Just for the record I love the bike. HATE working on this one. Such a pain in the butt.

Today I finally decided to change sprockets and chain. Easy job, right? Hell no. Last bike I had to do this on, had 5 bolts for cover, remove nut on output shaft, and done. This damn thing have to remove clutch save, then cover, and then........damn nut strips on output shaft. SOB. Already tried the 35mm socket for a second shot at it. Nut not moving. I have not had to cut a nut etc off in years. Hopefully hand is steady enough.

With 28k on the parts, I guess I should have expected them to want to stay.

Don't feel bad, I've been going thru the exact same shit this past weekend.
I ended up getting lucky with a 3/4" 800lb/ft impact gun. I don't know how because it didn't work the night before. The moon musta aligned with the sun?
I made a mistake of starting off with a 12 point 27MM socket which ate the nut up reall good but I was careful not to spin it all the way. The next day I picked up a 6 point 27MM and also a kit with some big impact sockets from advance auto. Never did find a 35MM though. 34MM and 36MM all day long. But no 35MM.
So I thought the 6p 27MM was gonna round off the nut if I wasn't careful with that big impact. I was planning on taking it to a stealer and letting them screw it up and hope they'd replace it, but I knew it wouldn't work out that way. Stealerships ALWAYS end up screwing me somehow not that I let them. Thank gods I didn't have to go there.
Nevertheless, I was sweatin it big time. And now my bike sits until I can get my new nut I ordered from Ron Ayers last Friday. I don't know why I ordered from them again? They take their sweet-ass time shipping orders. Still haven't got confirmation.

Feel for ya though. Cutting off a nut in that spot is gonna be a pain.

Oh and I fingered out why the nut is $25 retail. It doubles as part of the speed sensor system.

Why they couldn't put more contact area for that socket on there, I'll never know?

Good luck with your extraction!

I am soo looking forward to the cutting off part. NOT. Hoping I will be able to find the nut while in Sacramento today. If not, then it will be even longer the old girl sits.

What a PITA... Sorry about the problems you're having with it... I swear that counter shaft nut is the ONLY thing Kawi actually did torque down on this bike. I took my stock header off with just my fingers.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 6/14/2011 @ 11:27 AM *

Suppose you have already considered it but maybe try a 22 socket on the small flats and a 35mm box end on the bigs at the same time turn both. Be very careful not to topple the bike under all that force.

I would not try a 12 point socket. 6 is the only way to go. I was lucky w mine. just a 24" braker bar made it pretty easy work. Try to get a hold of a big impact driver if a bar and 6 pt seems to be not enough.

You did flatten the lock washer? It is not readily apparent how that thing works but I guarantee that nut will not turn if the washer is not is touches the flats at all. You will see when you take it off.

like they needed a flat washer! LOL

I guess im the only one that did not have a problem with my sprocket change I thought it was cake but im sure I will have my fare share of headaches soon when I do the spark plugs.Glad you got that nut off edge and hope your new one shows up quick so you can get out and ride!

* Last updated by: COOTER on 6/14/2011 @ 10:34 PM *

I am fairly sure I have the washer flat, Now that I read the "you will see when it's off" comment, thinking I will triple check. I tried a wrench on the outer part of the nut, and it deformed. Have not tried multiple tools on the nut at the same time. Not sure if it's worth trying to get 2 wrenches on it. If I can get Dremel in there, should not be too bad. A bit paranoid about damaging the threads. I used to remove hardware from aircraft, but it has been a long time. Hopefully it will be like riding a bike, and I will be able to do so still. Ordered parts today. $32 dollars for nut and washer. Gotta love it.

Plan on spending some time on it tomorrow. Will let ya know how much more fun I get to have.

Ron

You do not need to remove the slave...it can stay attached to the cover.Just tape the cover out of the way there.Best to use the 35mm....but it's a KAWASAKI socket...not one yer gonna find in the store.I do believe the std 1/2 inch drive,1 and 3/8ths will hold that nut enough to get er to spin...but ya got to hold it on there STRAIGHT IN.It can't be angled.Put the bike in first gear,roll forward till she locks into gear.Rear stand works very well for having the bike vertical and allowing a straight bite onto that nut.DO NOT RELEASE THE POWER once she grabs.Keep the impact going.It may slip off at first...just reset on there,and blast away.It will break free.As ROOK said...be CAREFUL when applying and holding that impact on there...the bike will want to move away from ya..After that initial nut change...it'll be much easier the next time...so long as you don't go nutso tightening it with your impact.Mine is a Kobalt 350 lb electric impact.Works VERY well.And as mentioned...ANY portion of that washer not being FLAT against the spline housing face,it isn't gonna come loose.Has to be completely flat.Turn counter clockwise to loosen(course,you KNEW that).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/15/2011 @ 12:58 AM *

Hmmm. I tried a 35mm on it. Will get the standard size and try it. At this point will be easier than cutting. Thanks all for the ideas.

.Put the bike in first gear,roll forward till she locks into gear.

Well I don't know about screwing up the gears removing the nut. Seems like jerking up a wheelie could be a lot more damaging. lol
I do know one thing, as soon as I did what Hub suggested and took it out of gear and just used the rear brake it loosened up. Don't know if it had anything to with it but it's worth a try if you have any nut left.

If you do have any nut left I would suggest you go get yourself a 6pt 27mm deep socket. If you have access to Menard's stores buy a Sanborn branded 3/4" 800ft/lb pneumatic impact gun. It looks like a huge cheap Cambell & Hausfield but it's actually pretty beefy and only costs $99. I'm actually gonna keep it even though I planned to return it when I was done. You will need a decent air compressor to run it. Like a big vertical two stage and about 125psi. And put the bike in neutral and have someone hold the rear brake. It hit a lot harder than the fancy lookin $200 Ingersol Rand 600ft/lb I bought before that.
Worked for me, maybe it could still work for you. And my shit was ungodly tight.

If you do have to cut the nut off, at least the nut is a softer material and once you get down to the thread area maybe you be able to just peel the thread pieces back. Sometimes just cutting some lines in a nut is enough to weaken the hold it has on the bolt and it'll twist off. Either way if you have any nut left to turn on try everything you can before you start hacking.

I make the chain tite then have somebody lock the back brake then hit the nut with an impact gun. That is the easiest way for me 3/4 in breaker bar and pipe will so it to.

I am hunting sockets at this point. Tried 22mm as one of ya suggested. Too small. Measured it with a mic, and comes out just over 24. So going to try 25mm. Still looking for a 1 3/8s. Have probably close to a week before the new parts are here, so no big hurry. I want to eliminate all possibilities before I start cutting.

And the fun continues...........

Got the beast back together today. What a difference the 43 rear makes. Have always thought this bike was a bit weak on bottom. Lofted the front end a couple of times tonight. So far only real drawback to the change is my speedo being off by 10 above 50, and 5 below. Not sure how the hell that is happening. Taking on 150 mile trip this weekend, so will get to check mileage. Thinking that is going to suffer a bit. Looks like I am running as much as 1,000 rpm more for same gear/speed. One of the reasons I made the change. Sixth gear seemed almost worthless.

I have a SpeedoDRD for the correcting my mph. It's a cheaper option to the healers available but is very accurate.
Glad you got it back together. Was your 43 a steel or aluminum. I had to go 41 because all the steel 43s were back ordered...:(

Well..good...glad ya got er dun!

Coot said..."fuc^ shi# up putting it in gear".How many guys here...honestly....don't put their bike in 1st gear when they're parked on a "possible" decline?(not no downhill).I've done the rear brake deal also.....after a few replacement sprocket jobs on the front,you learn just how tight to turn that nut on there.Makes life SO much easier the next time around!

Might be dicey for ya Zxnit....that speedo read.Better pace someone till ya see just how far she IS off.One good radar hit...could be....well,you know!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/24/2011 @ 8:43 AM *

@Blue used GPS to recalibrate my brain. Held constant speed through a few GPS "refreshes".

@Edge- Went with Vortex Alum rear. I have had good luck with them in the past, and it's what they had instock. Going to decide on a correction device at some point, but not overly concerned. Not the first bike I have owned with gearing change causing speedo to be off.

So far only real drawback to the change is my speedo being off by 10 above 50, and 5 below. Not sure how the hell that is happening.

That is the way it goes when you change geasring. You change the speed the output sprocket nut turns and the speed sensor reads it as it always did. It turns more times in a given period of time now so the sensor interprets that to be more mph.

Taking on 150 mile trip this weekend, so will get to check mileage. Thinking that is going to suffer a bit.

Looks like I am running as much as 1,000 rpm more for same gear/speed.

I am easing into the geared down power. Now that the weather has improved and I have gotten used to riding again I'm seeing this 45T is the shizts! I felt the front lift off in second gear tonight and that wasn't even full throttle and it had a decent way to go before hitting redline.

I have a speedohealer on mine and it works great but be very careful about keeping water off of it. Had a very weird thing happen a couple weeks ago where it seemed the speedo's top speed was artificially simulated and the limiter activated because of a possible water short. This was right after I washed the bike. It was not a thing I would want to have happen at speed. bUT YOU NEED SOME KIND OF SPEED CORRECTION on there