Anyone know how to synch this 14R?What would I need to do this(tools)...procedure?Thanks in advance....;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/21/2013 @ 10:24 AM *

First thing > Block off PAIR with a cork.
Find the sync boots, install your manometer hoses there.
Find how you look at the mano tubes, they match cylinders from left to right.

Warm engine. Watch the levels begin to change when all heats up.

You'll need a 90 degree bent screwdriver that may be gear driven or cable twisted. Gear driven has the better angle, you bend the cable style too far and collapse the housing.

If all fluid levels look even, leave alone.
If one tube level is high, it may be the air screw, not the plates.

Read the shop manual's abstract to see what they mean between the air and plate screws.

Thanks Hub...yeah...I did read it...it says to remove the TB's from the bike,and attach the hoses.Does this bike need to go through all that to attach the hoses?Is there some way to attach those hoses in bike...and the TB screws...can they be reached with that tool?Which do you recommend..Brand...and with the Synch unit....which brand?Thanks.

I have here the part numbers for the Kawasaki tools...where would I find these?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/21/2013 @ 11:05 AM *

Let me ask you this...sometimes when I've been riding...and I stop for whatever reason with the bike idling...she'll hunt...a little bit...operating temps normal.Other times...she'll be smooth completely...operating temps normal.Any ideas on this?I would think if the TB's needed synching,it would behave like this every time it was run?

Does this bike need to go through all that to attach the hoses?

I couldn't. Too much plumbing and wiring. And the spigot caps are on there tight. No way I could've removed them in situ.

The company Motion Pro that sells the 4 channel manometer has a good dyi video that explains the process

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 9/21/2013 @ 12:40 PM *

Removal: I'm going to rack the bike, see if I can attach the two outer sync's. Yes, book walk says to remove throttle body. Here's the first time loophole. Upon removal, prepare to buy extension hoses, t-fittings, and end plug fittings, so your next sync is not to be removed again. You run the hoses off to the sides, long are they, and marked they are for cylinder reference.

Manometer: There are 4 colors at the bottom/top/you pick, that show the yellow hose is #1, the next mano tube over is color blue, as is #2's blue markings, or a color band near the hose end. So no matter how you had to cross the lines over, you'll still matching hose to color tubes.

Cheap seats: Since the two mains are machined perfect and on one bank of body, you are going to align the other main plate on the other outside cylinder. So 1 and 4 sync the mains. You just want to check first. Then, if there is a hunt at those mano tubes, you'll know they are off enough. That attempt to clear that 'up and down hunt' with the cheap seat sync, you might need to smooth the air screws one more time... IF ... It was this type scenario.

Let us say the sync is perfect. The engine still hunts. One big thing about this badboy is now the idle is air assist. That's why you can't get to the sync nipples with those neighboring larger hoses running off vacuum. So I am going to guess heat is one bubble to the hunt.

I think since you mentioned that the smooth idle at normal times and hunts at normal times too, well, this seems to point to ambient and that air bubble cooking that bike. Say the right air pressure/temp/ambient will cause our air assist idle to hunt sometimes. Because it is not a sync if the smooth [no hunt] comes back to normal. It can't be compression loss to one other cylinder. That would show up as a hunt. An air leak might hunt. Compression won't change like the weather, so if a cylinder is down, it's down tomorrow too. The spring of the mains won't twist back to smooth, twist and hunt again the next day. Weather might be involved being this needs the assist of the t-body pressures.

Okay...you guys rock....I 'kinda' thought Hub that the ambient and 'heat' might be causing this...though I didn't know what is what.That keeping the hoses on there is a great idea...thanks you guys for the info and advice....

"One big thing about this badboy is now the idle is air assist"....good to know...thank you.