OK. I am new here and have been asking a bunch of questions about pipes, Power Commander's, block off plates, air filters, and ignition retarders.

Here is a link to Brock's new titanium pipe that I am going to get:

http://prostores2.carrierzone.com/servlet/brockracing/-strse-2604/ZX14-%2806-dsh-09%29-CT-SERIES%E2%84%A2/Detail

Brock's has a Power Commander V already set up with the downloaded map for this pipe, as well mapping to address the following additional mods which were important to me:

1-Block off plates (to remove the air pump and associated plumbing into the air box)
2-Aftermarket air filter to increase flow (I found out I should just leave the stock filter in there)
3-Some type of ignition retarder (which I also found out is of no use unless the engine is extensively modified)
4-Decel or "pop" eliminator to reduce or eliminate the exhaust popping when the throttle is cut/shut off

Well, out of the above four mods that I have addressed, Brock's says that their pipe/Power Commander kits already have plugs to block the air pump tubes at their connection point with the airbox. Brock's says that I can either use their plug kit for the air pump hose, or I can use the block off plates, remove the air pump and hoses, and plug the airbox. Either way, it's the same result, so I'll choose to remove the entire air pump and use the block off plates. Brock's claims that a BMC street air filter or any other street air filter offers no advantages over a stock air filter. (You guys have already told me that.) Brock's advised that on a stock engine (mine being stock because a pipe and Power Commander does not constitute a modified engine) an ignition advancer/retarder is of no benefit. Brock's did say that their Timing Retard/Decel Pop Eliminator would make for a smoother on-off-on throttle transition and reduce or completely eliminate an deceleration popping. Here is a link to this nifty little device, which will require the secondary flies to be removed:

http://prostores2.carrierzone.com/servlet/brockracing/-strse-2153/Timing-Retard-Eliminator-ZX-dsh-14/Detail

Be careful to order the correct one, as Brock's also sells a Timing Retard Eliminator, which is not the same thing.

And last, but not least, Brock's has a map with this above combination already downloaded, so I can get this pipe, use their Power Commander V, use the block off plates and plug the airbox, add the Timing Retard/Decel Pop Eliminator (here is the part number - TRE-006A-IVAN), and I can skip the ignition retarder and aftermarket airbox. Ah, at last. I'm done doing my research. Now to pay for the stuff.......

Great choice going with the CT. I'd get the CT meg, myself. It's gotta be a little lighter and I just love the look of a shorty on the 14. Only drawback I can think of is you might touch your boot sole to a shorty once in a while.

1-Block off plates (to remove the air pump and associated plumbing into the air box) The tube going up the frame for the fresh air will need to be plugged up. The other parts you are removing can be removed as one unit. Pull the hose out of the ram section of the frame. Keep the stock plates on the hoses so you create less work. Once the the plates float on the hoses, un-clip the air switching valve, slide the unit out as one "Y" section, lift reed cages out, install the close off plates [gaskets come with it?]; you are done.

2-Aftermarket air filter to increase flow (I found out I should just leave the stock filter in there) The filter might be dirty with how many miles? This a/c access cover is on the left side of the bike you sitting on the seat as reference; located on the front most mid ram section of the frame, call it. Once you pull the filter, make sure nothing drops on the post-ram side. It should be spotlessly clean you suck in nothing but air. Pre-ram is a leaf catcher, plus sucks in fliesanshit too. Do yourself a favor, buy a new filter. Razor off the plastic tabs they melted over to keep the steel screen in place. The filter still has it's integrity, don't worry. This will make the bike breath faster but ever so slight. Enough of a change, you can feel the smoother bike under you. You would think it's the pipe and PC, but would be wrong. Right off, you can test this as a pre-runner for smoothing. Pull the old steel plate off now, then take it for a ride. You will see what you do playing with air flow in the most subtle way. Messing around with exhaust combination is a huge air play. Some may not admit they rather run stock.

3-Some type of ignition retarder (which I also found out is of no use unless the engine is extensively modified) Correct. This is going way over the top with a stock bike. Changes like ignition are more for exotic fuels and air pump enhancers like turbo charging. Most are finding out, street wise, 4 extra degrees run pretty much smooth either way. Engine knock will occur more often you run regular gas with too much advance like 4° no subthrottles in place.

4-Decel or "pop" eliminator to reduce or eliminate the exhaust popping when the throttle is cut/shut off OK, we are now into the ECU cutting to ground, causing a code. Soft is when you close throttle, less gas is entering for a split of a second. There is only one other direction and that is set the hard code or turn off the decel-pop [she goes hard = codes]. Ask yourself this. Do I care about lost mileage. Because if you think about it, the decel no longer saves gas on lift. You now drink on lift. Again, you will cause no engine damage, nature meets hot to cold air is shut off the pop corn machine, think. Think again; you will have a map that is drinking slightly wet: More lost mileage, potentially speaking.

With this unit, you code the bike. When they say retard, it means the ignition follows the same degrees, but programmed faster as in the, 'hard cut.' This makes the bike have a smooth tingle. Stock has a smooth tone. Say we use the tingle smooth as the hard set, tone as stock softer and smoother.

Fast ignition presents the better throttle response. The soft tone has a luxury touch that is more linear or fluid. Tingle is a rapid twitch some riders rather not have. They like the smoother sensation of the tone. Say we had the handle bar switch option to run street, rain, or race setting kind of toggling. Well, this is pretty much what is happening; in a round about way.

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This guy can code two ways. Have you researched enough to know which one does what? If you have flies in, that is one tune of the tre. Another way is how you set your mod. Up to this point, you are looking good. If you de-pop, I just don't know if the plate, PC [map], and pipe will eliminate the pop you stay out of the limp mode. You get to keep your gear indicator [if you think you need on] and the safety switch is off if "N" appears stead. You tap the starter in gear with side stand down she goes!

I shoulDent laugh