Ive just fitted 1" risers, as you can see they are not sitting down correctly, has anyone else come across this, do I need to drop forks down?

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 1/27/2019 @ 5:51 AM *

Some risers are not made to accommodate slipping the tubes up to quicken steering and need to be machined out to clear the tube tops.

If I do that I will lose location step at the top for the handlebar? What would the stock height of the forks be in the clamps anyone so I can check?

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 1/27/2019 @ 8:19 AM *

Raising or lowering the forks will change the geometry some. Lowering is more a no-no; if you want to stay away from said wobbles. The forks have a set measure when being assembled onto the triples. However you have a few options:

1. Looking at the bottom of the steering stem, note there is an ever so straight cut before the taper begins farther down the tube. The taper is for weight saving so you can up the fork right where the taper begins under the triple and have more length past the top crown.
2. You can look around the gap and see who is in the way and why it won't drop? I'd sacrifice the cheap aftermarket, rather than replace the OEM that costs more [say], and mod the aftmk instead. Grind, saw, drill, file, whatever it takes to drop the gap.
3. Or, the afta part is not going to go anywhere, being it is over the fork enough so it is not going to move if you have the same bolt position of the OEM. Say the bolts loosen up. Then you need to flush said part over said part. That or loc-tite the bolts.

I'm gonna ask a maybe dumb question...but do you have the riser on the right way?It will be marked 'L' and 'R'.Also,those bolts.Are they bottoming on there?(where the thread stops and the shank begins)As it is right now?Looks to me like the shank has reached it's limit there.I you'll need a bit longer bolts that are threaded longer on there.I have those risers on mine.I takes a longer threaded bolt.The stock bolts will not work.Also,it may be you have those upside down?With the flanged part on the top.The flange goes on the bottom.That gap looks about as thick as the flange.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/27/2019 @ 8:52 AM *

Does the step or flange go on the bottom? would that not still leave a gap? all the way around?

Update:
here is a picture-
Please note have the risers been marked wrong ??
Curve on fuel tank side as they should be, cant see how they could work if I swapped them because "step" would be on the bottom.

forks protrude 27mm above yokes.
internal depth of riser 21mm
hence not sitting flush!!

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 1/27/2019 @ 12:07 PM *

Okay...I see that.Mine had a flat top and bottom.But did have the smaller diameter hole on the 'top' side,where the polished cap went on over the adjustment screw.Who made those?

I see that bottom pic is showing 'L' on there.K-14-L.Let me say,on the genmars,That flanged part goes up.Yes.It looks like you have it on there correct.BUT...you have the left on the right fork.Does the riser go all the way down without the bolts?As I said,that top pic looks to me like the shank is stopping the bolt from going all the way down.You need ones that have a longer threaded part.But again,will the riser go down flush without the bolt?You MAY need to tap that riser down with a mallet.IDK if it'll slide down on the fork if it's hitting the taper.Probably not.Did you have the frontend lowered?It should drop all the way even with ANY length of bolt actually.but you will need more threads as I said.I think so.I have TWO sets of risers on mine...the genmars,and another 5/8ths set.

But I think I see the riser is slightly higher on the outboard side there.Optical illusion of the pic?It could be canted just a hair.That will stop it from going all the way down.Is it painted(or anodized)inside the sliding edge?

Kinda odd.I'm guessing the 'L' refers to the left side...but it might not.Does the other have an 'R' stamped on there?It should fit...regardless...try tapping it down on there.Pull the bolts and see if it sits okay in there.I can't remember offhand if those came with new longer bolts or not.I think so.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/27/2019 @ 12:30 PM *

"If I do that I will lose location step at the top for the handlebar? What would the stock height of the forks be in the clamps anyone so I can check?"..the forks are fine.Nothing needs to change there.BUT...that part needs to go all the way in.Flush.No gap.Looks like the bolts are too short to me.If they are(the threaded part),it won't tighten any farther.The gap isn't actually related to the bolts at all.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/27/2019 @ 12:34 PM *

Hub is correct.Open that diameter just a smidgen.That won't hurt anything.Your CF plates on there aren't interfering with it are they?

Grn saw it.

looks like....

K-14-L is on the right
K-14-R is on the left

Still might not sit flush, but I'd switch'em

forks protrude 27mm above yokes.

Manual has 21.5mm. reset forks to correct height too.

* Last updated by: piken on 1/27/2019 @ 12:52 PM *

Bolts are plenty long enough, fork height is preventing flush fit,Curved side is supposed to be tank side so swapping left to right would be wrong way, 21.5mm indicates that my forks are too high in yoke, therefore if I go back to stock the risers will fit

* Last updated by: dave350v8 on 1/27/2019 @ 3:08 PM *

IF the forks have been 'raised'(the frontend lowered)it might not seat.I can see that now.Sounds like that's what's happening.All it could be really.The top of the fork cap is hitting the underside of the flange ,right?That makes sense on the gap size.That gap is about what a guy would lower the frontend without going a full inch.Now it makes sense.1/2 inch..somewhere in there.
Looked again.Yep.That's what it is.I'd say FIRST before you loosen any fork bolts,CHECK to see if all the upper and lower bolts are tight.Just to see and make sure that it wasn't simply sliding up on it's own...for the heck of it.Unless of course you know it was lowered.-It'd be odd having both forks moving up the same amount...but ya never know.I know you'll be loosening them...but I'd want to know if the lower fork clamps were tight or not.Just for the hell of it.

I think if you try machining those like Danno said,you may end up having to fully remove that flange.That wouldn't really be a very safe idea.Since it helps to keep the bars lined up and the stress off the bolts.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/27/2019 @ 3:24 PM *

Sit on the bike... Now we know left side and right side if we order parts say.
So bar raiser is L for left side and flip it to make the lettering hidden I believe.
Problem solved.

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/27/2019 @ 7:16 PM *

Set the fork height per the spec in the SM - problem solved and risers will fit correctly

Yeah.@ Hubster.You can't flip it cause the shape won't be right.The curved surface goes aft.If he flips it,the flange will be on the bottom.Dave said this ^

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/27/2019 @ 9:00 PM *

Rudy's correct.The forks have been raised.By the amount in the gap.

Perhaps they're marking them as if standing in FRONT of the bike????

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/27/2019 @ 8:59 PM *

SM spec for the 14R is tube s/b .825 from the top of the upper clamp. When I run a track day I remove the old man risers and drop the clamp so there is an additional 0.50 or 1.35 of the tube above the clamp. Stock bars fit on just fine and turn in is a bit easier/quicker

Thanks guys, yea forks have been raised will put back to stock height, good idea to see if clamps are a bit loose,I've it a few pot holes over here so that could of pushed them up, thanks again everyone for your input

Good call Grn14 bolts were not tight, these risers make a huge difference,thanks everyone