* Last updated by: privateer on 2/19/2012 @ 8:02 AM *

You're gonna shoot your eye out, Kid!

AWESOME, Bro!
Congratulations!

Congratulations privateer you finally got her!!!!!!
@ Dogo LOL a Christmas story reference in February.

Looks good, John. Further farkles coming, i assume?

very nice...congrats

@ Dogo LOL a Christmas story reference in February.

nice ride Congrats

Nice Priv! Happy motoring!

Privateer finally got his new ride! Very nice sir! Can's wait to see the mods and how it comes along. So, does the Connie feel better on the back, shoulder and whatnot? Once again, CONGRATULATIONS!

Yes, Bears, it does feel better. I even put big Genmar riser blocks in as well, and dropped pegs. Won't be dragging knees with this baby but can move through corners fast enough.

* Last updated by: privateer on 4/17/2012 @ 2:40 PM *

Sounds like you are really making this one your own. I have been becoming a real admirer of the concours every since my riding partner got his 2012 at the end of last year. He is really knowledgable about those things. He got an 08 when they first came out, and has had a slew of bikes since then. If you are on the coni site, he is probably known as frontrunner.
I actually looked at an 08, with 9 miles on it this weekend (that's right, nine miles). He purchased it new in 08, along with a top case, and larger windshield, and only rode it in his subdivision. The bike was delivered with 6 miles.

Those seats look amazing I might have to send them my connie seat for their "sport" treatment. Where do I find this ProjectD?

Hard to google them, so here is the link: ProjektD

They are overseas, but ship quick. And so shipping is a bit but not all that higher than US online stores. And they have some very cool farkles.

I just got my radiator guard and "handy stick" today from them. The radiator guard goes on easier than the Cox. The top of the guard has two brackets which perfectly go over the top of the radiator, and then you bolt it on the bottom same as the Cox. So no messing with tie wraps on top. It also seems better made.

So now if I can find time to go to the shop, and machine some stuff for my new GPS / XM antenna mounting scheme, that will be one more thing on the checklist, checked.

That side stand foot looks like it would attach to a zx14 stand

You could check the fiche (my dealer has parts fiche online and you can order parts from it, as does bikebandit and others) and see if they have the same part number.

My guess is the foot on the C14 side stand is wider than the ZX14 to begin with.

* Last updated by: privateer on 2/27/2012 @ 8:33 PM *

She looks good dressed in black. There is nothing like the feeling of getting a new bike.

Well, you know me, Scottfarm, I can't leave well enough alone.

I've decided to leave the engine and exhaust stock, I love the quiet and smoothness. I will still go to GUHL this summer and get him to re-flash to open flies immediately off idle and keep them open, and to adjust the timing just a tad for a tiny bit of power and torque. Nothing earthshaking.

I am putting my GPS on it, but a whole new way available with the C14. The XM smart antenna mounts on a small pedastal which attached to the back of the cradle, so its all one unit now. And my remote for the Dispatch 1 electronic fuse control will be there too, so I can get to it with my left hand easy. Using the ProjekD "handy stick" to mount them on.

So this weekend, the body panels come off left and right, and I'll finish installing the Disptach 1, and the Denali D2 LED driving lights, and the within two weeks I should be able to finish up the Rostra electronic cruise control. It is hella easy to install on the C14, just gather up 6 wires from the servo (main) unit, and attach them to the positive pigtail under the rubber boot on the left side under the ram air cover / glovebox. Then gather up 4 wires and attach them to the negative pigtail there, with a relay for good measure to flip/flop toggle the Engage light on the cc control pad mounted on the right hand grip area, easy to thumb it to SET and ACCEL there.

And since I'm taping the brake light wire for the cc I might as well install the Back Off module for the brake light, every bit of attention getting back there is added safety.

So I've got a bit of work to get done. Glad I didn't get put in the VA hospital, and since the surgeon put huge shots in both knees, I will have 3 weeks of being able to get a lot of work done before it wears off.

Pictures soon (tm)

privateer; Wouldn't opening the flies off idle change the "smoothness" you like?

A little bit, but the biggest change to a Concours 14 from Don Guhls C14 version of the secondary butterfly opening table (it is all table driven) is that it doesn't snap open, it rolls open sooner, and progressively faster as you roll on the throttle.

Stock, the flies open past 2,200 just a tad, and then depending on throttle position, more as you roll throttle on. All the Guhl re-flash does is crack the flies at like 1,200 rpm a little (stock they are still closed) and open them all the way by 3,800 or so.

This is different from just taking the flies out.

The biggest driveability difference (and we in COG have lots of instrumented data - grin) is in the rpm range below 4,000 rpm, so it makes a little more power down low. We aren't looking for top end, or drag strip performance. Just more grunt sooner.

If anything it makes it smoother.

I installed the Stebel today. Split the compressor from the horn and mounted compressor under the right top cover.

Ran hose down to oem horn mount, where the plastic Stebel Nautilus horns are mounted.

Used Murph's harness, so it attaches to my oem horn connectors and has a built-in relay and 20A fuse. Well, it came with a 15A fuse but word is they pop after two or three good blasts.

And man is it loud!

Here is a photo of the compressor, mounted. I moved it to the left side above the reservoir so I can put the Rostra electronic cruise control actuator box on the right side under the air tunnel cover.

* Last updated by: privateer on 4/30/2012 @ 6:25 PM *

Nice bike privateer! Saw the brown one today at ellicott city motorsports. Sweet and comfy. Getting my zx14r soon and planning to add either a stebel or PIAA sports horn and wire an alarm to the lights and the horn. Sounds like a good idea to run it thru a relay with direct power from the battery. I hadn't figured if that was absolutely necessary. Why, is it underpowered going with the stock wiring?

The Stebel Nautilus compressor will eat your stock wiring / fuse alive. It pops a 15A fuse with ease, and your bike is almost all 10A fuses and a couple 2 and 3 amp ones.

If you buy the wiring harness from Murph (Murph's Kits, google finds instantly) then you connect one set of leads to your stock bike-side horn connectors, and the other to the compressor, and the +/- to the battery through a 20A fuse, and it makes good sound.

Or you can wire your own, the relay wiring is not rocket science, and google will show you diagrams way more times than you need (LOL) how to do it. Just use a waterproof relay, or put silicon adhesive on the openings at the base.

With Murph's harness, I siliconed the controller (which is also the relay) where it plugs into the wiring harness, and the leads I wasn't using. This harness lets you keep your stock horn if you want, as it has spare connectors for it. Some people like the mixed sound. I yanked my OEM horn, I have no use for that junk. Heh.

If you want a good Compact Nautilus, the older kind without all the plastic cowling making you cut it all off to slip the compressor out, go to Amazon and search "compact nautilus" and one shop sells one, make sure its "stebel compact nautilus" and has good reviews. These all you have to do to remove the compressor is put a screwdriver in the the plastic latch that holds the compressor in, bend it out of the way, and pop the air intake off the compressor. Out it comes. I cut the air intake off the plastic horn part, and glued it back on the compressor, to help keep junk from entering it. I may hook the snorkel up and put a microphone foam ball on the end for good measure.

I'm not sure if you can find room for a Stebel on your ZX14, maybe you can. The compressor has to be vertical or it will prematurely go bad.

Oh, and you need the following to run the compressor seperate:

1) several feet of 5/16" ID vinyl hose, clear
2) small hose clamp (1/4" to 1/2" range if possible, it will clamp the hose to the compressor output port)
3) 2-1/4" hose clamp (to clamp the compressor to whatever you use to hold it, above I just fabricated an aluminum bracket and didn't need it)
4) 90 degree elbow barbed fitting, for 5/16" ID hose

I'm just using a simple short slightly bent aluminum bracket to mount the plastic horns to the existing wishbone horn bracket. When I can, I'll take a picture. I've got it as close to the radiator as I can, sitting at about the angle of the radiator, and under compression it won't touch the fender.

Another reason to use Murph's harness is the controller isolates the connectors. So you don't have to worry about connecting the relay to the appropriate polarity connector, and you can plug the horn's compressor in without regard to the polarity markings on the connectors of the compressor. If you wire your own relay, it matters.

* Last updated by: privateer on 4/4/2012 @ 8:27 AM *

Thanks privateer for taking time to explain it all. Much appreciated. I guess I will see if others have used the stebel nautilus on the zx14 and if there is room. I know it fits the busa so I assume no problems with the zx14. Another option is the PIAA sports horn which is louder than stock but not as loud as the stebel. Plus it doesn't have a compressor. Is the murph relay waterproof?

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/mobile/ItemPage.aspx?DivisionGroupId=3&DivisionId=13&DepartmentId=123&ItemStyleId=17147

* Last updated by: KFORCE1 on 4/4/2012 @ 2:26 PM *

Reread my post, above yours. It used clear RTV silicon adhesive sealant on the controller where it plugs into the wiring harness, and on the unused connectors, so now its waterproof.