My previous 14R seem to grumble before clearing 3K, didn't seem to happy down low, I'm wondering if anyone that has added slipon's has noticed this go away.

Also is there any loss or heat produced without the cats and doesn't losing all that restriction cause fueling issues?

My previous 14R seem to grumble before clearing 3K

Subs still intact? Change plugs lately?

didn't seem to happy down low, I'm wondering if anyone that has added slipon's has noticed this go away.

Ever try F-1 mode? I'm not feeling anything off song in so many miles I needs slips. Maybe full slips w/header might bring on some low end grunt.

Also is there any loss or heat produced without the cats and doesn't losing all that restriction cause fueling issues?

There is so much heat needed to make HP, then if you think overheating, it brings on diminishing returns. We are well past the engine for any heat issues via cat or where the hot air should exit. Fuel issues on the pre-side; has already been established by throttle demand and the speed of the processing meeting that demand. On the post-side; the valves remaining open for that short duration, the freer flow out of the pipe, this might draw out the unspent and create less potential.

But between ears and the neighbors, stock and hot says the bike is still fast.
But if my seat of the pants had to answer, slips all the way, I'm not about to cry about a fuel issue either way. Grunt Wins... Lean is Mean.

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My gen1 never liked hard throttle below 3000 rpm ( if that's what you mean by "grumble") with stock exhaust or full system. After self tuning, it will tolerate 100% throttle quite well from 2000 rpm up. I have not tried tuning lower than 2000 rpm with 100% TP but I know Romans does this. I don't see much reason to refine that area of his map because I'm going to downshift anyway if I want to git up and go at that low of an rpm. It might be interesting to try it though.

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In other words, putting it on the dyno and getting it tuned would help a lot down low? If the bike weren't geared so tall I could live with it. I also live at 6500ft. When I rode it down to sea level it was fine but up here creates all kinds of annoying problems. Fucking thing would hardly power wheelie in first when stock.

* Last updated by: Auron on 4/19/2017 @ 9:47 PM *

WOT at low rpm like that is incredibly hard on the rotating assembly. You can tune the crack throttle some so the flies open earlier and stuff but, wot tuning at 2000 isn't good for the engine at all.

I have a tune on mine and it willingly trundles around at 2K if asked. That's all you need, a sensible flash.

I wouldn't think of WOT at 2K, but 20-40% throttle between 2250 and 3000 even in a reasonably low gear produced that grumbling Rook was able to relate to. If I could tune that out I'd be thrilled.

In other words, putting it on the dyno and getting it tuned would help a lot down low? If the bike weren't geared so tall I could live with it. I also live at 6500ft.

A dyno tune might do it since there is no ram air effect happening at that low of an rpm. Otherwise Wideband 2 and a laptop. You could tune that part of the map without breaking the law too badly.

As for gearing, put a 45 tooth on the back. It's like one gear lower. first gear is still very safe and manageable. You can still do 190 mph.

At your elevation, you might always notice better performance closer to sea level. There's not enough air up there unless you go with a turbo!

I wouldn't think of WOT at 2K, but 20-40% throttle between 2250 and 3000 even in a reasonably low gear produced that grumbling Rook was able to relate to. If I could tune that out I'd be thrilled.

You can tune for any/all TPs. I'm not anywhere near 6500 feet in elevation though.

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I'd gear it down but most people have said it screws with the KTRC on or off. That would solve all my problems but I don't think I can do that. Or just get a 14. The one I test rode was geared and tuned, it pulled much harder than my stock 14R.

* Last updated by: Auron on 4/23/2017 @ 8:18 AM *