Fellow riders,
do you guys use other brand,rather than the OEM Kawi oil filter?
Would you stick with the OEM?
Thanks

oem juicey. no need to complicate things.

i use wix. Its cheaper and i trust it better. Its wix # 51358

Too many variables in the aftermarket stuff, why risk it when the OEM is designed to work with the lubrication system, proper bypass setting, proper pressure drop etc.?

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 4/13/2009 @ 8:36 AM *

Me and Kruz may not agree on oil selection, but we do agree on OEM filter choice

thanks 4 the input

I have always used and will continue to use Walmart ST7317 filters on my last bike and my 14.
It sounds crazy but the same company that builds Bosch and Mobil 1 filters make them for Wally World.

I have also hacked open a stock Kawi filter, a Mobil 1, and the ST7317 and you will find that both the Mobil 1 and Wally World filter are better construction.

This issue has and alway will spawn off debates like no one's business so I will simply say that if and when my engine blows up, I will eat the first piece of Crow Pie! ;)

I also change my Rotella Synthetic evey 1000 miles with the 2.00 Wally World filter.

SO why did I migrate? Mainly availability. I can always find the filters and pick up a few at a time and I know from 25000 miles of use that they are safe and relaible.

Pray for me!

shit, i've got 700 miles on my new motor and i've changed the oil 5 times.

shit, i've got 700 miles on my new motor and i've changed the oil 5 times.

Heh, irrelevant to a discussion about street bikes. :)

"Oldguy" from zx14.com recomended Napa #1358. He's a trustworthy and knowledgable person.

I have not tried a Napa. If I ever do, I'll do a disection to see if there appears to be any difference in particles trapped in filters.

I've been running mobile 1 filters for a long time. Very pleased with them. Mobile 1 has 2 that fit the M1-108 is the shorter filter and the M1-110 is the longer filter. I run the 110 it's the same length as the K&N 303.

Purolator Pure One PL14612 or pl14610 is the larger capacity one or L14612 or L14610 is the larger capacity one. The "P" is the micron filter.

Purolator PureOne PL14610 is a really great filter!! Just hate the new color it comes in.

"If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter."

This quote is from their site, not my words.

I posted something similar to that awhile back on another thread. You can't look at one aspect of the lubrication system in isolation. The oil pump delivery rate, pressure drop and bypass opening pressures are carefully engineered as a system. Change one and you effect the others. What good is it if you have a 99.9% filtration efficiency if the filter is so restrictive it prevents proper flow rate and pressure to the bearings and what if the bypass opens too early and starts to pass unfiltered oil or doesn't open at all and your starving for oil? I was running Mobil 1 filters on my VTX-1300 but then had a revelation maybe I wasn't doing the right thing, too many questions, too many variables. It's OEM for me, about $13 once or twice a year.

Kruz

I was surprised to see the quality of the OEM filter on the 14, much better than the Purolator ML series. It's true that the ML series is made in China, and I got to tell you, it looks cheap. It's going to be OEM for me also, after seeing the construction of the ML Purolator.
I'd rather have full oil pressure/flow to my vital parts rather than having the cleanest oil in the oil pan.

* Last updated by: extrapilot on 5/26/2009 @ 2:13 PM *

I use the Bosch 3300. Saw a comparison chart somewhere and the Bosch was rated well.

Jesse
97 zx11
06 zx14

* Last updated by: jessejames4 on 5/26/2009 @ 8:35 PM *

+1 on OEM filter made by Denso in Japan (no China )

Extrapilot wrote:

was surprised to see the quality of the OEM filter on the 14, much better than the Purolator ML series. It's true that the ML series is made in China, and I got to tell you, it looks cheap. It's going to be OEM for me also, after seeing the construction of the ML Purolator.
I'd rather have full oil pressure/flow to my vital parts rather than having the cleanest oil in the oil pan.

Did you open up the 14's OEM filter and take a look at the construction? I'd be interested in your conclusions. Those are exactly my thoughts on oil flow vs filtering efficiency, better to let a little filth get through then starve for oil. These are conclusions I reached after much oil filter research online and after talking to an auto parts guy that said they had received many complaints from folks running an aftermarket automotive filter that boasted extremely high filtering efficiency. They were getting low oil pressure lights on some vehicles, it was too restrictive. The high filter efficiency comes at a price, more restriction, no getting around it. I swapped back to OEMs on everything I own, better to stay with what you know works than to take chances with something this important.

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 5/27/2009 @ 10:33 AM *

With oil filters, always OEM for me. I am sure many other filters will work just as good and will not have any problems... but I personally do not want to take a risk on something like this when I don't have to. I just changed oil a couple of weeks ago, using a filter that I had bought a couple of months ago from local dealer. The day after changing my oil, I just happened to be in the neighborhood of another dealer, so I went in and picked up my next oil filter which I will probably use 3 months from now.

* Last updated by: faz on 5/27/2009 @ 3:46 PM *

The day after changing my oil, I just happened to be in the neighborhood of another dealer, so I went in and picked up my next oil filter which I will probably use 3 months from now.

Right now I have 6 each of OEM filters in the garage. Guess they will last me for a while

Did you open up the 14's OEM filter and take a look at the construction? I'd be interested in your conclusions. Those are exactly my thoughts on oil flow vs filtering efficiency, better to let a little filth get through then starve for oil. These are conclusions I reached after much oil filter research online and after talking to an auto parts guy that said they had received many complaints from folks running an aftermarket automotive filter that boasted extremely high filtering efficiency. They were getting low oil pressure lights on some vehicles, it was too restrictive. The high filter efficiency comes at a price, more restriction, no getting around it. I swapped back to OEMs on everything I own, better to stay with what you know works than to take chances with something this important.

Yes, I ripped it open. I thought is was way better constructed than the ML Purolator that I put on. It has a interesting filter element almost like a hard cardboard material. The material seems very sturdy as I had a hard time tearing it apart. The rubber valve that keeps the oil from bleeding out seems of quality also possible silicon.
My next filter will be the OEM.

On another note is the real reason that I ripped the filter apart is to see what might be trapped in it. I did see a far amount of what I would guess is bright aluminum shavings specks. This was at the very first oil change that I made at 600 miles. I wasn't to happy about that so I hoping the next filter change has allot less.

Extrapilot wrote:

On another note is the real reason that I ripped the filter apart is to see what might be trapped in it. I did see a far amount of what I would guess is bright aluminum shavings specks. This was at the very first oil change that I made at 600 miles. I wasn't to happy about that so I hoping the next filter change has allot less.

All engines make a little metal at first oil change, it's machining swarf and sharp edges getting knocked off all the moving parts, completely normal and should settle down next oil change or two. I remember Hub cut his OEM filter open awhile back and it looked like one of those 5 day old burritos you can buy at the local 7-11....really nasty! It could be the oil he's running, he's got a couple of cases of something left over from the disco era. Hey, by the way do you fly aerobatics? With a name like Extrapilot I was thinking you might be refering to Walter Extra's superb aerobatic machine.

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 5/28/2009 @ 8:08 AM *

Hey, by the way do you fly aerobatics? With a name like Extrapilot I was thinking you might be refering to Walter Extra's superb aerobatic machine.

I don't know how I missed your post, but anyway I fly scale r/c stuff, yea... Walter's Extra's, and a Edge 540 large scale. Love the sport but it's been taken a back seat to the motorcycling thing lately.

Getting back to the cruddy stuff in the oil, I just changed it today and still have some of the same stuff I had with the first oil change.
They look the same as these pictures.

I posted this at Bikeland also.

Hmmm, quite a bit there, how many miles now? Is it magnetic or nonmagnetic? Also did any of it come from cutting the filter open? They make filter cutters that introduce zero debris, act like a giant can opener.

I was into the giant scale R/C aerobatics for years, sold out everything back in 2005 when they closed our club field on the northwest side of San Antonio to make room for another strip mall (like we really needed anymore of those). It just got to be too far to drive and the wind seemed to always be blowing. My last two birds were a 78" Extra 300 with a Moki 2.1 and a 72" Giles 202 with a Saito 1.8. I've got a cool video somewhere where I dragged the rudder of an Extra down the runway on a low inverted pass.

Kruz