I took my bike out yesterday to check out an abs emergency stop before I needed it. And it doesnt feel like abs is working at all. Should I take it to the dealer?

It shouldn't feel like it is working, but not exactly sure what kinda feel you are looking for. Did the wheels lock up? It's probably working but you can for your own piece of mind. It won't be as intrusive as feeling the pulse like your car brake pedal.

I feel nothing and I had both front and back lock up in the rain yesterday.

The 2012 does not have abs....you have the SE edition?...no abs my man...sorry.Hope they didn't charge you for abs...oh,and

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/5/2013 @ 9:14 AM *

I have a picture. How do I post it?

* Last updated by: Oldguyonazx14r on 11/5/2013 @ 9:34 AM *

How to tell you have ABS on the second gen (R):

1. Front fender. It will say ABSkid, something like that? The tone wheels on the rims show it 'should be' a bike of either assist, meaning, no swapping of parts between generations (which can be done).

2. Battery housing. Take a flashlight and look past the battery. If it's empty = No ABS, but accel control only.

3. Brake [neck] tubes. Look down the right side of the steering neck. There are two tubes out from the battery/ABS housing; over the top of the frame; down the right side of the neck = ABS w/accel control.

Should look like this

Isn't this abs?

As others have stated there will be markings on the fender dictating ABS models. In addition there should be an ABS led on the dash when you crank the bike. The pic you took shows the speed sensor for the KTAC aka traction control

Okay all all is clear now.
Thanks

INput other words, the tone wheels are used for both ABS, tire lighting, and wheelie control.

But I don't want wheelie control.. hahaha !!!

Unplug either tone wheel sensor... Mode switch diss!

"Unplug either tone wheel sensor... Mode switch diss!"

Ahh I like it !!!

If you unplug a sensor the bike will enter low power mode as a safety function on abs version.

Mine does wheelies all over the place. I ride it on traction control off though.

* Last updated by: Towball on 11/5/2013 @ 11:17 PM *

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/6/2013 @ 8:19 AM *

Tone wheel input has no idea what speed the rear wheel is moving at. Now, unplug the speed sensor. You may lose a speedo, but who cares about that or Low power mode. You can stand the bike up all day long, who cares about intervention.

* Last updated by: Hub on 11/6/2013 @ 9:24 AM *

And that means no ABS either.

Tow's right...you can't just 'unplug'the KTRC sensor.The ECU will compensate by lowering the power output.Not that it won't wheelie...but it won't perform as it would with all systems go.Even turning off the KTRC does NOT fully disable the safety feature programmed into the ECU.It has to be 'flashed' out.

"Tone wheel input has no idea what speed the rear wheel is moving at"...yes...it does.It's factory calculated to intervene under the set parameters.It does know.You know this....and I'm not just talking about 'wheelies'...those guys on the strip discovered it....and they weren't wheelying when they did.

Let me say...anyone can unplug anything they want on their bike....so in essence...you're correct.The desired result however may not be as one wants.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/6/2013 @ 10:03 AM *

You know, and I know, that It knows.

Ya know?

I do believe the intervention factor is ignition related...leaving sensors unplugged MAY....possibly...cause engine damage over time...IDK...I wouldn't unplug anything.Hell...even bypassing the evap system on my bike(at one point)caused the motor to NOT start as it should.This bike isn't that simple to modify in particular areas.

Flashing out the 'safety mode' feature is not the same as unplugging a sensor.Especially one that tracks wheel speed and reacts accordingly.Those guys at Mitsubishi and Kawasaki aint no dummies.Few people even feel or realize the 'safety mode' is operating at certain times on acceleration.With KTRC turned off.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/6/2013 @ 10:44 AM *

Can anyone tell me WHERE the 'outside air temp' sensor is located...and just HOW it calculates a correct temp?On the moving bike in 40 degree weather?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/6/2013 @ 10:52 AM *

It goes something like this... 'We take measures to save the engine so you can run right along, we have no clue you are out in the boonies and far from a dealer, or making a trip around the world, go for it, nothing is going to happen down the road we default out of FULL is like saying we are going to run in FULL so there is damage ahead?' HA no, I don't think so. Running a few degrees in retard should not cook the engine. That's watt the tre does is eliminates an advance stage. Analog means many = 10-40-55 degrees. Digital means 1. So one is to start (10 degrees) and 55 is full advanced, not linear [with the 40], but the twitchy setting you all oohh and aahh about.

Outside temp sensor is the same sensor the air box has. It has a ball at the bottom or a cast in plastic [thermometer] that sends outside temp to the dash. It sits in the left side forward fairing.

I'm pretty sure its a thermocouple... quite possibly a "K" type.

"Running a few degrees in retard should not"...that's what I mean though about disabling the wheel sensors.Without that input...couldn't it be possible for the ECU to over adjust something?Not that it would...but could it?We know turning it off doesn't totally disable it.And flashing the ECU with parameters that are safe for the motor we know won't harm the engine...even with the KTRC off and flashed to remove the safety mode.But simply unplugging one...or both...do we really know how the ECU is going to try and compensate running with a 'faulty sensor'...I guess it probably will do as you say...stay in a particular adjustment..and be alright.I wouldn't want to find out really....it might do just fine....but IDK.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/6/2013 @ 9:16 PM *