Does anyone have a good set of guidlines for prepping the big girl for the winter months? I think I have the basics, but I'm the master of missing that one thing. (Whatever it may be!)

Its a tad premature for the midwest, but I'm off for another knee surgery in a couple of weeks. This one is pretty involved and I'll be down for a while post op. I'm gonna squeeze in a couple of good days then put her into hibernation. Any help is much appreciated!

On the last day of your ride, prep the bike for storage so you have everything out.
1. Top off tires to 70psi.
2. Change oil and filter. Start and top off.
3. Change radiator water with a 50/50 mix. Hand [purge] squeeze all the radiator hoses as you top off the coolant.
4. Remove battery and trickle charge every 15 days or keep the charger on that keeps the battery stable over 13v.
5. Run sta-bullshit in the gas. Run some the day of your last ride. Top off the gas tank. Add more sta-bile.
6. Wipe ATF on any chrome bolts or hardware that you want to keep looking fresh.
7. Keep bike dry and open. Keep an eye on rats nest droppings. Anything looking dirty or has a trail of debris.
8. Remove/replace levers; to grease pivot swing areas. Same goes for foot peg rider/passenger pegs. That or spray lube.
9. Wash/wax bike. This gives your eyes/hands, the once over for loose parts, cracks, eye catches the cleaning.
10. Grab a bunch of T-handles, that or assorted sockets and screwdrivers. Start from the bottom fork hardware on up to the top. Over the panels. Down to the back brake carrier. Catch all the hardware you can reach.

Optional moves?

Hey, Ogre, don't forget to put 28 more PSI in your tires than recommended.

Here is all I do, and been doing for 40 years....

1) ride to the gas station, pour in correct amount of Sta-bil for gas tank size, and fill it up just above the slosh grate. That will keep the tank from condensing moisture over the winter.

2) ride home.

3) Change the oil, oil filter, air filter (or wash/oil in my case)

4) Change the antifreeze if needed. Depends on what you use. I use Engine Ice and change it every winter.

5) put it up on the centerstand (if you have) and block the front wheel off the ground, or use front and rear lifts.

6) decrease tire pressure to (for ZX14) 30 PSI, front and rear.

7) clean and wax the chain.

8) connect the battery to a float charger, example: Battery Tender Plus

9) cover it with a clean linen cloth (assuming its indoors like a garage) that will breath.

Hub mentions checking all the bolts, nuts, etc, which is not a bad idea. I don't do that until I pull it off the charger in the Spring (about a month before riding season). And I don't wax mine for winterization, I just wash it before riding to the gas station.

Good idea. Wash and ride. That dries out the bike via moving air and the heat off the engine. Then, it's an easy wipe down. I'd have fresh gas in a lawnmower kind of extra can around. This way, I can top off to the fill ring, have less wall exposed to the elements. Drain the rest of the gas in the car.

As far as tire pressure goes, I'll take the argument that the tire remains firm at a V type of bubble, rather than less air, the tire sits on a fatter foot print and say you do not have a stand. Say you have the bike to the side stand all wrinkled on the edge more, the bike sits upright more being flatter. The months down the road is forget the bike. At 30 psi, it runs down to say in the mid 20's, for argument sake. At the higher pressure, by the time to check tires, you'll be at 42/42 is ski roo a low tire pressure setting, especially when bikes had center stands way back when. That was the idea @ 70 psi = No stand.

The tire thing....WINTER=COLD.Cold=loss of flexibilty.Loss of flexibilty=cracking in the carcass(at 70 psi).70 lbs of pressure=ruined tire in Spring(stress cracking from overpressurizing in COLD temp)...over pressurized and waiting for the right road irregularity to go BOOM!(at normal pressure)Just my 2 cents.I've yet to see any tire mfg suggest a 40 over storage pressure OR temporary pressure.Like asking for a catastrophic condition up ahead.Put some flat wood pieces under that tire,so the moisture won't get to the tread...yer good to go.

Hub...where do you get this stuff at?

The 'new' tires are quite happy sitting at normal pressure for several cold months.If you're concerned about tread 'shaping' from sitting in one spot...go out and MOVE yer baby a foot or so every so often.Lowering the pressure is going to encourage flatspotting on the tread.(assuming you're not lifting the tires off the ground)Won't harm them a bit however to store at normal recommended pressure.Never hurt mine anyway.Overinflation whether driving or storing is askin for a disaster down the road.Like Hub said...the temp difference is gonna automatically cause the psi to drop(a tad).So lowering ahead of time or whatever is IMO a waste and not necessary...and it gets friggin COLD here...15,20 degrees in the garage.A Fall pressure of 40 psi will be about 30 something psi in the dead of Winter.

And I'm not discounting anyone's deal here.Do as you see fit.Afterall...YOU will be riding your bike...not me.You guys with center stands..whether factory or aftermarket...you've got the best deal goin when it comes to easing the stress on your tires in storage .

OGRE....DO NOT FILL YOUR TIRES TO 70 PSI!!!!!!EVER!!!!Unless you like Emergency rooms and Glass eyes There..now I AM discounting someone else's advice.(I just want you to have a new,happy riding season when you return in the Spring) .

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/12/2011 @ 3:28 PM *

What do you mean, 'gethisuff?' I get this stuff out of my yerngininckers, yeah, I bend over and asks the secret hole... Get this... Who is thinking out of the crate? You hand me a bike out of the crate we go roller skating. Why don't you find some thread about mileage and here I am @ 42.9 mpg [if my math was right], I'm pounding up those tires to 60 psi.

So, we take the physics, use that quote, 'for every square inch of pounds you pound on the ground,' tell me how many 1000's of square in did that tire take on the pounding you hit a severe bump and did that tire go all wickisswhackiss? No, of course it did dent. All I did was suckiss you into that pounding you are getting right now.

Peet Says Here!
BYO

Hey, blue? Year too easy! ASS I use IS your words against you in a roundtable peteseasays YOU!

aRe we the entertainment or WOT, Grn? Get BigW to fall off his monitor again!

"Top off tires to 70psi"."I'm pounding up those tires to 60 psi".....Well...which IS it?Hub...you didn't stop taking your Medication again,did you?I'm waiting(but not holding my breath)....show me a reliable tire mfg that advocates 70 PSI on a Motorcycle Sportbike tire that's going to sit for however long...Or even...at all.Show me ONE.Just one. You've never done that....why tell others to do something as dangerous and nonsensical as this.You ride in California...."Winter" is like...what...where YOU live...50 degrees outside 'maybe'....rarely.And you're trying to tell someone else how to prep his tires for "Winter"?I used to live there....there IS no Winterizing truth be told.It's ride all year...even if it's in the rain at times.Unless ya live in the mountains or somethin.In all the things I've heard you say on this forum for 'advice'...THIS has got to be the most cockamaymee thing you've EVER said!!!!Hubbish or not 70 psi....sheesh .

"Say you have the bike to the side stand all wrinkled on the edge more",.....ever SEE a properly inflated Motorcycle tire displaying 'wrinkles'?Fy%$ bro! I'd like to see you fill your tires to 70 psi.While I'm standing behind a brick blast wall!!!!...dialing 911

The tire MIGHT survive 70 psi....but come time to ride it...it'll NEVER perform right again.Period.If by some unfortunate circumstance you want to return the tire for "defects in workmanship" or something...when they ask ya.."what pressure were you using"...yer gonna tell em.."70 psi Sirs when I had it stored for Winter".Whattaya think they're gonna say?They're gonna gonna say..."SIR...you are too stupid to be riding a Motorcycle.Not only will we NOT replace your tire,but we COMMAND you...get our tires OFF your bike immediately.We don't want our name being associated with a lame brain like you...you don't have any friends there putting 70 psi in our tires do ya?"

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/13/2011 @ 2:24 AM *

Here is what I do.... Yes, I am anal and keep my bike in an attached garage that is heated.
Change oil
Lube chain
Check anti freeze and brake/clutch fluid( I change mine every other season religiously)
Top off tank and Stabil fuel
Clean, wax, polish
Let some air out of the tires then put bike up on stands (or on something so they are not directly on the cement IE- plywood, cardboard, carpet.If they are not on stands move the bike once in a while to avoid flat spots)
Plug in battery tender

Start once in a while and let come up to temperature

Clean chain then lube it... Saw somewhere about using WD40 to clean it once it's warm and it works really well. You just have to make sure that you do not overspray onto your tires.... That could suck!

WD-40 is a bad move. It is a fish oil? Chain lube is from crude oil. WD is too thin will evap. I'm going to suck some more people in they don't figure this out.

Grn, I am not saying to ride with 70 psi. I'm saying to store the bike with a high pressure. I am in the cheap seats I have no center stand, nor will I use a stand to prop the tires off the ground. I will have a minimum flat spot on my patch spot where as if I use less pressure/42 OEM pressure/press your forehead, I could of had a V-8 and now, you have yet to justify that hard slam into the road buckle that takes out your car's front end, but did the tire BLOW? ME!

Hub is right, just can't quite bring it in reality.

WD40 is, and this is the master machinist talking, an abrasive water-absorbing penetrating cleaner. It will loosen rust, and loosen stuck things.

WD40 is NOT a lubricant.

And when the aerosol that delivers the components evaporates, it leaves grit behind. Which will destroy the o-rings in modern chains.

Old days, we used WD40 because we didn't have o-ring chains, and it worked fine for cleaning. But never for lubricating.

Clean chain then lube it... Saw somewhere about using WD40 to clean

TO CLEAN, NOT TO LUBE...
I LUBE with chain way or Astroglide, depending upon the application!

Privvy is right. I experimented with the chain on the chopper. I sucked my rider into lubing the chain so I could Ha-Ha-Ha the day away. Thing was dragging on the ground it was so loose like no lube at all. And rust? Like where they found that rock, it is decomposing it was so rusty. I will state one more time... "Ain't my bike." What? Me worry about no one listening to turtle if turtle out the gate is the whack in the pack?

Isn't that guy, Chainway, selling those cloth napkins? Then there is that cute fat lady cooking with Asstrowglide, Dogo bought one?

* Last updated by: Hub on 11/13/2011 @ 10:31 AM *

Oh yeah, 1 more thing

Thank you for contacting WD-40 Company with regards to using WD-40 on o-rings. WD-40 is a multi-purpose light lubricating oil, which will displace water and moisture from the chain. The "WD" stands for water displacement and acts as a rust preventative on any metal surface. WD-40 will not dry out the rubber o-rings. We have found no visible effects on the surface of rubber and o-rings. Certain types of rubber will swell under prolonged immersion in WD-40 (this refers to long soaking and not just a spray).

WD-40 is also a cleaner, which will remove grime, dirt, tape, bumper stickers and oil. It is possible that if there is a special lubricant in the o-rings, WD-40 could act as a cleaner and remove that oil. The special lubricant would be replaced with WD-40. We are sure there are superior heavy-duty chain lubes on the market. There are several people who recommend using WD-40 on their chains. Perhaps some experimenting with WD-40, as a water remover and rust preventative followed by a heavier chain lube would fit your needs. The bottom line is WD-40 will not harm your o-rings, but it could remove a lubricant that was previously applied to the chain.

We recommend you only spray the area near the wheels, moving parts and other areas you want to clean off. We do not recommend spraying on the manifold or exhaust pipes. Please never spray WD-40 on a hot bike.
Thank you again for contacting WD-40 Company. Please let us know if we may be of further assistance.
Best regards,
Eva Zabowski
WD-40 Customer Service

* Last updated by: seno on 11/13/2011 @ 10:30 AM *

O-ringa-Ringa!Dr. Chainway, red courtesy phone! Dr. Chainway, red courtesy phone, please!

LOL and you would listen to a customer service response? I mean, seriously......

Get er straight Hubster...I never said....70 psi TO RIDE with.
"Grn, I am not saying to ride with 70 psi. I'm saying to store the bike with a high pressure.I will have a minimum flat spot on my patch spot"
"70 psi Sirs when I had it STORED for Winter".Where did I say...ride with 70psi?I know what yer sayin.I know how to repeat a quote my man.

"All I did was suckiss you into that pounding you are getting right now".

And WOT pounding might THAT be?...I'm not the one saying "fill your tires to 70PSI".And you've YET to link me to a tire mfg that says..."During Winter storage,fill tires to 70 PSI"...or 60,or 50. This isn't like tightening a well nut on yer fairing.Advising some one to fill to 70 on a high performance Motorcycle is ludicrous."just for storage"....sheesh.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/13/2011 @ 12:36 PM *

Were talking about cleaning a motorcycle chain.... Why should I not trust a customer service rep? I guess the training they gave them was more like: lie to the customers so they buy our product! Ya at $4.00 a can they are making a killing! Why should I not trust the article I read in a motorcycle magazine suggesting to use WD40 as a cleaner? Oh yeah, I know why.... Because of the 1,000 of WD40 adds I see in motorcycle magazines. I usually agree with your point of view but as far as this goes I think you send me some of whatever you have been smoking, cause it must be some really good shit.... For the record I do agree as far as the judged by 12 instead if carried by 6, and if I never mentioned it before I work as an armorer and a big collector of modern military black guns.

The big deal with this WD40 stuff....from what I gleaned from many posts about it here and on other forums...is.....DOES IT PULL THE LINK LUBE OUT OF THE ROLLERS ON AN X or O ring chain?.It will pull moisture from any surface around there.

The thing is...the rep said....."WD-40 is also a cleaner, which will remove grime, dirt, tape, bumper stickers and oil. It is possible that if there is a special lubricant in the o-rings, WD-40 could act as a cleaner and remove that oil. The special lubricant would be replaced with WD-40. We are sure there are superior heavy-duty chain lubes on the market. There are several people who recommend using WD-40 on their chains. Perhaps some experimenting with WD-40, as a water remover and rust preventative followed by a heavier chain lube would fit your needs. The bottom line is WD-40 will not harm your o-rings, but it could remove a lubricant that was previously applied to the chain".

That statement ought to confirm to anyone that he is advising anyone using it for a chain lube to probably NOT use it for that particular application.He said...it will NOT harm O-rings.But for cleaning...it's probably fine.I personally stopped using these cleaners and such.Kerosine worked VERY WELL at removing any gunk on the chain.Then a good wipe down,and reapplication of Chain Wax(maxima).The chain MUST be dry however to get the 'no'fling' results they mention on the can though.I found that out the ugly way.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/14/2011 @ 1:42 AM *

Kerosene is a) cheap, b) cuts grease and grime fast, c) doesn't hurt o-rings or much else. Thats all I need to make it my first choice.

Even if I pulled the chain off and soaked it to clean it, I'd use kerosene.

Just don't ask for kerosene in France, they will think you asking for jet fuel.

OK let me explain this in plain english the best way I can. Use whatever the fuck you want & I will do the same... Thanks and have a great day!! Done with this thread-)

Yo Seno...I'm with ya on this...I contacted the wd40 guys last year....got the same e-mail back.I trust em.I don't use wd40 on my chains,but for cleaning...it'd probably be fine.I wouldn't leave it sitting on my chain though...like they said...follow up with a good lubricant designed for chains.The main thing...it won't harm O-Rings.I believe em.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/14/2011 @ 4:22 PM *