So...
Went to start up the 14 yesterday and it was dead. Apparently I left my bike alarm on all winter

I figure since I have to yank my plastics off, now is a good enough time to put one on and maybe get a better battery. I don't trust this one now that its all but completely dead, marker lights barely come one.

This leads me to the question, where is a good place to pick one up that I can charge the battery with as well as run my cell or something off of it?

tips/tricks?

Sigh, thanks!

* Last updated by: omega2k on 3/12/2015 @ 12:51 PM *

http://smartercharger.com/smarter-process/

It's all about peak 100% charge, not trickle at a lower amp than rated for the battery.

I have a Battery Tender Jr on my ZX, my riding mower, my Kawasaki Mule, my Kubota tractor, and one on each of my 2 boat batteries. Doin' what I can to keep 'em in business

I'm not saying they're the greatest, never done a comparison or read about one, just that they seem to work for me.

I have a Gerbings heat troller that sticks out at the rear corner of the tank, and under the seat. Then I adapted a plug for it so I can run heated gear, or charge my bike. I even use the plug for a radar detector. If you need a pic, let me know. It works really well for me.

I also have a Battery Tender Jr., about $28 on Amazon. You can buy extra pigtails for about $5 on Amazon also. Simple and works great, easy to use.

I am lost, have no clue, nowhere to turn, don't ask, so I am on my own. This is where I get to walk out another theory like a UPSguy thread. I watch the numbers appear and reversengineer them? Listen when I say this: I could not give the correct change back at a 99cents store if you bought one item... so here goes.

12N12A-BS
12v - Is the volt N-eeded.
12a - Is the power to turn a dirt bike/atc/single cylinder over with this sissy amp rate.

12N14A-B-attery [acid] S-upplied.
12v - Are also 6-way post positions left out.
14a - Are for high compression/multi-cylinder push at the starter is the higher amp rate.

12v 12a ~ Using a Jr. rated @ .750ma:
V = 12
I = .75ma
R = 16
P = 9
EEE = 12-12-12 ~ Electricity Evens Everything @ 12.06v or a 100% fully charged 12N12A12 = 100%.

12N14A ~ Using a 1.4 rated charger:
V = 12
I = 1.4ma
R = 8.5
P = 16.8
HubCalc = 13.2v fully charged, or .11v short of 100%

I = 1.5 rated battery charger is my minimum thrown at a 14a rated batt.
V = 12
R = 8.5
P = 16.8
HubC = 14.3v 100% fully charged 12v battery rated @ 14a, or EEE ~ 14A14 = 100%.

Thank guys!

Might want to go with a Shorai..no acid for one thing.About a third of the weight of a stock battery.Attach whatever peripherals to the +/- terminals.Get the Shorai tender.Very nice.Comes with pigtail.Been very happy with mine.No problems.Had these in my 2012,and my 2013...so that's TWO years+so far on this last one.Keep it in 'store' mode during winter(here).Always fires right up.Have a heated gear pigtail and a Detector pigtail attached.Plus the tender pigtail.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/13/2015 @ 9:41 AM *

Battery Tender is how I keep my battery charged.

* Last updated by: Eray on 3/13/2015 @ 2:17 PM *

13.1 is the 100% mark? That's a 1.25a rated battery charger on a 14a batt? The 1.5a charger reads 14a as the 100% readout. So I am missing something you keep bringing in low amp charger values against a 14a battery.

Let me ask this. When you run battery mode on the dash, is the number this side of 14? So isn't the bike's vo/rec following ohm's law in the math [14a] of it?

I can't tell what you're asking, Hub. Are you questioning whether or not the Battery Tender works? They do. As I said, I have 6 of them and my batteries all crank my vehicles when needed, including the boat that sits for many months in between starts ... even more so now that I'm kinda burned out on boating. The big ZX gets most my free time these days

I use a multibank Battery Tender on my 3bikes and car as well. Garage is not heated so I like to keep all batteries at full charge to avoid deep cycle discharge on a start up on really cold days. Especially for the car which is only used on weekends.

Any one of the number of so called "intelligent" battery tenders/chargers will get the job done IMO. Mine's a Halfords branded one I've had for over 10 years and it's still doin' a great job. Why is it people get 2-3 years from a bike battery and think that's good? I had well over 9 years from my SUV batteries and I reckon it was my fault they started to let go anyway as I flattened them quite badly 2 or 3 times. JMO

Exactly Peg. My 2007 ZX10R is still on the original battery because I have always used the Battery Tender on it.

No way am I making this hard if I apply a little price check in isle 2 at a 99cents store. What I'm saying is that if you run the ohm's math, you are short of a full 100% charge vs the math to parts (rated amps) used. And with electricity you have balance at all 4 points.

See, wit the correct reading of a hydrometer floating in the acid level to an across the posts is the same reading if the battery is sealed... Now, the 100% fully charged battery and its volts in question is how strong that power is out the battery. Say I pull the lead wire out and is ready to piss to the other side of the wall I am leaning on. You pull out your battery lead and pick a wall and write TT-able on the other 3 walls. Well, your cranked up set of nuts set at 12.0 is going to piss in the middle of the room and down your leg we count off the seconds.

I'm pissing at a full 12.8v @ 1.5ah and your battery shoots out 12.0v [NOT] fully charged and not at its full potential of 12.6v or the hydrometer number. The ohm's calc does match the parts used saying fully charged in a liquid state of that hy'd floating.

So you drop in the hydrometer and the charger has .750ah = 12.0v in the math fully charged.
So you make contact with a 1.4ah charger and the battery puts out a full 12.6v for a 12N12a.
So you make contact with a 1.5ah charger and those parts set a 12N14a battery to its full 12.8v charge.

So you see, I can by sitting here is to look at the amp rated chargers and see that the battery is:
.750ar = 12.0v - NG for a 12N12a
1.4ah = 12.6v - Pass for a 12N12a
1.5ah = 12.8v - Pass for a 12N14a
So you see, I can by touching my ohm meter to the posts I see a static 12.8v of a fully charged battery per Father of the TT proves it out; I do not make the rules.

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM135735_E9/Output/images/OMM135735_E979.jpg

I'm going to look at specific gravity as the last bar on that hy'd (hi D) is 14.7 is -water level- = -Ground-.
I am going to look at the +acid+ as the mix of the chemical reaction to +100%- inside the batt.
I'm back to looking at the whole package of one hundred percent is in a plus to minus proportion to the way to measure the atom- to +atom mix +[or-the+chemical-reaction+]- and if your charger to ohm's does not meet the hy'd drop from 14.7 is ground and now look at 12v pushed at it as you cooked out the acid and blended it like shook the ------ or kept mixing/heating/blending/boiling/distilling/an impurity into the crystal clear water, the liquids plus+ed with a mi-nus until they evened out.

Your too low am amp boil/cook/keep the moli moving, but you are at a +++100%- is how you are thinking you have a fully charged battery? Not by Ohm's you don't. No by the hy'Don't you don't, and not by the ohm meter across the +/- battery posts. So is Ohm wrong? I'm only after a reality check of his math.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/14/2015 @ 8:30 PM *

Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points is directly proportional to the potential difference across the two points. Introducing the constant of proportionality, the resistance, one arrives at the usual mathematical equation that describes this relationship: I = V / R

... where I is the current through the conductor in units of amperes, V is the potential difference measured across the conductor in units of volts, and R is the resistance of the conductor in units of ohms. More specifically, Ohm's law states that the R in this relation is constant, independent of the current.

Batter E = I know my bike uses a 12v battery.
Amps I = Know is the battery being 14a.
Park P = I have my parking light on only.
Bottom R = I pull that bulb out of the socket, it is going to arc and suck out .7 worth of lost amps times 2 of the on/off and now the math gets complicated.

At the key fob there is .7ma being turned on you don't see the +moli slam hard into ground- under the key fob anshit. 7 more milli's are being eaten up on the + to - each time the mechanical inside the charger is charging the battery is don't get me started on wave lengths.

If I put a resistor in between the bulb+ and the socket+ I'd throw a softer less arcing connection and less bulb glowing when connected to ground-

That's all I'm doing is messing with resistors at the socket to bulb to watt, and now I look at that bulb as a stove setting on the cooking of water. I'm going to reach boil via resistor in between the bulb's brightness and pick a resistance?

That stove setting is my waiting for the water to boil.
1.2 hours to formula and you have this much time on the charger pull it off the 14a.
1.4 hours to formula and you have this much time on the 12a and it charged it sooner is all pull it off.
1.5 hours to see the bulb glow brighter, the water boil sooner, the 12 or 14v batt cook faster theory.

The 10a microwave me battery boil switch on the (optional) charger(s).
Short (pun) of buckling the plates plug me in plug me in. And that boil of the plated means, shake up the champagne bottle and pop the cork look at the bubbles 10a. But if in the trickle, look at the bubbles hang in one spot [in the champagne glass] and continue to feed bubbles real tiny out of the mats in the battery. Imagine the rush of bubbles out of the matting and it separates kind of boil beware!
Short of bringing up the generic move is to spike the battery to see if it can hold a charge while you breakdown the white crustizzfuzzy no flow in the way shitanshit via 10amps thrown at it [in the generic].
Short of saying, are you not doing the same thing in the mini is a 1.5 thrown at it like a 10a switch on the charger?
Short of that option not on a trickle, isn't that the 2nd move of bringing a battery back to life is the generic full flame under the water cough fee'zzzzzz ready... Pay the cash sheer.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/15/2015 @ 10:11 AM *