Anyone have any tips on tools and procedure for replacing factory plugs on the zx14R?Thanks all...the service manual is a bit vague on just what tool(s)and HOW to do it except removing the air switching valve deal...which I'd rather not mess with if possible.It doesn't show the plug wrench or the distances between the airbox and headcover...I know the distances are tighter now.I have the 16mm plug socket(3/8ths drive)...but what next?A 3/8ths knuckle joint and extension?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/27/2013 @ 1:45 PM *

Pair valve switch has gotta go bud!! It's in the way otherwise. Photograph how the hoses went if you need to! The hardest part for me was getting the stick coils out, they are tight and the is no room to work. Whatever you do, do not use anything to pry on them. Just twist and pull straight up while holding your tongue just right. Once they were out I used a socket with a swivel and a short extension to carefully drop down in the hole. Then I put the ratchet on the extension, no room in there so it was after the socket was on the plug. I used a spark plug socket so it would hold the plug to pull it out. When you put the new ones back in be very carefully and certain you start them straight as you will be installing them blindly!!! 2-4 all have to be done from the right side. When you reinstall the stick coil put dielectric grease on the sparkplug side and grease the outside of the coil that goes in the hole, I used white lithium grease. The grease is to make it easier to pull next time. Plug your wires back in the correct order and be sure they sit just like the picture in the book. Reinstall your pair switch. I hope this helps in some way! Good luck! It's a tight squeeze in there!

* Last updated by: nasty on 8/27/2013 @ 1:50 PM *

Awesome Nasty...perfect how to on this....thanks a million..and I will be careful to not crossthread...yup...easy to do.Your pic was just what I figured I'd need.Any issues removing that switching valve?Getting to the bolts?I'm gonna have to remove the complete side fairings aren't I?Not just the side covers...right?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/27/2013 @ 2:04 PM *

On another subject...If I want to inspect my countershaft sprocket...can I just remove the lower belly fairing and go from there?Those fairing inside bolts are a pain to get outta there....OR...

is there a way to look at the teeth from the rear of the chain run up by the swingarm pivot area..you know,shine a light in there and check the teeth wear?Would be SO much easier to do it that way if possible....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/27/2013 @ 2:04 PM *

Yes its all gotta go. The switch valve is easy peasy! The 4 hoses on the switch are gonna require a good yank, but they go back on easy. The front two you can pull right away but the inside ones you'll have to pull after you unbolt the switch and have it unplugged. Bolts are east to get to.

I don't know.

You'll need to pull the whole fairing getup anyway for the plugs. Try then.

Thanks again N....looks like I'm gonna be doing this in a few days...7500 miles came around quick!I'd rather go to about 12K on the plugs...BUT...Hub's explanation and the book interval I should probably keep....

as for a visual on that countershaft...I know you can see in there from the rear of it....just don't know yet if I could actually 'see' any wear on those teeth...I think so...hopefully;)Probably couldn't tell though IF they were 'hooked'...I already replaced the rear sprocket several K ago....it wasn't like...'worn out'...but I figured why wait and damage the chain.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/27/2013 @ 2:11 PM *

I like to apply a little anti seize the threads on the spark plugs. Double check the plug gap. NGK is usually pretty consistan.

My understanding is that the spark plug removal method on Gen1 and Gen2 is the same, including the tool used. Not counting the plastics removal, everything else should still be the same. Am I wrong? Will someone please enlighten me as to what is different?

Kofla

Riding My Own Biography
2010 ZX-14 MotoVlog

NGK says not to use anti-seize on THEIR New plugs, only one ones that are used being reinstalled.

Hey don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger LOL !

For spark plugs with special metal plating; do not use anti-seize on the initial installation. If a spark plug with special metal plating is removed and re-installed, only then should anti-seize be used prior to “re-installation”

All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body.

Click Here !!

* Last updated by: carabuser on 8/27/2013 @ 4:43 PM *

Same photos as Rook's how-to. Right plugs were easy to get to on the gen1 bikes. Gen2, you have the tank emission hoses and recovery pump sitting in the way of the right side plugs. I think one bolt moves it to the side? Other than that, it's same-same as you said, Kof.

NGK uses this coating that stops the bonding of the old style plugs that would guess watt? Oxidize around the threads. What is the killer of the battery posts? The electricity that is being passed and leaves a trail of that white ghostshit.

Same photos as Rook's how-to. Right plugs were easy to get to on the gen1 bikes. Gen2, you have the tank emission hoses and recovery pump sitting in the way of the right side plugs. I think one bolt moves it to the side? Other than that, it's same-same as you said, Kof.

Thanks Hub.

Kofla

Riding My Own Biography
2010 ZX-14 MotoVlog

NGK says not to use anti-seize on THEIR New plugs, only one ones that are used being reinstalled

Welcome, Kof. If you yank the plugs as per, these are fresh enough not to cause the electrolysis you find leaving the plugs in longer.

Just get rid of thzt fucking PAIR solenoid. Can you do that on the gen2? bolt some blockoff plates on there . It is so much more roomy.

Okay...thanks guys.I know the procedure is the same...basically I wanted to know what tool(s) to use...since the airbox and Valve cover are somewhat closer....didn't know if an extension would fit in there attached to the socket wrench.Nasty covered it okay...thanks everyone;)Neither of my tool kits for the 2012 and 2013 came with that plug wrench like the Gen 1's.That's why I was wondering.

I do have a pair blockoff set unused for the 2012/13 engine.Supposed to be installed with the Ivan mapping...I never needed to....it didn't backfire at all...and still doesn't with just the ECU flash.IDK if I can just remove the pair deal and block with the setup as it is now...I hate to mess with something that may be necessary for whatever reason....the venting and stuff is a bit different on the 2012/13's.Anyone have any knowledge with these model years and the pair system?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/27/2013 @ 9:34 PM *

Lol! I've gone through my tool kit a few times and there ain't a damn thing in there that would ever be of use on the side of the road or even for maintainace purpose if you have a good collection of tools at home!! Come to think of it, I don't even know why I'm still carrying it around when I could ditch the whole box and make room for a gas station burrito to eat when I get home after an evening of terrorizing the world!

* Last updated by: nasty on 8/27/2013 @ 9:49 PM *

LOL!Yeppers;)I know what ya mean.I ditched the 'basic kit' and made up my own.I have NO idea WHY Kawasaki didn't include that spark plug tool in there...no idea.

While I was in New York I was searching in there for a tire pressure gauge and no luck! There is one now!

" a tire pressure gauge"...yup,and a CO2 tire repair kit as well;)A 'must have' along with the Rad guard....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/27/2013 @ 9:45 PM *

Just get rid of thzt fucking PAIR solenoid. Can you do that on the gen2? bolt some blockoff plates on there . It is so much more roomy.

2nd but

If you remove the pair system on the 14 R the guys are reporting check engine light ???? Any of you guys here ?

I do have a pair blockoff set unused for the 2012/13 engine.Supposed to be installed with the Ivan mapping...I never needed to....it didn't backfire at all...and still doesn't with just the ECU flash.IDK if I can just remove the pair deal and block with the setup as it is now...I hate to mess with something that may be necessary for whatever reason....the venting and stuff is a bit different on the 2012/13's.Anyone have any knowledge with these model years and the pair system?

Grn any pics ???? did Ivan give you anything that looks like a resistor maybe a plug ?

* Last updated by: Romans on 8/27/2013 @ 10:04 PM *

I disconnected the line(s) running to the canister a while back....plugged em off.I did indeed get a check engine light that would not go out until I reconnected the lines again.

"Just get rid of thzt fucking PAIR solenoid. Can you do that on the gen2? bolt some blockoff plates on there . It is so much more roomy"...yes..agreed...on the Gen 1's.The 14R is configured with less room regardless of that switching valve.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/27/2013 @ 9:57 PM *

I did indeed get a check engine light that would not go out until I reconnected the lines again.

Yikes, In my opinion do not do this mod until this gets worked out. You could have other problem arise and never know it. Could be as simple as fan not running,, all bad