I had a couple of questions about clutch covers. looking around on ebay like 95% of all the clutch covers are from china. Has anyone here purchased one and if so hows it holding up? Another thing they all say does not include oil view glass? WTF? stupid question but can I use the oil view glass from the oem clutch cover how does that work? last question is are gen 1 clutch covers identical to gen 2 clutch covers? I hate how everyone on ebay will advertise zx14r 06-11. zx14r is 12-14 .....06-11 is just zx14. thanks for any input in advance you guys.

anyone?

Looks like you pop out the old oil level window and press it into the aftmrk cover. These covers should fit and if I'm right, the gasket pattern should be the same from day one. So any '06 to 2014 should work... If the gasket matches over and over, year after year.

stupid question but can I use the oil view glass from the oem clutch cover how does that work?

I'm going to machine a wall with an O/D the size a little bit smaller than the seal dropping in. So it rather compresses the oil seal as it installs. This is a press-fit and my thumbs can press that seal back in the other cover. How to get it out from behind, you press the seal out with the back side of socket matching that diameter. Stay off the glass as a pressing in or out [helper], so as not to crack that [now stressed] area. I'm going to also, machine deep into the cover so the seal stops at a back wall. I have both depth and interference fit machined into the cover. I know how to cast and now do I know how to machine for a seal like steal the OE's depth and squeeze numbers. Think aftmrk would fit, but they are off that tiny bit> watch out!

I'm a used seal; already been squeezed; don't have the expanding memory I once had; may pop out from pressure say; to some foreign machine cut all out of tolerance. With that said, I wipe the old seal clean of oil. I now run a bead of yamabond/hondabond/kawikrap around the O/D of the seal and push the seal into the aftmrk cover. I leave the bead of bond on and let it dry or I wipe off as much as possible when still wet: your choice.

I'm the type that would attempt the reuse of the gasket and seal, then install everything dry. I'd use the old [is it steel?] gasket. Ask the drag racers how many times they reused this kind of gasket? Same goes for the window level seal. I have a leak after that, I buy new and install dry again, no bonding goo.

If say you are looking at scratches not a puncture at the cover, I'd watch how to remove scrapes and gouges off aluminum. I'd take a drill and lock its trigger and start experimenting some salvage work vs. your anal-ing over a scratched part, then cheap out with a cover that's questionable, rather than buck it up to the OE. If you wanted new, ass in anal new, you'd OE and quit fucking around with aftmk, the shipping and now you are all even at the dealer counter if you bought the OE, you keep the dealer around if not for a few bucks more. Oopseas, did I say that?

Y-es U did.

I'd go China on aftermarket engine covers because they are cheap enough you don't need to worry about it if you end up tossing it out. It's prolly cast pot metal so it won't be stronger than OEM.

If you buy quality CNCed engine covers, they will take a crash but you will be adding weight. The OEM cover looks very nice so I plan to stick with it. I may pick up a used one if I can find it cheap enough.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/30/2014 @ 7:29 AM *

Bought a chrome one off ebay, took a pick and poppped out my oil glass washed thoughly and reinstalled bak in the chrome piece with a little high temp gasket seal and no leaks going on 2 years now. Just make sure the surfaces are clean and dry and let it set up after you seal it up for at least 24 hours is the way I did it. My 2cents.

Thank you guys for your input I guess im going to give it a try.