For anyone who can answer this.I have a power lead(red/black wires)attached to my battery +- leads for my radar.The 'on' button is in the radar unit.I'm adding a powered external speaker.It also has +- power leads.I don't want it getting power while the bike ignition and such is off.Can I splice these leads into my Radar leads and have it only power on when I power up the radar?It does not have an on/off switch.Thanks all for helping with this.I can't remember how I did it before.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/18/2018 @ 10:01 AM *

The speaker will see the Bat V in the circuit you describe. If its not producing sound it would only draw a small amount of current. You could test this w/ an in-line A meter to see what the current flow is. I would put a switch in line to the speaker.

Okay...thanks Rudy.Yeah,I need a switched power feed.Wish I could remember how I once had it.If I hook it to my battery,I can install a small switch in the hot lead right?Mount it up under the inner fairing or something reachable but hidden.Thanks again man.Hope you're gettin some riding in.Been pretty nice recently.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/18/2018 @ 12:21 PM *

I think you want to use a relay...

I have a power lead(red/black wires)attached to my battery +- leads for my radar.The 'on' button is in the radar unit.I'm adding a powered external speaker.It also has +- power leads.I don't want it getting power while the bike ignition and such is off.Can I splice these leads into my Radar leads and have it only power on when I power up the radar?It does not have an on/off switch.

If you splice the speaker with the radar (say cut, strip, twist, wire nut black/black, red/red or positap black/black, red/red or solder/heat shrink black/black, red/red), that would be the same as simply connecting both pigtails to the battery by ring terminal....there's no real need to actually splice if you wanted to hook both up to the battery +/-.

HOWEVER, if your goal is to have the speaker come on only when the ON switch is thrown on the radar, connecting the speaker to the battery will not achieve that. That will work for the radar because it has a switch to let the power flow through the radar (ON) or stop the flow through the radar (OFF).

The speaker hooked directly to the battery with no switch, the power goes up the red, into the speaker, back down the black to the battery.

HOWEVER, if there is no sound coming out of the speaker....is it using any power?? I think not.

Is this a stereo speaker for playing your Joe Satriani? If so, you will be surfing with the alien until your battery dies out with the bike shut down.

Is this an audio alarm speaker that is triggered by the radar? If that's what it is, it will need to be spliced into the radar's warning lights so it goes off when the lights come on. If you go black/black, red/red with the speaker at the warning lights, then the speaker would A) be switched ON/OFF with the radar ON/OFF switch, B) would not use any power unless the radar warning lights came on.

What is this speaker supposed to be for?

I believe you are describing that you have wires from the battery directly connected to the radar detector. If you connect the powered speakers in parallel to these wires (think of it as a "Y" connection with the battery at the bottom of the Y) the speaker would be on all of the time.

You would want to use a relay which would basically be something like this:

Battery(Positive)
|
|
Relay-------Speaker--------Battery(Negative)
|
|-----Switched power source (ie daytime running lights)

When the relay detects power on the switched source it completes the connection between the battery and the speaker.

Do NOT wire it like this:

Battery(Positive)-----RadarDetector----Speaker----Battery(Negative)

* Last updated by: Nightmare on 5/18/2018 @ 3:25 PM *

You guys are great!It connects via a 3.5mm phone plug to the radar.For sound that is.So it's not actually 'doing anything' when the radar isn't alerting.But it would have power going to it if it was battery connected.How much IDK.Think I'll add a small toggle switch in the line then.IDK if it actually pulls power when it's just sitting there connected.I have my doubts.

A meter to see what the current flow is.

I would put a switch in line to the speaker.

If I hook it to my battery,I can install a small switch in the hot lead right?

SWITCH TO DRAW = Your switch shuts OFF all available power in that circuit. i.e. you are using the battery!!!! that is 100% fullON power coming up that red wire!!! How many amps the battery can supply is the max amperage your bike can make. I bet it is ~60 amps and that is way more than anything on the bike can use except maybe the starter motor. SO (assuming my guess of 60 amps is in the ballpark) you got 60 amps coming up the red wire (better have at least 18 gauge wire) and you are going to switch all of that power ON/OFF. That's 60 amps arching each time you throw the switch (better use a HD switch, not a mini). A switch ALWAYS causes an arch and it is a LOT stronger arch with DC than it is AC. Your speaker only draws 2 amps. Why do you want to arch 60 amps when all the power you need is 2 amps?

SWITCH TO GROUND = You are safer to let the 60 amps lay steadily in wait within the red wire and let the speaker draw in its 2 amps off that 60. It goes through the speaker and what comes out the other end in the black wire? Less than 2 amps. SO you see, a switch to ground creates a lot smaller arch.

You could place an inline fuse between the battery + and the red wire to the speaker. That would lower the amperage to the speaker and the switch if you must put the switch in the positive wire. Even if you put the switch in the black wire, I would still use an inline fuse in the red wire from the battery to the speaker. It will protect the circuit from an overload and there is no reason to run full battery power to a speaker. Same goes for the radar detector and I'm sure you def want to protect that expensive item from getting fried by an overload. The detector might have an internal fuse built in.

Short answer: I believe it is proper to create the switch to ground meaning you let the power flow into the accessory (speaker in this case) and then install the switch in the negative wire. Also, use an inline fuse 3Ah or lower) in the positive wire. You can put the inline fuse right to the battery terminal.

Here's where I put my inline fuse for my guages. One end to battery + other end to the positive wire for gauges and run through one of the many secret holes in the battery box. I grounded the black wire to frame but you could ground to battery with your pigtails.

There are a few cool holes in the battery box you can rout a wire through. I'm sure the Gen2 has them as well. Put a 1/2" gromet in one of those holes in the floor or the hole in the wall. The floor holes are a bit larger than 1/2"...I lost the first grommet somewhere underneath it fell through pressing it in. It never fell out in the garage. Second go I was more careful and I got it in.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/18/2018 @ 5:03 PM *

Yeah.Okay.The instructions say 'switched power supply' with included clip wire connector.Thanks all.Really helpful...appreciate it.

" you probably don't want to listen to Joe Satriani all day either."...nah,that's why I got some Hendricks!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/18/2018 @ 4:59 PM *

You would want to use a relay which would basically be something like this:
Battery(Positive)
|
|
Relay-------Speaker--------Battery(Negative)
|
|-----Switched power source (ie daytime running lights)
When the relay detects power on the switched source it completes the connection between the battery and the speaker.

Are there different kinds of relays? Can you use any old relay? like this one?

https://www.alliedelec.com/te-connectivity-1432785-1/70198785/?mkwid=sbHtfQzpM&pcrid=30980760979&gclid=CjwKCAjw8_nXBRAiEiwAXWe2yYImO_p4DZiuRWveGm3zioIg4e4gWYjJ84gjJ-8k70C6ON_SsxuaGBoCdAMQAvD_BwE

I'm working out a similar problem right now. Considering a 3 pole switch but seems likely I could use a 2 pole and a relay instead.

Also, would it not be wise for Grn to use an inline fuse between the battery and the relay?

Actually Rook it has an inline fuse.

Okay.I got it installed.Working excellent.Thanks again guys for the help;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/19/2018 @ 2:10 AM *

Battery(Positive)
|
|
Relay-------Speaker--------Battery(Negative)
|
|-----Switched power source (ie daytime running lights)

So you hook the positive wire going into the relay to a positive source (battery + in this case).

Wire out of relay goes to positive wire going into accessory (speaker).

Negative wire out of accessory goes to ground (battery -).

A second wire goes from the accessory ground (battery -) to negative wire of switched circuit (radar).

When the switched circuit is switched ON, the power flowing from the switched circuit to ground pulls the relay closed. Power to the accessory is relayed ON. Power from the positive source (battery +) flows through the relay and the accessory to ground (battery -).

When the switched circuit is turned OFF, power is stopped in the switched circuit and the relay snaps open. Power to the accessory is stopped.

Is that how it works?

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/19/2018 @ 8:35 AM *

A two pole mini switch sounds easier and is less bulky. Same amount of wiring, probably. You're going to flip the switch to the radar only when you want to turn it on and that's the only time you want the speaker too.

A relay seems like it would be most valuable to turn something on automatically when another circuit is activated by default. example: accessory flashers come on when backup lights are activated on a semi. You don't want to have to remember to flip a switch to turn the flashers on. Let the backup light activate a relay. The backup lights have to come on if you put the transmission in Reverse.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/19/2018 @ 8:51 AM *

...matter of fact, you could use a regular single pole switch for what you're doing. Just hook two wires coming off of one terminal. One negative wire to radar, other negative to speaker. Both go into switch and out in one wire to ground at the same place. There are bolts on the steering neck that would serve as a good ground.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/19/2018 @ 8:57 AM *

I hooked the fused hot lead to the positive front running lamp lead.The black went to chassis ground.Kawasaki' wiring isn't always straightforward color wise.Took a try or two to find the lamp hot lead.

If you used a city light to power the speaker, that's about 10 amps on that circuit. IDK how much of that the city lights actually draw. If the speaker draws 5 amps, you might not get full power to it unless you remove the city light bulbs. If it's working, I wouldn't worry about it. The city lights have a fuse and the speaker has another fuse. The speaker is on all the time the ignition is on but the speaker won't draw any power unless the radar detector goes off.

I turned my high beams and city light connectors into temporary outlets for stuff in the cockpit. Someday I will cut the connectors off and solder the connection, probably but this works fine. Tape up the wires so the contacts stay put.

The leds(city lamps)draw very small power.Nothing like a bulb.Speaker is very loud.Adjustable also.

I'm sure you're all set.

She's so ready to alert!;)

I was concerned the detector would be in the way of the displays.Last time it was.It's totally clear of the dash now.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/19/2018 @ 10:40 PM *

So you hook the positive wire going into the relay to a positive source (battery + in this case).

Wire out of relay goes to positive wire going into accessory (speaker).

Negative wire out of accessory goes to ground (battery -).

A second wire goes from the accessory ground (battery -) to negative wire of switched circuit (radar).

When the switched circuit is switched ON, the power flowing from the switched circuit to ground pulls the relay closed. Power to the accessory is relayed ON. Power from the positive source (battery +) flows through the relay and the accessory to ground (battery -).

When the switched circuit is turned OFF, power is stopped in the switched circuit and the relay snaps open. Power to the accessory is stopped.

Is that how it works?

Yes, except the line "A second wire goes from the accessory ground (battery -) to negative wire of switched circuit (radar)." In my "diagram" there should be an extra wire going from the relay to the ground.

So to rewrite what you wrote slightly:

So you hook the positive wire (Relay Wire #1) going into the relay to a positive source (battery + in this case).

Wire out of relay goes to positive wire (Relay Wire #2) going into accessory (speaker).

Negative wire out of accessory goes to ground (battery -).

Wire (Relay Wire #3) goes from the ground (battery -) to negative wire of relay.

Wire a positive wire (Relay Wire #4) to a switched power source (ie city lights)

When the switched circuit is switched ON, the power flowing from the switched circuit to ground pulls the relay closed. Power to the accessory is relayed ON. Power from the positive source (battery +) flows through the relay and the accessory to ground (battery -).

When the switched circuit is turned OFF, power is stopped in the switched circuit and the relay snaps open. Power to the accessory is stopped.

lol.I guess;)Ground lead to chassis ground.Hot lead to city lamp(and + battery post).Ignition on...speaker on.This is completely separate from the radar which is connected to +- of the battery.Switchable on/off on the detector.Speaker plugs into radar with 3.5mm jack.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/21/2018 @ 11:16 AM *

Wire a positive wire (Relay Wire #4) to a switched power source (ie city lights)

I see. Or relay wire #4 could be hooked to the radar detector so the speaker would only come on when the radar detector was turned on.

Sounds like Grn has it set up without a relay.

Yeah...simple.No relays.My brain hurts trying to figure this stuff out.Even though it's so easy,a caveman could do it! I guess the only relay would be the ignition switch.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/21/2018 @ 5:17 PM *

Nightmare (or anyone)-- do you think it is necessary to fasten a relay to a flexible rubber mount? I noticed that some of the stock relays are held in rubber mounts. There are two at the front and one i know of on the LH side of the tail.

I will be using a couple flasher relays for my switch panel LEDs and wondered if I need to figure out some kind of shock resistant mount or can I just stick the relays to the frame. A bike is pretty shaky compared to a car. Bumps are harder with the short wheel base and I'm sure the suspension is harder and quicker too.

I don't know what kind of relay these are--solid state or otherwise. I would think otherwise. They are not very expensive. One is for automotive use. Other IDK what environment it is designed for. Both are relays to cause LEDs to flash (wig-waggers), not to turn another circuit ON/OFF with a switched circuit.

Niether of these relays are crucial to maintaining current through my switches so even if one fails, I'm safe.

Brings up the question though: is a relay less safe than a manual switch? More vulnerable to vibration since it has easily moved contacts where a switch locks in position securely?

There should be a relay thread.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/23/2018 @ 6:49 PM *