of gap where the ring sits and spins around, the building pressure is now forcing the air behind the ring in the groove; the pressure forces the ring(s) out due to that behind the ring that causes more sealing pressure besides the ring's own tension; the air is now under the ring so it escapes to the next groove behind the second ring; they float in between that air pressure; the spinning keeps the grooves clean so the rings can float in that machined gap.

When there is no air pressure left; the piston ascends upward after that power stroke; the ring(s) now sit on the bottom groove... Or you can say where the ring 'lands' is called that part of the piston. So from ring groove to where it lands sitting on ascend or descend, that ATF is going to run inside that groove and displace the air gap. The air gap can cause condensation; reacting to a chemical reaction between the ring's metal and piston's aluminum dissimilarities, cause a crystallized action to jam the rings closed by taking up that tiny air space; not spin in the grooves; block the air pressure to move behind the ring to seal = Low to No Compression!

That's why you use that thin oil to displace that air gap so that chemical reaction does not occur.

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/9/2014 @ 9:29 PM *

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ok got it. Now about cranking the motor to produce the fog...did you say if the throttle is held WOT, that will allow the starter to crank but prevent the engine from starting when the start button is pressed?

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No, WOT was just for the oil to be easier to move closer to the valves. You can now remove the bungee off the throttle. The vacuum will pull the ATF on the initial suck. Yes, a few days ago, I needed to crank the engine for some reason, WOT'd the throttle so it wouldn't start as quick as if not touching the throttle. All you need to do is push the bike in 6th gear, key off, push a few feet so the crank turns a few times, PARK IT! Budda-boom-budda-bing = Done.

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All you need to do is push the bike in 6th gear, key off, push a few feet so the crank turns a few times, PARK IT! Budda-boom-budda-bing = Done.

ok, now I got it. You mentioned that before: 'move the bike about 3 feet in 6th gear.' Makes sense. This allows me turn right through the motor's compression. to "override the kinetic" as you put it. Yes I see if the engine turn is weak enough that the compression slows the turn down, Then compression is quickly lost also. There needs to be constant motion to maintain compression so that the ATF can mist and fog the exhaust valves, eh? Makes sense.

I can accept pushing the bike in 6th gear to develop the ATF fog. Easy. However, I'm always thinking of other possibilities....even those that I initially rejected. I am speaking of the starter button that I was so afraid of previously. Heck, couldn't i just turn the engine kill to OFF and hit the starter button for a few seconds to make the fog? No danger of starting the motor with the kill switch off.

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No danger of starting the motor with the kill switch off.

I tried. You need the kill on to turn the engine over. You need to WOT the throttle so the TPS sends in a WOT number, not a closed throttle number upon start up >>> This 'aborts start up.'

WOT + Dead engine = NO START. Kind of like the loophole of: WOT-kill on-tap starter= Park for season. I could crank away and nothing happened just now. I came off a warm engine so it should have started instantly like it does. I held the starter on longer than that initial fog crank. So it's a tap and hear it pulse in less than a second... Literally.

A second and a half, you start blowing out the oil.

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You need the kill on to turn the engine over.

Oh, yeah been so long I forgot.

You need to WOT the throttle so the TPS sends in a WOT number, not a closed throttle number upon start up >>> This 'aborts start up.'

OK, I will try that when I refer back to this thread. Should work....or else I'll just do the short roll across the floor in 6th gear to get the ATF to fog.

WOT + Dead engine = NO START. Kind of like the loophole of: WOT-kill on-tap starter= Park for season. I could crank away and nothing happened just now. I came off a warm engine so it should have started instantly like it does.

The throttle is held at WOT and the engine will crank but it will not fire. As soon as you let the throttle return to 0 throttle, the ECU senses all is safe and lets the engine fire.

A second and a half, you start blowing out the oil.

what does that mean? After you crank the engine 1.5 seconds, you are eliminating the ATF you just fogged through the motor?

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/11/2014 @ 11:02 AM *

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