Hey people. I having trouble breaking the screw lose to the engine block so I can put on my frame sliders. Any suggestions on how to break lose the screws. Rooks tutorial doesnt show how he did it. Thx.

Well...sorry no one's answering.I'll offer this...though I've only loosened the bolts once on my then zx14 07.You might try taking a center punch...something that'll fit inside that bolt head indent...and give it a sharp 'rap' with a ball peen hammer or something similar...don't hit it koo koo...just a firm quick rap...see if that will break the factory loctite a bit loose?Remember...it's only aluminum...so go carefully.

Thx Grn14.. I'm gonna try it again as soon as I get home from work today.

Take said socket.
Take said extension.
Take said breaker bar.
Take said extend the length of the breaker bar is a pipe over the breaker bar.

Load the extension.
Center the L position so it does not fall off a flat with the socket at an angle.
Your left hand acts the torsion bar, you lift and load, and push down as if to wrinkle the head of the bolt so it torsions off.

Do not load and not lift so as not to create the torsion effect. This is where you crack sockets or tear the head flats off the bolt, the socket slips from too much force in one direction. So the deal is, never unload the head so it stops flexing.

Engine hot, Ice cube on bolt head. Follow steps above.

Was going to get frame sliders, but knowing my luck, I would go down just right and break the motor mounts ...

Engine hot, Ice cube on bolt head. Follow steps above.

Ice cubes are for drinks. You want to follow the hot engine step, but spray with 'Dust Off' so you freeze-crack the head right off, plus, you spray the socket too: watch out! JK

Product out called Kano Kroil
Machine shops use to release stuck bolts. I have used it to unstick rusted out bolts etc. always works. Not harmful. Good stuff. Comes in an orange can. Bout 10 bucks. Worth it! Couple drops, wait a few, then use Hubs central and even careful application of force, voila.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 11/7/2013 @ 9:24 PM *

Tried evetything nothing worked so far. Gonna try and
Find that product Cblast.

Hey bud, seriously, literally like two or three drops and let it soak in couple minutes. Make you laugh how easy it breaks free. If you can't find it I will ship you a small can with a receipt in box and you can PayPal me back.

Gonna look for it today. I'm gonna check a few hardware stores and see if I find it. Thx 4 pic. I know exactly
What I'm looking for.

Nitti,

If the hardware stores dont have it, try gun shops and sporting goods, there is a place called Eastwoods in Pottstown PA. But it is probably far from you, BUT it is VERY EXPENSIVE there, here is there number and address :

Eastwood
263 Shoemaker Road
Pottstown PA 19464-6433 (800) 343-9353

So far no luck in hardware stores.. pottstown is about 45 mins from me. Gonna try the gun shops and there is a sporting good store I'm gonna try too.

You most definitely need to have an allen that's got very sharp angles on the end there...nothing even remotely looking rounded.Buy a new one if you need to...heat the motor...use a small diameter breaker bar slip over...and go easy but firm with it.It'll break free...you just haven't got it yet....it'll come loose.

I've had luck loading bolts before with the tool...then give the handle(breaker bar)a sharp hit upward(as it's being held in a loaded position on the wrench)...gotta get the bar all the way down the allen shaft(long end) part though.......that should break it free.Just watch that the wrench doesn't hit the bodywork when she breaks free.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/8/2013 @ 10:47 AM *

Hold on, hold on, this oil base is for rust, not locker thread taking up the gap. That liquid won't penetrate that material they use that is embedded in the threads.

1. Hitting up means tightening. Hitting means snapping/shock. It's already max torqued, so the last thing is to tighten and begin to pull threads/stretch bolts.

2. Sharp allen flats. For sure, this is your best shot at removing that bolt. The breaker bar would have to be the sacrificial whack to the pivot. Good call.

3. Your last shot at something as simple as removing said bolt, sans the rocket science it's turning into, is go back out and bang on the breaker bar with a hammer. That means, someone else is pushing down on the breaker bar, you are on the right side of the bike, or someone is pulling up on the bar is standing the left side of the bike. We know our rightea tightea, leftea looSEE: Now, bang on the pivot of the breaker bar so you shock the bolt this way to come loose.

Here is my suggestion:

1. Walk away from the bolt.

2. Wake up and say, "I'm not going to crash, I'm not going to crash."

3. Go to bed and before you fall asleep say, "I don't need sliders, I don't needs those sliders."

Hub that's exaxtly what I'm going be doing if these damn bolts don't wanna come loose. I would like to have sliders on before she is completely broken in. So I still have a few hundred miles to go. Lol. Gonna go get the breaker bar and try that tomorrow.

I went sliding down the road back in July and didn't get a single scratch on the area the sliders are supposed to save... I dont have sliders either... Just saying... the bar end, lower fairing and muffler took it all.... sliders wouldn't have made a bit of difference... it might have saved the bar end?

* Last updated by: nasty on 11/8/2013 @ 2:01 PM *

"Hitting up means tightening"....my bad...poor choice of words...I was describing how I might do it....it's going counterclockwise anyway to loosen...whichever way your force is going....You set that breaker at 12 o'clock,then you'd be hitting.....'down'kinda.Over?....I'd probably set that breaker bar at 1 or 2 o'clock,hold that allen in there good with my left hand(and the bar as well)...smack that bar with my right....HARD.I wouldn't try using a hammer on it....too easy to miss and kaboom...there goes yer plastics or tank...whatever.

Breaker bar needs to fit nice and snug on that allen....take up the 'slack'...bam...hit that puppy with the palm of your hand...(maybe wear a glove that won't slip on ya).That's how I'd do it.It needs something 'similar' to an impact wrench type hit.Something sharp and hard.You may get it to break loose going slow...but I doubt it...more risk there rounding off that bolt head...heat that engine up nice and toasty first.

Hub's got it right...you have to shock that bolt.The closer you can get to the bolt head with the tool...the better.You want to avoid the allen torsioning as you smack it.Maybe a good 3/8ths wratchet and a short allen wrench(bit)...something that'll fit into a short socket?Might be better all around?Then use your breaker bar on the wrench handle.If you can do that...I think it'd be better than a flexing allen wrench.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/8/2013 @ 3:48 PM *

you have to shock that bolt.

This is what impact guns do. I would try a 3/8" (.375) gun for a few bursts.

NOTE: The Craftsman socket allens you may be using are not equal to what I'm proposing. You'll need Snap-on, MAC, Cornwell, or their equivalent (forged and deep hardened from a quality melt)

I never put any sliders on my 2012 but I had them on my 2007. I used a t-handle craftsman allen head with a set of Big Channel locks on the T-Handle to break them loose. Worked good but it actually twisted the Allen slightly. Those bastards have red locktite on them!

More than likely you're looking at galvanic corrosion from a cad-plated or zinc-plated bolt in an aluminum thread, rather than thread locker, so try the Kroil anyway. What have you got to lose?

And before you put it back together, clean the bolt threads and use a little anti-seize lubricant on them. Gives a truer torque reading and they'll come out the next time. Had the same issue on the front axle the first time I needed to spoon on a new front tire.

Kroil contains petroleum distillates that will dissolve the loctite and facilitate the break loose. I put about four drops on mine. Waited ten minutes. Had Frank the tank hold her steady, and broke her loose, then cleaned and re-torqued. Easy.