Just wondering if the header will slip out without removing the radiator or can the radiator be loosened to make space? I'd really like to save some work if possible.
My other question, does the coolant drain bolt gasket have to be replaced whenever the bolt is removed? Just wondering if it can be re-used once. I don't want to go to the dealer unless it's necessary.

* Last updated by: KAK on 2/5/2010 @ 4:50 PM *

I removed my rad to remove header and that seemed a lot safer. Just tilting the rad forward won't increase the space between the header nuts too much. If you are draining your cooling system, removing the radiator is not much work.

You can reuse the gasket on the coolant drain plug at least one time. The torque isn't that high. I think you might reuse it a few times.

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Thanks Rook. I figured the radiator would have to be removed but hoped not. I can't believe how much work it is just to get to the header bolts. It just seems a little harder since this is my first time removing all the bodywork and it seems each piece is "stuck". Working with plastics and not knowing exactly how to "pull here or push there" makes you think you're gonna break something. Now I have to remove the radiator and go through the re-fill/bleed thing which I hope is no trouble. With the wheels taken apart for powdercoating/polishing, looks like I've got half my bike all over the garage.
As for the drain bolt gasket, I take it you re-used yours?

i took mine off without removing the radiator, u gotta kinda force the radiator forward kinda hard after u get the bottom mount bolts off and with a couple universal joints and extensions you can get the nuts off...helps with another person, had my brother hold the radiator while i got the headers off, i bent like 2 fins from one of the header pipes, but i guess thats what u get for being lazy to do the whole drain/re-fill deal lol

Thanks rcflyer for verifying the radiator must be removed!

* Last updated by: KAK on 2/6/2010 @ 6:44 AM *

^^

Now I have to remove the radiator and go through the re-fill/bleed thing which I hope is no trouble

Yep. As long as you get it all back together, refilling is a snap and bleeding is even easier. Just pour slow and that should take care of most of the air that could get trapped. Also, when you bleed, have a pan under the rad because if the coolant gets warm enough during bleeding, it will overflow the filler neck.

As for the drain bolt gasket, I take it you re-used yours?

I reused mine. It has been torqued 3 times and does not leak. The torque is only 9 ft lbs.

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wow take a listen to these brocks duals on the dyno ....wicked sound

http://www.brockracing.com/Exhaust_Videos/CT_Series/Dual_and_Single.htm

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this is pasted from brocks website:

STEP 10: REMOVE THE STOCK HEADER
using a
No. 6 hex the back wrench.
ratchet place with
release bolt.
from the
ASSEMBLY:
The procedure described below does not require removal of the radiator. However, the fit is tight and care should be taken to avoid damage to the radiator.
• Remove the header nuts using a ratchet with 12mm socket. extension will allow easier access to the header bolts. There bolts per header. Once the bolts are removed do not allow the flange to fall and contact the radiator. Carefully move the
a position away from the radiator.
• Once all bolts are removed, carefully remove the header from engine. Avoid contact with the radiator.

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I figured the header can be removed without removing the radiator but it isn't really worth it. Too easy to damage something. After you get the header out you'd most likely have to pick out the stuck header gaskets too and that wouldn't be easy without a straight view of what you're doing.
Only thing that went wrong for me (first time draining/removing radiator) was spilling coolant.
I removed the drain bolt and....nothing. I swear not a drop. I'm like, "what the hell"? Well, I'm sure most of you know why and what comes next.
I went around the other side of the bike and fiddled with the radiator cap which, like most stuff on the bike, seemed "stuck". After a few moments to get it right (and forget the drain bolt was still out)I popped the cap and heard a pissing sound. It was pissing allright. Shot out about 18" past my catch bowl and all over my clean garage floor. Only a couple seconds but quite a mess.
I'll learn.

I replaced my stock exhaust without removing the radiator. I used a car towel over the front fender and removed the mouting boults and pushed it towards the front tire just a little. no problem. Make sure you replace the gaskets in the head for each cylinder. had to use a small slot screw driver to pry them out. I have helped install a Brocks and my Muzzy on two 14's now doing it this way.

* Last updated by: LAB3 on 3/20/2010 @ 8:41 PM *

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Put my Tsukigi system on without removing radiator. No damage. Might as well pull it as it was a tight pain.

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Tape a piece of cardboard on the radiator to protect it from damage. I will protect the radiator with a piece of cardboard even when I remove it, all it takes is one slip and then your like son of a bitch!

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+1 and no cuts on hands.

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