The rear was easy. The fron is probably not bad but I already have a few questions.

1. What is thei s plate for? I removed it from above the front fender right where the horn is mounted below triple tree. Wanted to have better access to the brake line that comes from the front brake master cilynder. Is this plate some sort of splash guard? I would like to leave it off the bike. Any problems you can forsee? The fender ought to hold back everything that gets flung up, NO?

2. Might want to remove the horn and leave it of the bike. Can this be done without cutting wires?

3. The OEM brake line has a small block placed in line en rout to the front caliper. AFAIK, the block serves as nothing more than a mount to fasten the line to the triple tree. The aftermarket lines I have do not have this block. Am I correct iN ASSuming that the after market line is routed down to the caliper all in one piece of hose without the block shaped fitting?

4. Does anyone ever go with aftermarket clutch lines? I'm sure it is not needed but I'd like to do it if I can get a hold of a clutch lin(es).

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It's called a "stem cover".

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/19/2011 @ 1:19 AM *

Thanks blue. That is ironic. A cover that has a hole over the thing it is covering.

2. Might want to remove the horn and leave it of the bike. Can this be done without cutting wires?

You removed the OEM horn didn't you, Blue?

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Yes Rook...I did.You MUST leave your horn on...you KNOW you're gonna be riding,and then....you're gonna want to just "hear it",just to make sure it's working.I think you can unplug the wires somewhere around that ram duct at the frame...I think the connector is there somewhere,under the bodywork.You only see these IF you're looking directly under and up from the fender...not visible "just looking" at the frontend.They fit very nicely in there.Not as loud as your "steble",but better than Factory for sure.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/19/2011 @ 10:54 AM *

My aftermarket lines are kevlar, not steel but I suppose the concern that they not bind up the steering is no different.

You want those lines to float on hard braking. If they ride up, make sure they don't hook to something and stop you from turning.

Good suggestion. I zip tied the rear line to a bolt hole in the mount for the OEM brake line retainer. It does slide around quite a bit.

Squids cut wires. Common sense says follow the connectors and unclip.

For what it is, that horn is a pretty heavy part. I'd like to get rid of it. I have yet to snip a single wire on the bike yet. I followed the horn wire up to the right ram air duct and there it goes into a wad of tape with a gazillion other wires. I am thinking there may be NO connector?

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The brake hose block takes the hose coming down from the master on the handlebar, and distributes it to the left and right brake calipers.

Hence, the stock configuration is called a 3-hose.

If you get two brake hose made, that reach all the way from the master to the calipers, one hose per, that is called a 2-hose. I just did that when I extended all my hoses and cables by 7" over the winter.

I'd leave the piece of plastic installed. It keeps dirt and water from blowing up around the steering stem, and forces air flow over the top section of the radiator, which tends not to get much air.

I.E., you don't think Kawasaki spent money on that piece without it having a purpose? Oh wait, some of us are smarter than Kawasaki? I don't think so. :)

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How bout a Caliper?Can't we just get rid of a couple of those?Kawasaki put too many on there.Way to much to work with.WTH were they thinking? Certainly won't need a horn...nah...NOBODY would be dumb enough to start backing up out of a parking spot right into your path....Nahh...or some little kid try to run across yer path at the market..nah....Horns...sheesh...what a useless do dad.

God knows...there's NO WAY your front line could EVER spring a leak...nah...let's just get rid of that REDUNDANT thing in the back there...useless,completely useless.

Rook...you don't need that dumb plastic "stem cover" on there...you couldn't possibly get a rock tossed up into the bearing area,or the frame casting...maybe start a hairline crack in there.Geez...no way.Somebody needs to school Kawasaki about the realities of bike ownership.That particular shape it has there..you know,kinda just covers the line junction block there...NO WAY could you ever run over or have something fall off a vehicle in front of ya...you know...and have a piece of something smack that metal,brittle block...They're so....anal.Gotta say though,the use of a single line,that WOULD eliminate any risk of something going wrong at the fittings right there!WTH were they thinkin when they came up with THAT design? .

Hell,they could have just used ONE brake caliper for the front...saved a bunch of money,and made their bike a lot lighter in the process!After all,she's "supposed" to have the best brake(s)in the production sportbike arena.

"the front fender ought to stop anything that could fling up there,no?".................mmmmmmm.....NO.What if?...nah....never happen.No way.And that kid aint never gonna jump out from Mommy Dearest's hand either.Ditch the horn Rook.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/20/2011 @ 4:08 AM *

Look at it this way. Hub has some good information. And he's tinkered a lot, which is worth something.

But the engineers that designed the ZX11, 12, and 14, are the same who designed the ZX10R which took the last WSB pole in the rain. I don't know how it did in the race, but this season the rider can't blame the bike.

Those guys and ladies are world class motorcyle engineering minds, and they didn't put one single nut, bolt, washer, or do-dad on the ZX14 that doesn't serve a practical purpose.

Take it apart. I did. First time I ever put something back together and didn't have parts left over (usually because I said, "who needs this?!". In fact, this is the first bike I've had apart that I didn't make new parts for because "I can do it better than the factory did".

Hub is always saying, its great the way it shipped, leave it alone. So put it back together the way it came from the factory.

Of course, if you wreck the darn thing and can't afford to put new plastic on it, you probably say, "It doesn't need that, it works better without it".

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I installed a Stebel Horn this past spring, which just fell off last week BTW(don't trust the steel brackets they include(they snap in half)). I mounted the Stebel, which BTW BTW sucks as an upgrade horn, on one of those bolts and the stock horn on the other kinda like Blue's pic above. I had to remove that silly BS cover there because the Stebel was just too big to fit.
Since then my intake air temperature has dropped dramtically due to increased flow around the airbox and I lost about an ounce of weight off the front of the bike. Another unexpected bonus is the air makes a detour up around the ram-air ducts and spirals through the George Foremans creating negative pressure at the front of the bike, pulling the bike along which equated to an increase of 20 rwhp, not including the horses freed up by the lost ounce of plastic! The amazing thing is you are worried about a 6X6 inch peice of aerodynamic plastic. And your only replacing the brake lines, Rook. Why get rid of that cover, not that I think it being gone would make a hill of a beans worth of difference!? Of course, the cover is there to maximize air to the radiator but thinking that leaving it off the bike will call some kind of engineer's curse on you and the bike is sad. I'm sure someone will tell you you'll never go as fast as you could have because you decided to omit some part of a bike that an engineer felt compelled to design into it. Not that engineer's know dick about modifying a bike for specific purposes which explains why most professional racing machines have very little in common with their production counterparts after the teams are done with them. Like replacing the stock exhaust or upgrading the suspension for example, lol. Engineer's and their dumb ideas can suck a log. But that's just my opinion. Peace. lol

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Just curious, Rook... are you just letting the rear line go free with out some kind of holder by that brake disk?

Also, I don't know if it's really that 'necessary' to upgrade the clutch line in a practical sense, but it does look cool and they usually aren't very expensive. I picked up a Russel brand for around $25 off Amazon and who would flinch at that price? My rear is also Russel (same price) which I think is a very nice looking hose for the money.

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Horns...sheesh...what a useless do dad

Yes, I agree in theory but in practice, the exhaust is 10x more effective. I instinctively use a rip on the throttle to scare the crap out of wildlife. I don't think the horn is very audible with my engine running at 3500 rpm and in a parking lot, a 6k rpm bark will get everyone's attention even in the mall parking lot that covers about 1/8 square mile. The stock horn is pitiful by comparison.

Rook...you don't need that dumb plastic "stem cover" on there...you couldn't possibly get a rock tossed up into
the bearing area,or the frame casting...maybe start a hairline crack in there.

Oh for crying out loud, why not just encapsualate the whole bike in a kevlar armor shell and put doors on it?

Since then my intake air temperature has dropped dramtically due to increased flow around the airbox and I lost about an ounce of weight off the front of the bike. Another unexpected bonus is the air makes a detour up around the ram-air ducts and spirals through the George Foremans creating negative pressure at the front of the bike, pulling the bike along which equated to an increase of 20 rwhp, not including the horses freed up by the lost ounce of plastic!

I try to drop weight where ever I can and at this point, even the couple ounces here and half an ounce there has added up to a few pounds. If it works the same, I'll take the weight savings.

Those guys and ladies are world class motorcyle engineering minds, and they didn't put one single nut, bolt, washer, or do-dad on the ZX14 that doesn't serve a practical purpose.

I have no doubt you are corrct for the most part, Priv. My impression is that Kaw avoids extra "stuff" on a bike not only to streamline function but to save $$$ in production(i.e., steering damper on the Hayabusa, 6 fork clamp bolts vs 4 on the 14, gas tank hinge w/ support truss...the list is longer but I have forgotten about keeping score at this point--I just like the 14 best).

That being said, we do have a belly pan and heavy ass framework that serves very little purpose on the 14. (the busa at least has the rectifier down there which is a part that requires the protection of a belly pan.

.....and what about he foremans? Yes, we need something the complete the the fairings but those fins have no function except to look cool.

Just curious, Rook... are you just letting the rear line go free with out some kind of holder by that brake disk?

I was concerned about that as well. One of the reasons I angled the fitting to the rear caliper downward instead of closer to 12 o'clock. The downward turn takes up a lot of the slack that might wobble around up by the rotor. I still have wrench access to my rear brake caliper bolt by a hair.

There is a tab that provides a screw hole to mount the stock rear brake line retainer to the swingarm. I zip tied through that hole to loosely retain the Goodridge line. Also I rolled the line with several layers of tape (to protect against rubbing). Looks a bit cheesy but I plan to fab up a small aluminum retainer with a rubber damper (like the stock line has) that will be fastened into the same hole.

I think the brake line is pretty safe from getting caught up in rotor. It is quite stiff. There is a second hole drilled farther back on the arm that was used for retaining the OEM line. If I see any signs of abrasion to the kevlar, I will be fabbing up a second retainer for that mount.

Also, I don't know if it's really that 'necessary' to upgrade the clutch line in a practical sense, but it does look cool and they usually aren't very expensive. I picked up a Russel brand for around $25 off Amazon and who would flinch at that price?

I would go with goodridge clutch line just to complete the look and the weight loss (lol --prolly another 6 oz!) but dang, I spent ~33$ for my Goodridge kevlar rear ($60 sale price for fronts) and that was ~ half price! Oh well I like 'em. Tell you the truth, even after 27000 miles, I'm sure the OEM lines were just as good as the new Goodriges but Not as good looking. I believe the brake lines are a replacement part at some point, anyway.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/20/2011 @ 12:44 PM *

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"Those fins"...are....called..."KNEE GRIPS"....I'm not sayin don't take stuff off if ya want....I was only clownin the whole thing.My thoughts on WHY they put something in there are pure speculation...and any ideas mentioned by me are mainly in fun.They do call it a "stem cover"...not an airflow regulator.But I'd imagine they did design it to pull double duty.Most of the stuff on our bikes(IMO)has several possible uses for whatever condition you "might" be riding in(fast,slow,cruise).We all know the horn sounds....pitiful.It's entirely possible they actually designed it to help the "aftermarket" horn mfg's....you know...LOTS of people replace that funny Japanese thing.

My stuff is mostly tongue in cheek.You all outta know that by now.

I mean...just LOOK at the money spent for pipes and such.Why mess with a perfectly good BOAT ANCHOR?

They do call it a "stem cover"...not an airflow regulator.But I'd imagine they did design it to pull double duty.

...but it has a hole right in the most important part. WTF if a rock gets shot up the stem and comes out the top and kills a guy?

"Those fins"...are....called..."KNEE GRIPS"....

..maybe for NBA players. If a normal guy is gripping the fins with his knees, he has more to worry about that staying on the bike--"like what happened to my nutz?"

My stuff is mostly tongue in cheek.You all outta know that by now.

Of course I do, blue. If I sound pissed, I'm just clowning. I haven't gotten fed up with anyone yet in 3 years(not mention any names ). I'm still here.

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WHHEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!

Here's another tidbit for ya all then....how about this>>>>>>>>>>>>>the designers INTENDED to have the engine run at warmer temps(if indeed it does)to pull the maximum performance and engine life outta the old bird.I mean,afterall...the fan DOES kick in at a certain temp.Why didn't they code the ecu to have it kick on at...say...something different?PLUS....anyone here EVER heard of ANYONE'S engine vapor locking from being OVERHEATED?HHmmmmmmmm.It's a computer bike....(as some guys are finding out now)....programmed to provide a certain criteria for reliability and all that "silly" stuff.

Besides Rook...you're WAY OUTTA LINE assuming a rock is gonna somehow MIRACULOUSLY hit just right to go up that stem and hit the pilot.It can't!!!!!If you'd have bought that handy dandy stem nut cover....you'd not be concerned with a teensy tiny pebble hittin yer FULL HELMETED melon!Geez.

BTW...I kinda liked the "hairline crack" deal...sounds so.....collegiate .

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/20/2011 @ 12:52 PM *

BTW...I kinda liked the "hairline crack" deal...sounds so.....collegiate

this is what I picture when I think of hairline cracks.

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BTW...I kinda liked the "hairline crack" deal...sounds so.....collegiate

this is what I picture when I think of hairline cracks.

* Last updated by: Edgecrusher on 6/20/2011 @ 1:12 PM *

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Rook....I'm STILL waiting for some new vids of yours with yer GoPro.Man,whattaya doin?

^^Working on a sort of track day documentary one right now. Just need to add enough fluff to the vid to make it run the fgull 4 mins of the musice track I have selected. You must have seen the other track day vid i posted on the thread in general. If not, check it out. I went off the track and really could have lost it. I woulda wrecked for sure if I had been on the brake another .1/second. Scroll > 2-3 posts from bottom.
REGISTERED FOR MY FIRST TRACK DAY

Nice pic you have there Edge. oo- like that!

SO anyway--

The brake hose block takes the hose coming down from the master on the handlebar, and distributes it to the left and right brake calipers.
Hence, the stock configuration is called a 3-hose.

Actually, the block does not split the routing off in two directions. What actually happens is that the hose goes from master cyl to block to right caliper, over fender to left caliper. It is all one path. no Y in the road.

front master cylinder connection

block mount

down below block mount, right caliper connections

from over on the right side, left caliper connections

So looks like the rout for my 2 line is exactly the same as the OEM 3 line. A 3 line is really just a 2 line that someone spliced that block into so it would mount to the triple tree.....or am i not understanding something.

The SM is not very helpful on removing brakelines and Goodridge does not provide model specific instructions for install.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/20/2011 @ 3:38 PM *

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So looks like the rout for my 2 line is exactly the same as the OEM 3 line. A 3 line is really just a 2 line that someone spliced that block into so it would mount to the triple tree.....or am i not understanding something.

Yes, I was misunderstanding.

F---ing A, i swear the simpler something is the harder it is to figure out. Found this handy diagram inside the package of Goodridge lines.

AFAIC, the OEM config should be called a 1 line and the Goodridge should be called a 2 line. The OEM line is really one path. The Goodridge, you no longer have the line that winds over the back of the fender. I can see the OEM config is much safer for steering and uses a bit less brake line.

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"they put the hole right in the wrong place".....sheesh Rook...they don't WANT you to remove that plate...............JUST TO use a front PIN STAND!!!!!!!(They're very thoughtful actually) .

Hub:

Rook,
You see the long bolt for the piggy back hoses? Use that at the master for the two lines. Run the one bolt as is, then use the shorter bolt from the master onto the right caliper. Buy 7 new crush washers and you are done. Angle the lines so they don't hit the fairing with the dual lines.

Yep got them on with banjos hand tight. The bolts and washers come with the Goodridge lines and the install instructions say to use the long banjo bolt for the piggy back fittings (which i=are now up top under the master cyl instead of down onthe right cal.

Looks like there is plenty of line for full extension of forks and full swing of steering. Actually, they might have made the lines a bit shorter, maybe? It will work just fine but I do not know if I will ever get the fittings angled so that both lines have 0 contact with fairings or forks. I will be going for 0 contact with steering straight ahead since that is more or less what you have all the time unless you are maneuvering at low speed. Then I will tighten them down for good.

It will be something to keep an eye on because There there might be some rubbing. I see why Kaw made the OEM lines as they did. I wonder why the aftermarket lines were set up for a 2 line instead of staying with the OEM config?

I'll post pics of the install soon, of course.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/20/2011 @ 8:35 PM *

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"I wonder why....went with 2 line......stayed with the oem"....well,you COULD have gone stainless with the OEM configuration if ya wanted to .How much ya pay for those nifty,unique(kinda)new brake lines?Nevermind,you don't need to tell.MONEY bro!Pure and simple...Cash baby.You are now the proud owner of a totally useless upgrade to your beloved bird!!!!!! I can say that cause I've spent PLENTY on stuff I really don't need!Hell...after all the "mods" and shi&...I'm virtually BACK TO STOCK here 4 years later.I aint ditchin my lightweight pipes however,or my PCIII.OR...reinstalling my flies(that was a freebee).But the rest....total waste of cash...but it WAS fun experimenting!!!!

Okay...the throttlemiester IS a sweet investment,along with the Rifleman's throttle mod.Count the HID's in there as well....good switch with those for me anyway.Ya...and the EBC ProLite XC brake rotors and ebc pads....very worthwhile.But that's about it.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/21/2011 @ 1:13 AM *

When Roaring Toyz made my 2-line front, they a) nailed it perfectly on length and fitting angles (important), b) used highest quality ss braided and better fittings than OEM, and c) they included the 2 hole bolt, and 2 new 1 hole bolts, and the washers.

A complete kit, made to custom length order, with all parts and all of them higher quality than OEM.

And no more expensive, and more quality, than overpriced stuff with names stamped on them.

* Last updated by: privateer on 6/21/2011 @ 8:49 AM *

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with the two separate lines you get more even flow to the calipers, Rook. I was surprised to find out that all the aftermarket aren't just two lines. WTF?

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