Anyone finding 290 horse with spray?
If so let the education begin!!!
Searching for set up ideas and suggestions on literature. Oh, let's also add another ingredient, No PC5. Just an ecu that talks to the bike!!!!

Post up if you have a suggestion.

Hope everyone is enjoying the winter and their winter off the bike projects.
W

I've done the math earlier this summer, you're gonna need larger injectors.

Stiffer valve springs, last thing we want is to risk a floater. Cams maybe.

Or a second fuel rail for extra injectors, can C control a second set through the ECU?

A wet kit is going to probably be a must dude no matter how you look at it, again better safe than sorry.

I have heard of people running a second ECU in their machines to operate the second set of fuel injectors.

You're gonna want some shorties inside that air box too, but I've got a feeling you may have recently done that.

Now we're talking major risk for engine damage, nitrous just lost its dollar per horse value, IMO. Go turbo if you want three hundred horse dude. 300hp of forced induction will always be faster than 300hp on nitrous. Hundo shot of nitrous on tap would be sic though!

* Last updated by: Cornelius on 12/10/2013 @ 6:35 AM *

I have a whole list of parts and products I suggest using in your project. I spent a lot of time over the summer studying, designing and researching my own system which I believe to be far superior to almost anything off the shelf. I was only looking into a 50 shot, but I do believe the bulk of it can be translated into your 100shot.

* Last updated by: Cornelius on 12/10/2013 @ 6:23 AM *

Crap. Sorry Wolf, I need to retract my statements about a second fuel rail. I had turbos on the brain this morning. A second fuel rail is totally unessicary. You have two options here.
1. Larger fuel injectors and control the added fuel through the ECU. This method will require having C completely remapping all the fuel maps for the lager injectors.
2. Wet kit. With a little trial and error on the dyno she will always meter and mix the correct amount of required extra fuel every time you hit boost! Personally this is the best direction for that big shot, as you can never shoot nos without fuel at the sometime, unlike controlling through the ECU if you forget to turn on the corect map you're toast. I have total faith in C's work but this will prevent any chance of an operator error.

* Last updated by: Cornelius on 12/10/2013 @ 8:00 AM *

Thank you for the precise breakdown. Horse power to dollar ratio is a priority. In addition, Blowing up my ride with me on it is a secondary consideration too.

If the turbo route is the only path that's a 7000 dollar commitment with deep maintenance requirements.

Thank you for your thoughts!

Ho hum!

Cblast can do all this, I just have to trailer my ride down to Washington.

If you do it right/get it right you should have zero issues with a 100shot and it will still be much cheaper than a turbo. Just don't be cheap or try cutting any corners, stick with the high quality, reliable, and trustworthy components and you will have a real effing monster!

How far are going to get before you use up all your nitrous? 1/4 mile? You need a turbo. I got a feeling your spray would be gone by the time you got out of your neighborhood.

5lbs tank strapped to that stretched swingarm will last a lot longer than you think.

You can up the fuel pressure and use the stock injectors if you want, but you risk burning up the pump over time. If you are planing to keep the bike as long as you say, larger injectors are what I would do if that's the route you want to take.

* Last updated by: Cornelius on 12/10/2013 @ 9:54 AM *

I'm wondering if he wants a progressed shot or a hard hit. Also it is imperative that valve springs be upgraded on anything beyond a 50HP shot. That is unless you enjoy waiting on your pistons to kiss a few valves. Personally I don't understand these types of mods if there isn't a laser activated timing system to study the outcome of aforementioned modifications. Furthermore, I have always been confused by the addition of go fast parts when the rider is clearly the weak link. The most important mod on the planet is the almighty RIDER MOD. Work on yourself and watch the tenths fall away. Once your times are competitive with others who are set up the same, then it is time to move into the next bracket or choose to be the quickest in the one your in. Now I know some of you might take that the wrong way and I don't want to offend anyone. I am simply challenging you all to be the best rider that YOU can be and not be defined by the upgrades or modifications that you have purchased. It's easy to fall into the "Throw money at my bike until i'm fast" category and I would rather you all work on your rider skills instead. Save a tree and support your local drag strip guys. I'm out.

Head and Cam kit would be more reliable and streetable than all above mentioned, just my 2cents

I agree that would be money well spent, but the plan was to do something that would allow one to "bridge the gap" between stock and turbo. A one hundred horsepower shot of spray would help to close that gap. A 20-25 horsepower increase would be negligible in a race against a turbo bike. This is assuming that we are talking about strictly allowing the bikes to do their thing and roll on instead of letting the rider's ability decide the outcome. It would be entirely possible for a turbo bike to lose to a stock motor bike in a drag strip scenario or a from a dig in general.