I've always done it the old fashioned way. Hard to clean off overspray around the back of the sprocket without wiping off some of the lube on the chain.
I remember seeing a product, I think it was called a "Scotts oiler" or something like that. It fits around the chain and I assume keeps the lube inside as you roll the chain through it.
This thread idea just came to me as I was reading other threads here. So I can do a search and see if something like that is around but would appreciate any thoughts if you've used this or a similar product or found the best way to lube the chain.
Thanks.

The scott oiler is a lube slow drip. It oils constantly.

that would seem messy

... and I assume keeps the lube inside as you roll the chain through it. How do you mean that?

How do you cross over that creek but to send pressure lube back to that middle connect ring. How you going to do that? If you think you are going to jam spray...

... Down the middle if you have a rubber o-ring at the end.

Say there is no o-ring in place. I would think, one would have to remove the chain, lay the chain on either link side, soak as to raise the bubble of air to the top so the link does not lay horizontal, and have two sides fill up is lock the bubble in the middle kind of lube.

How can an auto lube run around the chain and create a pressure to lube the pin's center? I wanna see that trick. We are stuck waiting for the chain to wear out eventually. And if you think about the wear factor, the chain only moves around the chain about half way around the pin. If you ever pulled an old worn master link from a chain, you can see the rolling over the sprockets just crunch away the one side of the pin. Once that occurs over and over the sprocket teeth, you can see how the chain will stretch uniformly apart from pin to pin. Thus, the critical measurement known as your, "serviceable limit" is wear you find out how much longer you can waste lube keeping the noise down, having the outside rollers crash into a film of lube.

Why? Did you come across a post, Stephen giving me a ration'O'sheet? Sheet down is hold a chair under me I about fell back, Stephen mentions he would not question me, I'm sending along a tip is proof positive, after 10K miles, time that link to tooth with each tire change, then lube with wheel bearing grease with a tooth brush and forget about cleaning it.

The grit will cling no matter where you ride. My cleaning is to wear a glove, then squeeze what I over brushed with, meaning, this picks what grit is there on the chain. The grease moving the grit is now suspended in the 'over-grease' that is about to fling off and pepper my rear wheel in a few outings.

My point is, I have that camera picking up a smooth running chain. Do I think the chain runs that smooth re-timing the chain back to it's original position? I'll let you be the judge of that. High ho, eye owe, how low can my chain go...? <<<

Hub, if I remember right, you attached a tube from the can to the oiler/luber and "spayed" as you rotated the wheel. The lube engulfed the entire chain as it passed through.
Again, I'm not sure what product it was or the name. If something like that is out there it would be easier to apply lube and with much less waste/cleanup.
I'm aware the o-rings seal in the grease and also keep most chain lube from getting in where it's needed. But I don't like rust on the outer part of the chain and if the lube is a good one, like Maxima Chain Wax, then the o-rings stay in better shape and don't crack and fall off as easily.

Here's what I do KAK.Get er up on a rear stand.Take a cotton rag.Pour on some Marvel Mystery Oil.Turn the rear tire "backwards" with my right hand.Hold the folded cloth around the entire circumference of the links,right where they leave the sprocket(on the bottom going forward) with my left hand.Don't go too fast with the tire-making sure you are getting all sides of the links,and replenishing the Marvel Oil as needed to coat and clean the chain.Then wipe dry the same way with a clean cloth,also cleaning the sprocket face on both sides.Then,apply Dupont Multiuse Teflon spray to the inside and outside links,rotating the tire forward this time,spraying several links at a time and allowing the liquid to flow DOWN the sprocket/link application point.So you end up doing several links at once,keeping a clean rag covering the hub and wheel there as you go along.Spray sitting directly in back of the rear wheel,at the rearmost curve of the sprocket-Starting the first spraying at the top of the sprocket on the links,and working your way down the outside/inside edges of the links.Repositioning the cloth as needed to cover the wheel hub and rim area.Takes about 15 minutes to get er done well.Then after using the marvel oil,you can easily wipe you chain down when you go to respray it(every several hundred miles),and it's a lot cleaner and simpler.It'll only take ya about 5 minutes to spray as needed in the next go around.If you've wiped your chain clean of mystery oil,you'll have a nice"no-fling"experience after spraying with the Dupont Teflon.And your chain will look brand new all the time!No need to remove your chain guard when doing it like this. And ya won't have fling going everywhere each time ya ride.SHWEEET!If you already have rust developing on your outer links-you can first lightly brush the links with a STAINLESS STEEL welders brush(the small ones)soaking in Marvel Oil as you brush the rust off.Do not brush on top of links or try to get inside the parts where the x-rings are at.You don't want to damage those.Only the outside faces of the links(Hub side,and outboard side)LIGHTLY BRUSH-and wipe clean as you move along.I use the "endless" chain link for my starting point.One good application and cleaning with the marvel,and you won't have ANY more rusting as long as you spray your chain regularly with the Dupont.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 2/9/2010 @ 11:46 PM *

Thanks blue. Sounds good.
To add, I've always heard to lube the chain right after riding, before it cools down. Supposed to allow better lube penetration.

Probably best to do it that way.I don't myself.

I've always heard to lube the chain right after riding, before it cools down. Supposed to allow better lube penetration.

I think it works best to go for a long ride so the whole bike gets good and warmed up. You can use the heat of the motor to keep the chain warm as you spin it over the front sprocket. I usually turn the chain every few minutes after I'm done spraying it so that the half that has cooled off on the rear sprocket gets warmed up again. Might as well use the engine heat for something. The heat also makes cleaning the chain off easier.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/11/2010 @ 7:28 PM *

I like this method for cleaning a dirty chain...
Spray it with liberel amounts of proper chain cleaner..then use one of those mountain bike chain cleaning devices...they sort of fit over the chain..then slowly turn the wheel...the grit will come loose..from ime to time remove the device...clean it..do it a again...then rag the chain a few times...then with low air pressure if you have a comprressor...gently blast the chain of more debris..

then I love to put more proper chain cleaner on it...take it for a ride (1 mile)then coem home wash the bike off....the chain too with water..then blast it with more low pressure air..allow to dry..then spray it with proper oil.

Lubes that worked real well for me were the grease you use for bearings..awesome stuff..goop it on your hands and massage it into the chain..then wipe excess off..this works best I found..but also attracts lots of dirt..or simply buy a new chain..keep it releatiely clean...then only use little oil to coat the outsides of it...

My new EK chain I installed..I will only do a wipe down of dirt on it everey month...and not spray lots of oil on it ever...to see how long she lasts like this...my thinking is this..if you keep lubing it to much more dirt sticks..and if you clean it often with cleaners...then perhaps the grease in the orings may be compromised....my thoughts only.,.,

KY is my expertise area...ha ha

I use a moose or similar chain cleaner, then wd40.
Yes wd40 is not a chain lube, yes its supposed to dry out o rings, yes I change my chain every 3 years, and no there is no goop on my bike.

allot of ppl use wd40.... its clean! Its awesome for removing road grime and chain wax too, just don't get it on your brakes.

thats what I use on all my bikes anyway...

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Romans,

I have that exact same can of chain wax, but haven't applied it yet as its still not quite riding weather in these parts. I stopped at my usual shop to pick up a battery for another bike, and while there asked the guys behind the counter about lube for my 14.

One of the guys swore up and down by that can of "Chain Wax" in your picture, and said its by far the easiest and cleanest way to keep up with chain maintenance. He said that using the wax prevents the usual splattering onto the rear wheel that can come with using lube, so that was enough for me to give it a shot. He advised me to apply it when I return home from a ride, while things are warmed up.. by the time the bike cools the wax will solidify and you are good to go.

From the pic you posted I am looking forward to it, do you have any other comments to add?

Like I mentioned earlier in this thread, I use Maxima Chain wax and have for many years. I've used it throughout the life of at least 4 o-ring chains on my '79 GS1000. Now I use it on the 14 but have only logged 6K so far with no issues. I've never had an o-ring crack and fall off, unlike brands like PJ Blue label that swear their formula protects o-rings. Maxima has almost zero fling off. Just a little "dusting" comes off in the immediate areas near the chain but it's very minimal and never a concern for getting on the rotor or tire. I don't see much dirt attracted either.
Easy to apply with not much waste if applied right. It sets up/thickens pretty quick but clean up of overspray is easy if you get to it. There may be better stuff out there but I'm happy with it. I can't say what a wax would be like in really cold temps though. Coldest I've used it in is about 28 degrees with no known issues.
Just a side note, if Maxima still makes their synthetic clear lube in the SILVER can and it's unchanged from a few years ago, DO NOT USE that crap! Dangerous stuff is an understatement. I tried it a few years ago since it was "synthetic" and their chain wax was so good I though it would be better. I applied it correctly and went for a test ride before going on our scheduled run that day. The stuff flew all over the bike. I mean like f'in spiderwebs. I immediately lost all brake power on my disc and went back to the garage and sprayed brake cleaner and cleaned everything off including wiping the chain off somewhat. I went down our street again and it happened again. Cleaned off again. Went to the gas station to fill up before the ride and the braking was almost gone again. I couldn't believe how the stuff just kept coming off when I thought I had most of it wiped away.
I was pissed and couldn't understand how a product like this could be "tested" and released on us! Did I have some freak can? I doubt it. I swear I applied it right.
In some other situation, maybe another rider that didn't pre-test a new product like I do, or higher speeds involved, someone could get hurt or killed using this crap. I hope it's not around anymore or if it is, it's been changed. Hard to believe the same company can make one product so good and the other so bad.

* Last updated by: KAK on 2/16/2010 @ 12:50 AM *

He advised me to apply it when I return home from a ride, while things are warmed up.. by the time the bike cools the wax will solidify and you are good to go.
From the pic you posted I am looking forward to it, do you have any other comments to add?

4 the first time I did both before and after. My thinking at the time was I wanted the new chain to heat up and have the cold wax seep into and around the roller bearings as well as lube the o-rings. Right or wrong I'm not sure but made sense at the time lol. I can tell you with wax the maintenance is much easier to stay on top of. Nothing Bad to report. I can understand why this topic is so important and is on almost every one of the bike sites. IMO there are way to many different kinds of garbage out there for sale and I have bought quite a few of them. Castrol being the worst and Bel-Ray being one of the better ones. What pissed me off about the Bel-Ray brand was that it just keeps packing up and is a bitch to get off and looks like shit(white). I think my old chain weighed in much heavier after I started using their brand. The wax is easy and stays on and is invisible. By now most people have picked there favorite brands and will be hard pressed to change their minds but if you want to try something different give this one a try. You will be happy you did. Cheers.

Romans, I'm liking your sprocket. Is it steel? If so, what brand?

+1 for chain wax, no matter what brand

I've been trying various ways to lubricate street bike chains for 40 years. Everything from the oil can from the machine shop to taking the chain off and soaking it, and in between.

Once I found chain wax, I quit searching. No splatter, it doesn't get on the wheel, it protects the o-ring chains we use these days great.

So far, I'm just using kerosene on a rag to clean the chain, which works well.

* Last updated by: privateer on 2/17/2010 @ 4:10 AM *

Romans, I'm liking your sprocket. Is it steel? If so, what brand?

Nope,Vortex Aluminium. Light weight and trouble free. I have read tons on the gloom and doom of aluminum but I have nothing but praise for these sprockets. They are cheap and easy to get. May be it's the wax lol.

Once I found chain wax, I quit searching. No splatter, it doesn't get on the wheel, it protects the o-ring chains we use these days great.

2ND that, well put.

Thanks Roman. I'm skeptical of aluminum too. But like you say it isn't that much to buy another.
If you change it later due to wear I'd like to know how many miles it went before needing replacing.
I thought about changing mine while I had the wheels off for polish/powdercoating but decided to wait 'til next time I need new rubber.
Maybe then I could get a progress report on your sprocket to help me decide?

privateer, yes, kerosene to clean any o-ring chain. Doesn't make the o-rings brittle like WD and other stuff.

used a product called tirox chain cleaner it comes with a spiral brush and it worked really well. Going to try their lube this season its supposed to be fantastic, its clear and doesn't fly off

Hmmmm... that rear sprocket looks very familiar..................

I also use the chain wax... BUT you must heat up the chain before you apply it. I also carry a little can of Motoline Chainlube 622 Synthetic under the seat.

The BIGGEST thing (and probably the most important) for modern o-ring chain is to keep it clean.

Chain wax can gunk up, too. When I removed my countershaft cover, there was gunk all over. I've cleaned most of it up.

I use kerosene to clean the chain before spraying lube on the inside of the chain only so as to minimise the mount that flings off afterwards.

clean and oil chain every second tank

Still got the original chain after 46,000km (approx 28500 of your yank miles :) )

OZ

try this guys

http://prostores2.carrierzone.com/servlet/brockracing/-strse-2809/Alisyn-Synthetic-Chain-Lubricant/Detail