I'm mainly concerned with performance but I don't even know what special features to look for in a chain. Light weight and high articulation is all I can imagine one would look for. Durability would be nice if I can have that with light weight. Just some ideas to start a thread but I'm interested to hear any other comments about drive chains.

Get a strong, high tensile strength chain. Preferably one with a staked link. I think OEM is continuous link. So, you would have to pull the swing arm.

Thanks Hub. I remember painter's thread a while back. I think he had to remove the swingarm to change his chain. I don't understand why this would be necessary but I guess I will find out.

http://www.ekchain.com/sport.htm

I like EK chains. I have a installed a couple of these as replacements in the past with no problems. I think most racers use this brand because they are available in supper long lengths and are strong.
I couldn't see going lighter with our bikes though.

You can buy an aftermarket chain breaker-as for reconnecting the link,I personally would let a reputable shop do that-just in case "something" goes wrong.

The Rook: "I don't understand why this would be necessary but I guess I will find out."

To get the 3-dimensional in perspective: Stand on the left side of the bike. Imagine, you pull the chain off the sprockets, the chain comes straight out to you. That is X or the horizontal position.

Stand over the bike, looking down at the chain; remove the chain off the sprockets, lift the chain straight up and out toward you. This is the Y or vertical position.

The 3rd angle you see is the frame as a post. It stops you from removing the chain that way; won't work. You pull the chain straight up, see if that works and how do you pass that chain up past the swing, if the frame is in the way? Now the both are in the way... Only way is pull the swing arm.
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You need a chain breaker and a grinder. Grind both staked pins deeper past the flat link. Now it is easier on you and the chain breaker tool. Evenly pushing both pins out the same distance. You have the new link, you install that through the old chain link hole. You are going to pull the old chain out. Then, set the new chain into the new link.

Make sure both chains are flush, because the next trick is to pull the old rung from the bottom, and feed the new chain from above. Either chain moves, it will hit the case before rolling over the sprocket, or the link will not roll over the tooth being it floated out. Watch that on the feed and you saved a lot of time; is just one continuous pull. Clean the master pin off from the old chain any rust then re-lube. You clean and use the old link, it's easier to clean a pin than a hole. The new link pin is much longer, if the chain decides to float off the link.

Good info. Thanks, everyone. I will have to pull that cover off the front sprocket to determine if I want to do this myself. I have been intending to clean the goop out of that area for a while now.

rook if you have a chain break and press(must) this job is a breeze if your going to change gearing this is the time to do it. ive done this job without the above mentioned tools trust me it worth the $100 price tag for the right tools. they will pay for themselves with a couple chain replacements. good luck

ps. im with extrapilot like the ek chains

^^Yeah, no sense in putting a new chain on only to have to cut itat a later time in order to redo the front sprocket. I'm not sure I need to go down one in front though. I'm not even sure I want to go up 2 in back either. Seems like it may be too much power for cornering. Well, I see we have a gearing thread going here. I'll have to do some reading there. That is a more complex issue than the chain. Thanks for chain and gearing comments, Scott.

when i did my zx9 i went down 1 up 2 they told me thats like going up 5 on the back cause going down 1 is equivelent to going up 3 in the rear. they have what they call an optimum ratio for the 9 it was down 1 up 2 dont know what it would be for the 14 ill try to find the article that explains the optimun ratio it doesnt give you more hp but utizes all the hp the bike has to offer something like that like i said ill find the article and post it for you

rook this was the article for my 9 ill try to find opt for 14

The Kawasaki ZX9R. The Original, and some say best, literbike. Yes, it's fast. Yes, it's overkill and Yes it's getting just a *little* behind the times from the latest breed of literbikes. What can you do to keep up? We have the #1 upgrade for your ZX9R and it's the 520 conversion kit. You might not be keeping up, you might just be blowing by them!

This fits all of the ZX900R (aka ZX9R) models from 1994 to 2003 and increases power response across the rev range. Dyno tests prove that you can reach peak torque and HP an average of .6 seconds faster than stock!

Stock Sprocket sizes are 16 tooth front 41 tooth rear which has a final drive ratio of 2.56 The optimum ratio is 15 tooth front 43 tooth rear which has a final drive ratio of 2.87. That's more like it!

Extensive testing on the street, eddy current dyno and on the race track have proven that this is the optimum ratio for your bike, however we can customize and resize the sprocket ring sizes for your application, your riding style or preferred fitment ratio.

Changing Gearing

Adjusting the tooth count in front and rear sprocket changes the way the bike performs.
A size increase in the rear sprocket and/or a decrease in the front sprocket will favor torque for increased acceleration.
A size decrease in the rear sprocket and/or an increase in the front sprocket will favor top end speed.

Gearing is a key variable in racing. Each rider, bike, and track will demand a different set-up. Though we cannot tell you which will work best for you, the most popular combination for a typical track-day would be a +2 Rear / -1 Front for increaseacceleration without limiting too much top end speed.

Weight Reduction Changing the sprocket to the Vortex aluminum rear sprocket and lightened front sprocket will eliminate considerable mass. This can be further reduced by converting chain and sprockets to a 520 size.

In a side-by-side comparison of a typical front and rear sprocket, we found these results:
Front Sprocket Weight Savings: .11lb
Rear Sprocket Weight Savings: .525lb
Total Sprocket Weight Savings: .635lb
Estimated Rotating Mass Savings: 2.54lb
520 Conversion Sprocket/Chain savings: 2.145lb
Estimated Rotating Mass Savings: 8.58lb

Thanks again, Scott. Appreciate the info. I may go with one down in front and stay at 41 rear for now because the back would be easy to change if/when I'm ready for it. I have a bit more than I know what to do with in the tight corners as is.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/10/2009 @ 8:53 AM *

rook good idea plus when you go up on back front end gets really light my 9 turned into a wheelie machine had to lower it