This is like "which oil is best" stuff."better quality than OEM stuff".....IDK about that...my lower factory brake lines are doing fine.I kept the ss upper line from my LSL's on there...just because.How would you know they're "better".My baby stops pretty darn good.I can't really imagine a better stopping action than what I've got right now.Course,I'm NOT racing...so maybe they do have a different effect while heating up doing that?

Edge....the LSL's come with the three line combo...ss.Spiegler makes 3 line combos.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/21/2011 @ 2:16 PM *

It will work just fine but I do not know if I will ever get the fittings angled so that both lines have 0 contact with fairings or forks.

Spoke too soon. The fit is so perfect that I would have never guessed they would have done it without having my bike to tailor the lines to. No contact even at the ram air duct cover where the lines are less than 1/8" away. The left line touches the fork but I don't see that as a problem because it does not drag across. Even the OEM line touches the fork so I am not concerned. The left and right lines overlap right where the OEM block mount was located. Should fit right through the stem cover like the OEM line did. It is amazing how the lines rout so pefectly because of the positioning of the connectors and the curve of the kevlar line. The slight twist to the liune causes tension which holds the line in ridgidly in position without any fasteners.

ow much ya pay for those nifty,unique(kinda)new brake lines?

$33 rear, $70 front, delivered. Prolly less than the OEM rear line

You are now the proud owner of a totally useless upgrade to your beloved bird!!!!!!

I'll show you pics of the lines on the scale. I think they look cool. They might add some power to braking though as I mentioned earlier, the OEM braked were always more than enough for me.

When Roaring Toyz made my 2-line front, they a) nailed it perfectly on length and fitting angles (important), b) used highest quality ss braided and better fittings than OEM, and c) they included the 2 hole bolt, and 2 new 1 hole bolts, and the washers.

Same comments I would make about the Goodridges. They also include banjo bolts and gaskets. The stuff is so light you would think it was made of plastic---which is a small concern. I do not dare torque them to spec because the metal is so soft. They do not leak, though.

with the two separate lines you get more even flow to the calipers, Rook.

There! There is the upgrade. They are not JUST for decoration.

My baby stops pretty darn good.I can't really imagine a better stopping action than what I've got right now.

Can't deny, there is really no need to upgrade the brakes for my riding. They even seemed more than adequate for my first track excursion. Easy to lock, never experienced fade and never had a warp.

---

You know I'm just ribbin ya Rook.It's a personal deal....I get it.Stainless are trick lookin.Not so sure about the "even flow" thing.Pressure is pressure...ya know?It's there,or it isn't.The fluid is BARELY moving at all anyway.BARELY.The 3 line dealy...it's actually...one line.Master to block,block to right caliper,Caliper to left caliper...piston.I doubt there's any pressure change at all.What do I know?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/21/2011 @ 3:53 PM *

I doubt there's any pressure change at all.What do I know?

If there is any reduction from right to left caliper, it must be minuscule. Also, from an asthetics standpoint, I do rather like the over the fender arch of the OEM arrangement. The 2 line has a nice symmetry though.

Here are pics. More of lines installed on bike on the way.

OEM front 15.35 oz

OEM rear + retainers 11.65 oz

27 oz OEM

Goodridge front 4.60 oz

Goodridge rear 2.15 oz

6.75 oz

exactly 25% of the OEM brake line weight.

net weight loss: 20.75 oz ----over 1 1/4 lb.

not bad, hey?

---

---

Looks good Rook.Good job on that install and everything.

Thats how its done. The blue hose sheath is a nice touch. On mine, I just kept them clear. Too late to change it now.

Rook, you don't have to worry about setting the banjo bolts to factor torque, they should be plenty strong enough.

---

the Blue says:

Pressure is pressure...ya know?

At first I have to agree with ya and I was tempted to put the word "allegedly" in my statement. But Flow it is flow whether you talk about air or fluid, one just compresses a whole lot more than the other and imagine the thinking is is you eliminate any places where the flow has to make acute bends or fittings where the diameter changes maybe you gain a small amount of response time. But for the most part in hydraulics the basic train of thought is, if said amount of liquid is pushed out of one side, then same amount comes out the other, differences being mechanical advantage with the piston ratios.

If I understand it correctly, these particular type of lines are meant to be a weight savings upgrade and not necessarily a direct braking performance upgrade. Maybe it's as simple as by making it a two liner you subtract the added weight of one or two more fittings and the cost of the fittings and labor to install them on the line allow the manufacturer to make them cheaper and make more money.

---

Edgecrusher, you are right on the verge of why pressure isn't just pressure.

In Thermodynamics and Fluid Dynamics, we learned that pressure changes when the flow changes like in an elbow, or due to constriction or expansion of the boundary. Also, the fluid changes temperature in response to changes in flow, and this also changes pressures. We modeled flow systems and could see turbulence, and even flow reversals, in response to changes in direction, volume, rate of flow, etc.

So interesting things happen in a 2-line at the 2-hole banjo bolt, and its different from what happens at the junction block, and the flow of the cross-over hose, used in the 3-hose arrangement (OEM).

The cross-over hose is actually going to provide slightly lower pressure to the left caliper as the right caliper is activated, and increases the volume of the fluid boundary, but the system equalizes so fast it doesn't matter.

Its not enough to matter on the street, or even on the track.

I think you are right, MotoGP and WSB bikes and newer exotics all use 2-line configurations for simplicity and ease of maintenance more than anything else.

---

Looks good Rook.Good job on that install and everything.

thank you, blue. I do intend to put the inner upper fairing back in but the stem cover I think I will try leaving off. I figure I am at least as likely to get hit by a bird as something getting flung up through the fender area. Have no feathers in my helmet yet.

Rook, you don't have to worry about setting the banjo bolts to factor torque, they should be plenty strong enough.

I have not tightened them down but I won't be torquing. Even the instructions w the lines recommends that they be tightened and checked for leaks periodically. I did the rear line a few weeks ago. You can tighten by hand but I think it best to stay much lighter than the 18 ft lb spec for factory bolts..

If I understand it correctly, these particular type of lines are meant to be a weight savings upgrade and not necessarily a direct braking performance upgrade.

The kevlar w vinyl coat is exceptionally light and so is the aluminum hardware. The tubing is pretty narrow and I expect that the i.d. is quite narrow and allows less volume to flow than rubber lines. The kevlar is woven and as strong as braided steel, they claim. The strength of the tubing resists expansion under pressure like steel braided lines. Goodridge lines are used in racing. Don't know if the street performance is same better or worse. Plan to try them today. I think the real increase in braking performance comes in with good rotors and pads, hey?

Maybe it's as simple as by making it a two liner you subtract the added weight of one or two more fittings and the cost of the fittings and labor to install them on the line allow the manufacturer to make them cheaper and make more money.

There is only one less fitting with the 2 line. The length of my lines is not much dif than the length of the OEM. Seems like if you wanted to push it, you could wrap the fender real close with the OEM config and that would be a lot shorter line than a 2 line. I estimate a kevlar line set up like the OEM could be made to opperate safely and be ~30% less line. I would think the weight dif would be negligible. Prolly there is some performance advantage to 2 lines. Maybe it is just that many race apps use only one front brake and need only a single line.

---

"difference is insignificant"....ya...something like that

That is going to etch with the front end diving, so you may need more hose to let it slide. Or yank the horn off. Why do you need a horn on a bike. It won't help getting out of the way of that tank, right?

good tip on the protective shell, hub. ( )

The horn will be taken off at some point but that is going to be the first non-reversable mod I have done. I' will need to solder back if the horn goes bsck on.

---

"Squids cut wires".... ...let's get this straight...OKAY?You gonna be a .......OR, a

REAL motorcyclists DO NOT resolder CUT WIRES! (they duct tape them instead with the new stylist "colored" duct tapes).See those pesky clip connectors on my horn terminals?THAT'S a NO NO.

I'm a "sposer"....part squid,part poser.Tell ya the truth...I LOVE posing with my 14.Course,they only get like a second to get a good look... Friggin BADAZZ!

Reading his "how to ride the motorcycle" section in his owner's manual."let's see now if I have this straight...I GENTLY release the clutch lever after putting in gear....hmmm...don't say anything in here about 'this motorcycle doubles as a fighter jet when clutching aggressively".

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2011 @ 3:23 PM *

See those pesky clip connectors on my horn terminals?THAT'S a NO NO.

Guess they shake loose once in a while? What else could be a NONO about that? I think they should have used screws to connect the wires. I imagine they might be trying to discourage folks from taking the horn off.

---

Nah Bro!!!!!I was just funnin....they work great!Wouldn't have em any other way...easy peasy!Yer bike looks really nice Rook...how bout some more pics?You've done well with your bike scheme!

Even though it's a Busa...ya gotta feel his pain seein his beloved crunched like that...yeeesh.Looks like that 14 escaped unscathed .I was just lookin at MY wiring deal there...perhaps I should clean up those wires in there some...you know .

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/23/2011 @ 8:15 PM *

I think I will attach clips like you did then. That horn will be coming out.

As for pics, I need to do one last thing. Paint the grill fins blue.

I've seen the crashing busa pic a hundred x over the years. It is starting to look photoshopped to me now. Not that there has never been a crashed busa.

---

Hub suggested:

Go find some gas line hose. Cut about and inch to an inch and a half off. Slice it down the middle. Cut a second one up. Lay then over the two lines that lace in the horn area. Zip-tie the brake line so the rubber does not slide down, or, zip-tie the rubber hose to clamp down on the hose so it doesn't slide down. I'd glue it and no zip, but you call the ball.

I got some White Silicone Tubing, 5/16"ID, 1/2"OD, 3/32" Wall and its perfect because the ID is exactly the OD of my stainless steel braided brake oses. I would have liked black but couldn't find it.

Cut two equal lengths, slit them lengthwise, slipped them over the brake hoses and fed them down until some extended up a bit from "inside" the fairing, and they extend about 3" below the horn rims. So far, all I had to do was use some 4" zip ties up top, and I think being silicone they will stay closed all by themselves.

Those hoses aren't going to get abraided.

New subject, Super 8 ROCKS.

---