I'm powder coating an extra set of wheels I have for my 14 and because of the heat the process takes I have to remove the bearings and replace with new bearings. I had no problem stripping the rear wheel. I have used a race removal punch, with a fresh square edge, and cannot get enough of the opposite side inner race to push it out. How do I remove the bearings?

The center collar can move enough to get the one bearing started. Other than buying a bearing remover, you need a smaller punch? Yes, square the tip so it does not roll off the inner bearing. Take the larger punch and push the collar to the side.

I am a seasoned mechanic. The inner collar does not move with that 12 inch 1/2 moon punch inserted to the opposite side inner race. I've had it inserted until it stops on the race, and pushed hard to force it.I suspect by what you are telling me and what I have read that the bearings have been pushed in so as not to allow the inner collar any play. Is there a tool that will grip the id of the collar and let me push or pull it?

Yes there is this dowel call it, shaved down some so it slips into the center collar. There is a slot in the middle and the dowel does not slide all the way being machined to stop outside the collar. Then a long punch with a taper at the end, this expands into the slot that is thru the center bearing race. You enter the long drift down into the center collar of the bearing, where this will force the bearing to move you start banging out that way.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/6/2013 @ 2:27 PM *

Where can I get the tool?

revzilla.com, motionpro.com

Thanks HUB,
I spent some time looking around. My 14 is the only bike I intend on working on and was just gonna buy the 25mm collet, and long wedge. Tried Amazon, and Whala, all for less than $60 shipped. I did use $11 rewards points. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GZPDLA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I still have the set of wheels I am riding on to do, and I can imagine what the local Kawasaki dealer would have charged.

Hub

I did make it to the Texas Mile this last weekend. I did not participate. I did find some fine bikes there! One youngster, I'll just call him K, was on a normally aspirated, I can't guarantee no Nitrous, zx14. His best was 198mph! His Father is one hell of an authority! He showed me step by step pictures of them "degreeing the cams. He was on an H1 when I was in 8th grade!

I've been riding this bike about 3,000/month. The clock is right at 22,000 miles. I bought it early in August with < 14,000 miles. I bought extra wheels on eBay, for the purpose of having a set ready to install.

This is my problem

The chain is tightened for just enough of one revolution, that it is impossible to adjust. Can I stretch part of the chain? I've changed cush drives, sprockets, and wheels! I have changed sprockets on cush drives. It makes no difference. If it were the drive sprocket/shaft it would repeat 18/41 times. I think it is the chain. What do you advise on a set?

The bike came with a DID gold chain,

Both rear wheels have the original 41 tooth sprocket.

May the chain be elongated? No matter what combination I make, the results are the same.

I did install new bearings in freshly powder coated wheels. The Dunlap on the front had chords showing, so I spent last Wednesday performing all of this for my trip to "the mile". I did install and balance Michelin Pilot Road 3's, front and rear.

Not sure what you're getting at re: chain, but no, you cannot stretch any part of it. If it it tight at one spot and inordinately loose at another, it probably needs to be replaced. Modern O-ring chains do not stretch. At some point, some or all of the O-rings harden, break or otherwise lose their ability to seal lube inside the rollers and at that point the inner lube gets squeezed out and rapid wear ensues.

Txn,

Look at that chain photo. Set your eyes in the middle of the two middle link plates. Look straight up. Now, look at the hook caused by the thrust side. Look at the coast side of the one tooth. Look at how you have the air gap showing on the pull back in the other pic. See how the chain pins wear so that pull extends away from the sprocket teeth?

There are two examples.
1. As lame and as simple as friction can be shown, rub both hands together. Ask yourself, which hand stayed cool?
2. Second example is, look at the link roller to tooth groove. Which did not wear out as if saying, which part stayed cool so as no wear happened?

You can't. Wear 1 equals out wear 2 in the friction dept. So, ask yourself if they equally wore out, you'd lay a new part over an old part? No. You change new with new.

Here is the next example.
a. We set a wear pattern from day one out the dealer floor. This causes a single even wear pattern: not to be disturbed.
b. The second part is if you change tires for the first time, do not key in the cam sprocket to chain wear, as if you pulled the wheel, did not mark the tooth to link wear pattern, you now cause a new wear pattern...
c. ... High spots in the chain sprockets I think?... You do not key back in the link to tooth. I think the chain's pins receive the same go-around-wear, but the teeth on the sprocket, they receive the thrust-wear-pattern not as in proportion to the pin's, but you moved the sprocket location for argument sake, from 12 to 6 o'clock. This sprocket is not fixed perfectly lined up. So that sprocket carrier rubber is going to move with the thrust and cause a wear @ 12, 12 being how the sprocket was bolted up and locked higher from center. You install the carrier or say you never removed the carrier, it still says, I am no longer lined up with my original position from the dealer's drive.
d. Dealer may neglect the chain adjust, may have it too tight when it is adjusted. So the trick here along with the keying-in is to run a loose chain upon break-in of the new sprockets and chain.
e. So if book says between 1.3 ~ 1.5" slack, you run 1.8" slop for break-in.
f. After chain break-in: The tighter the chain, the less missed shifts, and too, a cleaner, more exacting shift.

Thanks Dannom, thanks HUB,

I have a 17/41 sprocket combination, and RK 530GXW-116 link chain kit on order. What will be considered a good break in on a new chain kit? You can bet the chain will be keyed from now on!

HUB, It will take 3.63 revolutions of a 41 tooth sprocket to make one round of a 116 link chain. So, wouldn't every roller meet every tooth one time every 116 x 3.63, (~ 328) revolutions of the chain? I will index the chain/sprocket from now on!

I want to share a picture of a friend that was only 2 MPH away from 200 MPH, this last weekend, October 26, 2013. The bike is a normally aspirated, non-nitrous, zx14.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/ndgnustxn/IMG_1095.JPG

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/ndgnustxn/040.JPG

Txn,

Think of it like the cam timing chain. No matter how many times the chain walks over the next gear tooth, the cams are always timed in. So if you move a tooth either way, you'll tag valves. Think of it as if the teeth are always timed to the chain, no new wear pattern to begin.

Your chain [to me] looks way too dry. That excessive pull away from the teeth shows excessive wear. I could not see any air gap on my trade-in. Yes, up and down were the coast/drive sides being a bit loose, buthereyesay... She is due for fresh greasesqueeze.