Vic, where is that short stock blip vs flash? Lost it didn't you?
jc, dealer level has the diagnostic kit if not, s'he needs to read their contract is to have said equipment on hand etc. So they go in there and one radio click, she starts as if, hello?
This is where it takes years for the computer bike to come with that glitch and know where to look? I'm just guessing and they go nowhere. Here's watt I wouldn't have done. Buy the ECU. In other words, it would ride up to 3k, so off to a dealer or used bike shop, or bike for sale kind of swap the ECU rather than buy half a brick? That's; lost new brick money that could have gone to... IF... finding one to swap and it WAS the ECU, half that money is burned towards a used one that may not work with the key ping. Then, new key switch assembly for a non-alarm 14.
Now, you threw parts at it, and this was more what I meant was.. WE do not know where to look? There are no codes that pop up and explain where the signal is not being [watt I think is a filtering] or a poor square wave is in a saw blade kind of pattern ['signal our of range'].
If I had a scope that could hookup to every sensor, had all the squares saved is a good known running bike. I find where the one sawtooth wave pops up on the sensor in question... See how you could scope a square to a sawtooth pattern?
WARMUP:
WATT can I determine from this?
1. Heat is the first clue. Why? 2 things are happening.
a. The bike is set to morning map; where the actuator opens the throttle plate via the ramp connection.
b. The ramp is closed when warm, but since I can't ride the bike, run my timing light test for fuel or spark, I have to come up with why it revs cold, stumbles hot?
c. So morning map system is; the ramp closes or you'd rev without touching the throttle it idles high.
d. That says it closes the morning rich too you'd assume; if the ramp works, so will the change in map?
2. Heat in the cold engine is to fatten up the fuel to air so when hot, atomization is in play with the help of expansion of the heat happening. So I can't say the morning map is on or say too rich and it stalls warmed in other words.
a. No stall and idles as if nothing is wrong, correct?
b. Starts right up warm is no morning map or rich condition is occurring. Correct?
c. Heat begins to happen to most of the sensors in all sorts of temps. Signal out of range? No for now.
d. The crank sensor is a lot hotter than say the tps that is not hooked to the engine's heat. Still runs.
3. Heat, when up to running temp, is the second part happening; is heat to the telemetry.
a. Who has warmed up to temp, be it thru the water temp off the back of the engine, the crank sensor splashed with oil heat, the 5v sent to the other sensors is heat travels thru a wire and who is breaking down when heat rises = Resistance Occurs becomes the ^^^^^^ hacksaw wave, not the |_________|square wave.
b. I'm going to assume that is how the computer is sending out the output is junk in.
c. This move is going to cost you more in home schooling, meaning, self-diagnosing tuition money.
d. You now bring in a variable of cold rev/warm stumble is I'm sure is heat related.
4th Variable(s):
a. Cold = Every sensor is within spec, yes or no?
b. Hot = Here comes the 3k Glitch.
c. Can't be the crank is possible cold or hot it might send in junk. No, can't be a sensor is if it's out of spec cold, it's out of spec hot no code present. So, the ECU is not programmed like the ape where it shows you what winker side bulb is out front or rear.
d. Water temp sensor? That more stumbles right out the gate.
e. That one tube off the intake vac would code. The wire off the vac would code. The bike would stall with the air leak; the wire off would mimic the harsh stumble is an intake sensor.
f. Which brings me back to the ECU not swapping [out of] map when warm?
g. Which brings to a disconnect I pull this out of my rectal cranium.
Lets move the 02 sensor? You don't have one? You have under the seat an atmospheric/intake sensor? What happens if we swap the intake with the atmo sensor? WATT happens if we remove the 02 connector and ride in code is the backup mapping/overrides current map.
So we have 3 tries?
1. If this has one... and I say this for the generic someone searches for a glitch with an 02, lets remove it and ride it warm to stumble. It it stumbles warm, it's not the 02 and backup.
2. If we take a golf tee and close the hose off the intake air sensor, warm rev, we still have the intake wired in.
3. We now remove the intake air vac and hook it back up to the sensor, now disconnect the sensor and rev warm.
4. Finally, if we have the atmo sensor sitting under the seat, left side rail, we want to swap those two, being they are the same sensor. So if it does not work, we just reconnect the atmo back onto the rail, we did not remove the IAP sensor, we just removed hose-check, we removed connector-check, we then installed the atmo into the IAP harness w/hose and let the atmo code who cares. This tells us if the IAP was the culprit.
Beats me?
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time